Won\'t start

[Bobfish]

Do you have compression pulses when you turn the car over or does it just whirr? If its just whirring, your engines flooded - follow unflooding procedure. Flooding is common on new motors because they make low compresison. The popping you describe would also be indicative of flooding. So would the smoke from the exhaust.

thats why i asked that Q! I guessed he had compression pulses...

If you need help, give me a shout. Your welcome to my number if you want some gratis telephone support.

When my engine floods, i just pull out the main circuit relay, and crack the f*cker over.  It stops the injectors operating and just chucks all the fuel out of the exhaust ports. I dont take my spark plugs out or anything, thats huge hassle. If my engine floods i can un flood it in about 5 minutes as opposed to 30.

[martinFD]

Put the battery on charge at lunch, so will be giving it a try later.

Can\'t say I paid much attention to how the engine sounded.  Having not had a working engine for some 14 months, I\'ve forgotten what it\'s suppose to sound like!!

Appreciate the offer Bobfish.  :cheers

[Bobfish]

well mine sounds like an electric drill when its flooded i.e whiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiir instead of like a pulsing sound when you try and start it.

Seriously though, flush that coolant straight away get rid of that screenwash.

Also, you can test your coolant seals quite simply when its running again. Let the car cool completely, remove the coolant filler cap to release any pressure/vacuum in the coolant system.  Replace cap. Start car, leave it to run for about a minute. Shut it off. Squeeze the hose coming off the bottom of the filler neck - if its hard (i.e system has pressure in) you probably have a bad seal. To be sure, remove the cap and smell the filler neck. If you have some smoke lingering in there and it smells of exhaust, its your seals.

If not, good!! haha.

[martinFD]

I\'m happy to report that I got it running at the weekend. Basically just took a load of fuel out the map on idle. Started almost instantly. Been running well since. Got a wideband hooked up and I\'m running at 11.7-11.9 on idle which is way too rich. Unfortunately I\'m not sure how I\'m going to solve that with my fuel setup. Going to hit the Datalogit archives and see what I can dig up!

On another note, I still can\'t drive my car as the water coolant light (and totally annoying beep) always comes on. I\'ve put water in ever hole there is and it doesn\'t appear to be losing any. I\'m pretty sure there isn\'t an air lock as the heaters are still kicking out hot air. What are the chances of a faulty sensor??

[Newera]

If your car\'s running an uprated ECU it\'s possible it\'s flooded.

Clean the plugs with a decent wire brush and check the gaps before putting them back on the car.

When the (4) plugs are out, pull out the main fuse for the ignition and crank it over... You should see lots of petrol getting sprayed out.

Leave the engine with no plugs in overnight or for a day or so (In this cold weather), if you can - so the fuel can evaporate.

Get new plugs if they look old, to save yourself the bother of fouling the plugs again very soon.

If your exhaust has a sweet smell of antifreeze when it first starts, then your water seals may be faulty, but unusual on a recent rebuild, assuming the person assembling did it right.

Miguel

[FD3UK]

What fuel setup do you have? You mentioned datalogit and wideband so you will be able set up fuelling. Your idle AFR is not far off the money as 12 is about right for idle on a rotary.

If you feel that coolant is at correct level you should check coolant level switch and wiring. If you disconnect the wiring plug near the switch and use a piece of wire to short between the connector and engine block the buzzer/light should go out. This will point to a faulty switch which should be replaced.


Kev

[martinFD]

What fuel setup do you have? You mentioned datalogit and wideband so you will be able set up fuelling. Your idle AFR is not far off the money as 12 is about right for idle on a rotary.

If you feel that coolant is at correct level you should check coolant level switch and wiring. If you disconnect the wiring plug near the switch and use a piece of wire to short between the connector and engine block the buzzer/light should go out. This will point to a faulty switch which should be replaced.


Kev

Excellent, thanks for that information Kev.  Will give it a try.

I\'m running 1000cc pri/1600sec with a denso Supra TT pump and a FPR. Fuel pressure is 40psi.

[FD3UK]

Are you running PFC and Datalogit? You should take some fuelling out of the cranking map to help with your flooding problems.

Is 40psi your base fuel pressure with vacuum hose connected or disconnected?

I am running 82LB(860cc) primarys on Microtech and I find 11.5AFR is about the best for me at 1200rpm for idle.

Hope the test solves your buzzer problems

Kev

[AJAY]

Hi I Changed The Plug Leads On My Rx7 And After That It Dont Wanna Start Iv Rang Mazda Just Incase I Put Them On Wrong But It Seems That Iv Put Them On Rite The Car Just Turnes Over Pops Trys To Start For A Sec Or So Then Dies Could U Pls Help Me With Anyting U Think May Bethe Problem Thanks Aj