Work starts tomorrow!

[grinder]

errr i have NO idea - im sure i dont have one

*** edit ***

im lying - yeah i do have one - no idea what it actaully does though !! it looks plastic and light - if thats the case - just leave it on

[FD3SNuttah]

i think i may as well keep it lol unless someone tells me its a load of useless stuff. i didnt work on the car today, im having a week off from it i think. today i washed it and the paint work came up pretty well.

[grinder]

after tracing the pipe - it runs to the engine via some white bulb things - no idea - but odds are you prob need it

[FD3SNuttah]

everything is now back on the engine including propshaft and new lubes / coolant / belts / filter / plugs. now all is left is to hook up the gearbox wiring (thats not too difficult) and the wiring of the last plug which doesnt fit into my ecu.

I have been researching the swap and everyone seems to have a different number on thier ecu\'s on mine it says N380 but on the pics i see for the s5 T2 ecu its a N374? whats the difference here then??  is my ecu going to be totally different?

[grinder]

you need the S5 ECU to run the car properly - the N374 - the ECU you have will be set for the S4 and auto box

unless you mean that the ECU in the S5 is a 380??

[FD3SNuttah]

Started my new job today - so didnt have much time to do the RX7 lol

The ecu i have taken from my coupe is a N380, all the pics i keep seeing of S5 ECU\'s have N374 on them?? anyway im going to soldier on with this conversion, i need to get hold of a soldering iron and some spade terminals. im off to me local B&Q

found this good for anyone doing the same swap as me.

PIN Color I/O meaninig where it goes connect to
1A L/R I Battery Backup ?? S4 FEM-02 L/R
1B B/W I MainRelay Ign F33 S4 FEM-02 B/W
1C B/R I IgnitionSwitch Crank p44;F-08 S4 FEM-02 B/W|B/L
1D Y O SelfDiag F40
1E Y/L O Malfunction indicator light p94;FI-01=gnd
1F Y/B O SelfDiag buzzer F40
1G L/Y O T coil timing F-35 S4 F31 L/Y
1H G/Y O L coil timing F-36 S4 F31(V) G/Y
1I O I test connector (green) 1pin F-41
1J BR/Y O T coil select F-35 S4 F31 Br/Y
1K G/R O Fuel pump resistor relay p44;F-60
1L L/W O A/C relay -
1M L/B I Mileage sensor no1 p48;IC-02=INSTRUMENT
1N LG/B I PS pressure switch F-48
1O L/O I A/C switch -
1P B/Y I Heat hazard sensor F-38 S4 F31(W) B/Y
1Q Y/L I clutch switch F-54 S4 F31(L) Y/L
1R G/B I neutral switch FE-03,E-07,NeutralSwitch S4 F31(G) G/B
1S R/B I fog light switch -
1T B/L I Back up light and 5th switch FE-03,E-17,OverTopSwitch
1U BR/R I mileage sensor no2 p48;IC-02=INSTRUMENT
1V L/G I T coil confirmation F-35

FEM01: its color in front and color in emission (the color you look for) and the meaning, I didint bother with cruise control, so if you want one, you need to look it up yourself. S5 ecu also checks for electric load(like defroster, lights etc) to adjust idle, I didnt connect this either because you would need to run these wires ( they are not in S4)

I also didnt correctly connect grounding circuits, I just grounded all grounds to body.

F E
L/O G/Y Cruise control unit+ break switch -> Cruise control actuator
G/W G/W Cruise control unit <-> Cruise control actuator
* *
# #
(B) (B) GND -> Windshield wiper S4 FEM-01 B
R/G W/G Headlight Relay [Z-58,62] -> ECU 3L

B/L W/L Rear window defroster switch [Z-110] -> ECU 3P
G/R Y/B Logical mode switch [Z-90] <- ECU 3O
B B Ground to ECU
* *
G G Cruise control unit <- Cruise control actuator
G/B G/B Cruise control unit <-> Cruise control actuator



FEM-02:

F E
Br Br Circuit Opening relay -> ECU 3K +Ceck connector EM30 S4 Br in Fem-02
* *
L L Wiper power -> wiper S4 FEM-01 L
* *
L/W G/Y Boost meter <- Boost sensor + ECU S4 FEM-01 L/W
# #
# #
* *
L/W L/W Wiper switch [Z-52] <- Wiper S4 FEM-01 L/W
B/W B/W Main relay ->Sol. Valve Z-37 S4 FEM-02 B/W
B/Y B/Y Main relay + coils -> Injector power S4 FEM-02 B/Y

B/Y B/Y Main relay + coils -> Injector power S4 FEM-02 B/Y
B/W B/W Main relay ->Sol. Valve Z-37 S4 FEM-02 B/W
L/R L/R Wiper switch [Z-52] <- Wiper S4 FEM-01 L/R
* *
G/R G/B
* *
G Br/B Boost meter -> Presure sensor (GND) S4 FEM-01 B/L
* *
L/Y L/Y Wiper switch [Z-52] <- Wiper S4 FEM-01 L/Y
* *
Y/W Y/W Temp gauge -> water temp sensor S4TII FEM-01 Y/B S4NA FEM-02 Y/B

[FD3SNuttah]

ok finished wiring up!!!!!!

i soldered and used some good thick insulation tape, checked it against the diagrams, i think i have done it right,tomorrow i finish work early so im hoping to double check it in daylight.

