Drop In Revs - almost stalling

Started by gadj, February 06, 2006, 08:06:05 AM

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gadj

Hi - hoping that one of you guys can shed a little light on this one.

Basically, the problem I have manifests itself in a couple of ways, both related to coming off the clutch.

1) When I slow down to go round corners, drop it into second, start to come off the clutch and the revs drop and the car tries to stall. Have to do some fancy footwork to keep it going, or go quite fast around the corner (not the prefered option in this weather)

2) Standing start at the lights or side of the road or something, come off the clutch, first gear, foot going down on the accelerator, again, revs drop and the car tries to stall. Again, either fancy footwork to get going, all rev much higher and risk wheel spin.

I don\'t think its\' the throttle position sensor, as I\'ve had that replaced. That cured the fact that my idle revs were bouncing all over the place. But not this problem

Any guru\'s out there have any idea?

Cheers

Gary

P.S. Thought I\'d mention, this is all with normal driving, nothing fast, no fast starts, just driving the same way I drive my Mazda 5 (which is incapable of going fast ;))

gsb876

May require a remap, have you have a mapping session since getting the car at all ?
"Every generation has the chance to change the world"

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gadj

Yeah, had a PowerFC installed and mapped at ReWorx.

It was them that told me my TPS was broken, but it shouldn\'t affect the mapping, which I\'ve now had replaced.

Mapping sounds a feasible suggestion though.

jasonlel

Is your AC ON? Or it doesn\'t matter....


Quote from: gadjHi - hoping that one of you guys can shed a little light on this one.

Basically, the problem I have manifests itself in a couple of ways, both related to coming off the clutch.

1) When I slow down to go round corners, drop it into second, start to come off the clutch and the revs drop and the car tries to stall. Have to do some fancy footwork to keep it going, or go quite fast around the corner (not the prefered option in this weather)

2) Standing start at the lights or side of the road or something, come off the clutch, first gear, foot going down on the accelerator, again, revs drop and the car tries to stall. Again, either fancy footwork to get going, all rev much higher and risk wheel spin.

I don\'t think its\' the throttle position sensor, as I\'ve had that replaced. That cured the fact that my idle revs were bouncing all over the place. But not this problem

Any guru\'s out there have any idea?

Cheers

Gary

P.S. Thought I\'d mention, this is all with normal driving, nothing fast, no fast starts, just driving the same way I drive my Mazda 5 (which is incapable of going fast ;))

gadj

It\'s England, it\'s February and anyone currently using their AC must have skin thicker than a Rhino\'s ;)

:)

No, it\'s not on. To be honest, I haven\'t tried it with it on. I\'m at a loss with this one. It\'s not a serious problem, but it would be nice to get it sorted.

Cheers

shaunwil

You can set the tick over limit on the pfc in the misc section under rpms. Turn it up and see if that helps as a stop gap. I\'d check for a leak in the vac-lines. Try a fresh pipe between the boost sensor and the throttle body.

Have you had the airpump removed ???

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

jasonlel

Hahaha, sorry sorry.. I\'m over at Malaysia and is HOT like oven....


Quote from: gadjIt\'s England, it\'s February and anyone currently using their AC must have skin thicker than a Rhino\'s ;)

:)

No, it\'s not on. To be honest, I haven\'t tried it with it on. I\'m at a loss with this one. It\'s not a serious problem, but it would be nice to get it sorted.

Cheers

gadj

The air pump is disconnected. Why can that cause these symptoms?

Quote from: shaunwilYou can set the tick over limit on the pfc in the misc section under rpms. Turn it up and see if that helps as a stop gap. I\'d check for a leak in the vac-lines. Try a fresh pipe between the boost sensor and the throttle body.

Have you had the airpump removed ???

Shaun

ashc

mine did that for a few months but only when the aircon was on, eventually the problem disappeared when it got serviced at reworx, they replaced the spark plugs which were severely corroded; that was the only thing i can think of regarding mine anyway.

shaunwil

I\'ve heard that removing the airpump can cause a lumpy idle on some cars. Have you had a play with the rpm settings on the pfc ? What are they set to ?

What is the vac level looking like through the pfc, is it showing a negative value on tick-over ?

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

gadj

I\'ve had the spark plugs and leads replaced a few hundred miles ago at ReWorx.

Will check the vac level - didn\'t know that was one of the readings. Will also see about reconnecting the air pump.

Cheers

shaunwil

Its the boost reading. If the boost gauge isn\'t reading right it won\'t show a vacuumm when on tick over.

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

gadj

Boost gauge is a bit jumpy on tick over - all below zero. Is that not normal?

shaunwil

showing about -450 to -650 ish ?? If so that sounds ok.

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

gadj

I\'ll have to check tomorrow when I take it out - but sounds about right.