TII - Comments please

[Ricco_04]

Cool thanks guys.

I remember reading about how they shouldnt be polished because that creates resistance by not being able to \'trap\' air in the rougher areas and using that as a zero resistance bed for the incoming charge to travel on - wether having a rough cast or a slightly rough gas flowed/port matched is better in this instance I would have thought it better to do the work - so I think I will get it done.

You can see a lip on the port where the plates are \'stuck\' together and thats probably on every port face and when done in conjunction with the UIM & LIM should start to make a difference.  Sounds silly but im only doing this because it\'s just how I think it should be done.

[antnicuk]

some say that you dont want it too smooth but others ake them smooth.  I dont think its an argument that will ever be settled.

Some really good work you are doing there,  very pain staking.

[Grizzly]

I also think peoples interpretation of a polished runner differs too. Because its a Casting often people see Smooth as Polished, i personally see anything less than 80grit scratches as polished (doesn\'t really have to have a luster) but when you here "Ported and Polished" it often means the Runner has been blended into the Port work. I would agree with you that Flash marks are not supposed to be there, But again the better the Swirl effect in the runner the better the Fuel Atomization but in turn it slows the air speed.

[Ricco_04]

some say that you dont want it too smooth but others ake them smooth.  I dont think its an argument that will ever be settled.

Some really good work you are doing there,  very pain staking.

Cheers fella

Well I have done them all, didnt seem a chore but when you look at your watch and think WTF where did the time go! :Giggle

Didnt go mad with them, took off all the rough casting - didnt worry too much about getting a really smooth finish but seeing how much bits where pertruding and overlapping I have to say that this has got to be an improvement

Guess the next thing is to finish assembling the short block now

I also think peoples interpretation of a polished runner differs too. Because its a Casting often people see Smooth as Polished, i personally see anything less than 80grit scratches as polished (doesn\'t really have to have a luster)

Yeah see what your saying. The Fireblade in my Westfield had been gas flowed - its not super smooth but it aint rough either so I have tried to go the same, may have gone slightly smoother.

I\'ll upload the pictures and hope you think there ok :Giggle

[Ricco_04]

Doh, kinda feel a little silly asking this. Was laying all the stuff out ready to put the engine together when I remembered that when I got the plates lapped, Pip took out the small dowles and I cant think where they go.

They are the 10mm long ones (4 of them) they go somewhere in the irons but I just cant think where :spank

Can anyone learn me please! :cheers

[t2rew]

end plate, face that mounts the gearbox. maybe

[Ricco_04]

lol yeah I think I have it.  There seems to be 2 available openings in both front and rear plates, which makes sence.  I gave Pip a quick buzz (as he got the plates lapped for me) but living in the sticks I had no signal and missed his call back! :spank

[t2rew]

lol yeah I think I have it.  There seems to be 2 available openings  :spank

go with the pink:Giggle

[Ricco_04]

LMAO! :Laugh

(didnt even realise I had typed that! :spank)

[antnicuk]

are they about 10mm wide (diameter)?,  if so, they are the rear plate ones that go into the gear box as T2REW says but you only have 2.

[Ricco_04]

Yeah those sound like the blighters - they have threads in too I\'ll get those 2 put in  - thank you both

So wonder why I have 4 then?!  (Maybe chuck the other two into the exhaust ports :rollin)

[Ricco_04]

Ok ports came up not too bad at all and glad I did them in the end (took a lot of time though!)




I also got round to dismembering the rear subframe.  Dropped the whole lot, removed suspension arms complete with callipers,

hubs, discs & halfshaft\'s.





I bagged up all the drop links, nuts bolts ya da and also the callipers.  However, I\'m stuck with removing the a-arms from

the uprights.  I have taken out the 2 main bolt\'s but this fella wont shift on either assembly.  I have used penetrating oil (oooh er!!) over a few days, cleaned up the end from dirt/rust/grome and also got the ol impact wrench on there but no joy. Only thing else I can think of is to get some heat into it (have to pick up another though as I ran out grrr)

Any suggestions?? :confused





Thanks for looking

[pdtaylor18]

That one is a pig at the best of times.  only apply the heat at the thread end and see what happens. Mine were corroded all the way around the bolt plain shank as well, in the end it was that corroded that It took a 3 foot bar to crack it and then I had to use it most of the way. Got another from one of my scrap cars and that came out fairly easy. Seams they never really sealed it properly and once 20 odd years of water and salt gets in....well the result is what you have.

[Ricco_04]

Mine were corroded all the way around the bolt plain shank as well, in the end it was that corroded that It took a 3 foot bar to crack it and then I had to use it most of the way. Got another from one of my scrap cars and that came out fairly easy. Seams they never really sealed it properly and once 20 odd years of water and salt gets in....well the result is what you have.

Dam thats not what I wanted to hear! :Giggle  Best get off and buy some more gass and a better torque socket

I have a stockpile of bits I want shotblasted and powdercoated, just trying to add these bits to go with.  I cant decide on a colour.  First I was just going to have black but then I thought red like some of the Mazdaspeed stuff and then dark blues etc etc.  I do like the colour of the \'Super Now\' stuff though

[Ricco_04]

Still have some to upload but thought I would put together what I have for the moment.

A arms removed from rear suspension, added to the pile of metal which is to be blasted and powdercoated (thanks for the advice with this one :wiggle) :

Onto the engine!

The old motor when stripped down was not in the best of stated (to be expected with over 116,000 miles on it!)  So After checking all the plates I was surprsed to find only 1 of them was slightly out of tolerence in just 1 measurement!

Decided to have the plate lapped and while that was being done I thought get the rest done!  So all 4 plates came back looking like new!     To complement this I also brought 2 brand new TII rotorhousings :



First thing to do was pre-assemble the rotors :



In each rotor will go all of these springs, seals, plugs etc :



With the front plate on the stand next place the front rotor onto the plate and the front rotor housing over the top .  Remove the front corner seals, insert the apex seals and springs and pop the plugs back.







On with the eccentric shaft, followed by the intermediate plate, o rings and dowles :



Little later on and looks like this :



Rear plate is popped on top and is joined with the rear stationary gear complete with new seal and o ring :





Needle bearings, plates, covers and counterweight on :



Oil pump too :



Also key, sprokets and chain



I have oiled where necessary, taped up the holes and bagged the engine for now.  Few things to finish off first before the car is ready to accept the engine but its done for now!

Thanks for looking

Ricco