Cooling

[jetpilot]

Hi Guys

I have finallly got my FC back, after various mods. Mainly a front mount intercooler and custom built rad, BUT......

Although my intake temps are down, water temps are up, and i mean up a lot!!!  The rad is a proper copper core, 2" thick job with uprated 13" fan which sucks a good amount of air through so i am sure that cannot be the problem.

So where does the problem lie or possibly lie, i find it very difficult to believe its the front mount stopping the air coming through, there are too many cars running front mounts with no associated water temp probs.

I have spoken to a few of the modifiers with reference with this all with varying theories, so guys, anyone experienced the same problem or have any ideas that might help in my quest.

Thanks

[rx7veilside]

what water temps are u getting..with my front mount i see 88-89 deg on cruise etc with short boost bursts and in traffice soon rises to 94 when fans kick in..cooler weather average 85-86 deg

[jetpilot]

Sitting at 98!!!! Altough i am slighty dubious of that reading which is through the microtech as to touch the rad and pipework seems no where near that hot, i.e you can touch it!!!!

[rx7veilside]

i wld double check using an aftermarket sensor to be on the safe side..if ur running at 98 u wld burn badly by putting ur hands on the rad or pipework..sound like poss airlock

[antnicuk]

I dont have a front mount but i am using the stock rad,  when i first finished my FC Turbo II i fitted a huge 16inch electric fan that is 3300 cfm which is more than most that size and in the summer at cruise it went upto 100 degrees plus on the apexi commander and took ages to bring the temp back down on idle, Even when i had the fan on all the time so a 13 inch fan is just toooo small.   You should have 2 that size, especially with a front mount.  I experimented for a week or so and in the end i put the stock fan and cowel back and now my temps never go over 88 degrees even in the summer.  Including blatting it and it has nearly 500 fwhp.  For road use its plenty good enough.  People under estimate the stock fan as it does shift large amounts of air.   The other thing that i notice is that with the electric one temps go up and down like a yoyo, as did they on my FD,  but with the stock fan they dont move more than 2 degrees either way.

[cjr]

just wire so on when ignition on and off when ignition off. Had no issues with mine( apart from when Max just KEPT turning the boost up. Okay it might off been me)

[antnicuk]

your fan is bigger than 13 inch isnt it chris?

[cjr]

No 12" do have two though. but I did have a front mount!

[antnicuk]

two 12\'s is a lot more than one 13,  and he has a front mount..
and whats this........ Did have a front mount?

[cjr]

cooling is a major issue with the rotary. Look at the Fd it has two fans. The Fc has one but it is heavily ducted does that give any suggestions. The did have ment atm it is a i/c but right at the back off the car!

[jetpilot]

Thanks guys, have been reading a fair bit about cooling on the american FC forums and it seems the key word is, ducting. I suppose looking at the front of the FC you can see what they mean, there really is no place for the air to enter, especially if you have a fmic. So before the GP kit goes on, i shall have a play with some ducts in the original bumper to see if they help.
Thanks

[antnicuk]

is your fan just stuck straight to the rad cors or does it have a cowel?  I think the Stock set up works so well because of the cowling, as it ensures that the fan pulls air through the whole of the rad, not just the small part that the fan is stuck to. If you have your fan attached to the rad with no cowling, then only a 13inch diameter circle of the rad is cooling with the fan,  and the centre 4 inches of that wont be doing anything either as its the fan motor.
Speak to T2REW, he had cooling problems on his T2.   He had two electric fans on it. He sorted it by moving his front mount.