I havent hooked up the emissions part of the engine harness. - opinions please, wont need it if i plan on removing that airpump? is the emmisions essential to running of my engine?

here are some jobs left...

fit exhaust
check wiring and then check it again.
stick a bit more oil in the gearbox.
check water levels and give the engine bay final checks.
hook up the 5th switch and neutral switch wires from gearbox. (easy)
remove carpets and replace.
fit seats.
fit battery tray and battery
start up the bad boy!!!  :evillaugh  :Giggle
take rims to a refurb place and get some tyres fitted.
Book the MOT!!!

probably a couple of days work there maximum, im hoping to make a huge effort and at least have it running by tomorrow night!!!

for future reference. heres a simplified diagram i was using to wire it up. (thanks to someone on rx7club.com)

[Thud]

:god you the man.

There is no way I would ever be brave enough to take on someting as complex as this myself - and you seem to be getting through it at one hell of a rate.

Good job - keep it up, you are inspiration to us all!!

[FD3SNuttah]

Thud thanks for the kind words mate.  this was a bit of a "ghetto engine swap" i didnt change the mounts or change the clutch or any of that. just gave it a new belts and a good service.

taking an FC to bits isnt that difficult actually, seems to be very simple in how its put together,before i started i thought it would be much harder . Its just the rusty bolts that are the main ball aches.. you dont really need many tools either, just a comprehensive range socket set. I think im lucky i have some good mates who let me borrow an engine crane and gave me a hand. i was under pressure to have this car finished by the end of this week and gotta be ready for rotorstock which isnt too far away now.

[grinder]

so you reckon by the end of this week - now that is VERY impressed matey

and rotorstock - ekkk your not kidding - got my FC booked in for the MOT on tues - do i start to panic now ?? LOL

keep us upto date matey - certainly makes a good thread - i might even make it a sticky for all to see

[FD3SNuttah]

dreaded MOT eh!!! I dont know if im going to have a problem with that myself i hope not! reminds me that theres some other stuff i have to do like change the rear lights, the loom for the lights is a bit messed up tho. I still havnt got round to ordering the block off plates and dual alt pully. might hold off and see what the MOT dude thinks about the level of emissions its kicking out, Being a JDM import tho, i might be able to get away with it.

I had to keep the S4 alt, as the s5 wont fit due to a different plugs on the harness. think its a better idea as its from an auto it should kick out a little bit more juice (according to FSM). maybe a worthwhile mod along with a ignition booster?

cheers stu, dont know if the thread is worthy of being a sticky. i was planning on making a full writeup with pics for the MRC knowledge base anyhow. There is another way of doing the conversion, but that involves stripping the s5 and s4 engine to a bare block and attaching the anciliries(sp) the old loom (which will probably snap!) to the s5 engine essentially using the s4 ecu / anciliraries on the s5 block..  

I chose to keep the s5 engine together and wire in the s5 ecu into the s4 body harness as i think it takes less time.

[FD3SNuttah]

i dont understand this.

i tried to fire it up and all the warning lights shine up and everything electrical seems to work, but there is absolutly nothing when i turn the key!? the starter doesnt turn.

i have checked the wiring and i have everything connected properly.  :rolleyes: im starting to wonder why i even bothered with this project!!

[alban1973]

Nas,,  have you got the small wire (spade terminal,, thin wire) connected to the starter motor, If so is it the correct one, test it with a test light, it should have power when the key is turned in the cranking position only, Make sure you have an earth conection onto the starter for the best power.  You can alway test it by putting a wire on the starter solenoid (spade terminal)to the battery to see if the starter engages...   dont give up, you are so close...

[FD3SNuttah]

thanks for the response!!!!

had the multimeter out and im getting good voltage from the ignotion switch to ecu,. all the wires are in the right place, i havent hooked up the emissions, but doubt that is why im getting a problem.

Im with you on this alan, im thinking starter motor, im pretty sure i hooked everything up but im going to check that again, its dark now and its raining, so i will wait till the morning,.

cheers

[Brett]

Nas,

N374 = JDM TII ECU
N380 = UK TII ECU

Hope that sheds some light for you