Nightmare!

[Martiny]

What do you mean by "ditch the system"? Some people go for a single turbo, but thats a lot of money, you will need to replace the ECU ( Computer) and thats expensive.

One of the things you can do to simplify the "rats nest" of solenoids and tubes is to modify ( and disbale) the double throttle system. I was just pointing out that if you do that, then drive the car very carefully until its fully warmed up. I suppose driving it hard without the engine warm wouldnt really break anything, but it would certainly shorten the life of the engine, ( in my humble opinion).

[D3S]

Sorry mate, what i meant was just ditch the double throttle control, i can then remove and free up some of the nest. Also by doing that and me starting again with the nest a replumbing i can check over what i have done and cross fingers should run again properly.

Dont worry about it giving it some, i am so predantic about it, leave it warm up for awhile and never push for a good 15 mins.

So do you think that would be a worthwhile thing to do? as i will be look for alot more power eventually.

Cheers

Gav

[FD3Typer2]

A Useful diagram for fully simplified sequentials. This is what I did to mine and it makes things much easier. I don\'t care much for emissions!

My rat\'s nest http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17288

[D3S]

Oh mate that is well handy, that is just what i am looking for, so if i follow this i should be back on track, any more advantages to it? beside it being more simple?

Did you change any valves? also what did you do with the spare plugs just leave them loose?

And i notice that on the UIM you have only twp pipes going in, all others are blocked off i take it?

Also on the original diagram, you look at the yellow on top of the Y pipe on the turbos, it used to go back into the pressure chamber, is it just blanked now?

One last thing to ask, all the other crap in there is just for emission control?

Cheers

Gav

[FD3Typer2]

No probs mate, I have just been through what you are doing and hope it helps!

My check valves were knackered, one was blocked and the othere were slow to react.

If you have a stock ECU you will have to use resistors to replace the solenoids, if you have an Apexi you can leave them unplugged.

Yes the line you mention can be capped off.

Al the unused nipples can be capped off. I had a lot of trouble finding things to cap these off.

The other crap is for emissions, except for the FPR solenoid. I changed my secondary fuel rail, and therefore used an aftermarket FPR. That allowed me to dump the solenoid \'cos i just used a straight line off the manifold.


A few pointers:

Buy, borrow or steal a Mityvac. It\'s very very useful for troubleshooting and checking check valves, solenoids and different parts of the system.

Use this procedure to check solenoids.  

http://www.rx7.voodoobox.net/   -->  How To --> Solenoid check

 The \'listen for click\' or \'blow through\' check is not reliable. All mine passed the simple checks, but the solenoids get \'sluggish\' at higher boost levels. ie It might be fine at 9psi, and no good at 10, or fine at 10psi but no good at 15psi (Which is what I want    )

I bought my check valves from Dale Clark http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=391766&highlight=viton+check

they were dirt cheap and hopefully will hold up better than the stock ones as they are made of Viton. £15 for a second hand stocker is not worth it in my opinion.

If you live near to me you can borrow my Mityvac, I live in Romford.

[D3S]

Hi mate,

Well its the way forward i think, there is less chance of the system screwing again if i do this.

I bought my valves from the same Chap, they seem alot better than stockers. I checked one of my oe valves and it hardly moved and another kept sticking.

I will be running a stock ecu for a few months, so i will have to get some resistors, somewhere like maplin should sell those?
Thing i am worried about is the FPR as i am still retaining that for now, so how do i go about doing that and all the pipe work?

Well if its chelmsford essex was then im not that far, i live about 15 mins outside watford and work in london, if your want you can help me lol (joke)

I will probably be asking a few questions to be honest i hope you dont mind?, i mean its fairly straight forward to do, following the diagram and pointers.

Oh one last thing where did you get the 5 way nylon pipe connetors and T connectors?

Cheers

Gav

[Martiny]

Hey FD3, thanks for that link about the valves.

I am not sure about mine, so I have ordered a set and will replace mine. I have a different problem, I get only 7 psi on secondary.

[FD3Typer2]

D3S, I got my Ts from Burton Power on the A12, but they are available in most performance shops. If you got questions ask away! It is good to have this kind of info on the forum.

Martiny, not sure about the 7psi. Perhaps a pill is missing, as that is the pressure of the wastegate spring.

[D3S]

Cool man, well what i have done for now is remove the double throttle and replace all the vacume hoses hoping that will sort it. then when i start uprating things i will simplyfy it. i mean i am not changing anything from before so the car should work like it did i hope lol

Gav

[D3S]

Right now i am lost, i removed the double throttle, plugged the holes etc etc, replaced all the vacume hoses and still i am only getting 0.5 bar boost?! i am really confused i have even replaced the solonoids for the turbo control and still it does this...good thing is it idles ok now, so suggests there isnt any major boost leaks.

Gav

[FD3Typer2]

When you say \'Ditch the double throttle\' what exactly have you removed?

Just the solenoid, or the butterflies too.

To disable the DT you could cap the vac line into the DT actuator on the UIM, remove the solenoid and cap the lines or take out all the butterflies. Either way, if your car idles and boosts, maybe it\'s a fault somewhere else in the system. 0.5 bar is about 7psi, which is also the weight of the wastegate spring. Perhaps you left out a pill?

Don\'t worry, it can\'t be anything you a bit of troubleshooting won\'t fix.

[D3S]

Hi,

Well i removed the butterflys, no point having those if your removing the double throttle lol. Anyway the butterflys went, vac hoses and solonoid, i used a resistor on the solonoid plug so it wouldnt flash up an error code. I pluged up all the spare holes left open.

I checked all the diagrams time and timea gain and the hoses are all in the right place, all pills are in the right area and nothing has been left out. its really odd. Maybe somewhere else? clogged cat?

Did you find when you removed your double throttle that the car wasnt as aggresive on boost, more linear? as when i 1st took it out, it ran pretty well hitting .07 bar then up to 0.9 bar and back to 8 on the 2nd turbo. I wonder if its anything to do with the TPS if its been knocked?

Damn thing is bugging me now lol

Gav

[FD3Typer2]

I think the DT removal has little or no effect on performance. As for the TPS, your idle would probably be off/high.

What\'s your boost pattern? 0.5-0.45-0.5 ?

You mention that it was running 0.7-0.9-0.8 when you first had it running, is that correct? That boost pattern looks abnormal, and also points to a pre-spool area problem.

Perhaps it\'s not the solenoids or hoses but the arm adjustment on one of the actuators. The Dave Vanditmars writeup helps a lot for checking this out.

Clear up the questions above and also give us an idea of what you did to check the bits and pieces you have touched. (Solenoids, check valves etc)

[D3S]

Well the boost patern now is 0.5-0.45-0.5bar but when i first took it out it was hitting 0.7-0.9-0.8 not normal but better than 0.5 but what was wierd was you couldnt really feel the change over on the 2nd turbo but was getting a decent amount of boost.

Anyway i went over time and time again checking i had everything in the right place, i replaced the turbo pre control and wastegate control and charge control solonoid along with the vac hoses and all new check valves no hoses were trapped so basically it is back to how it was. I did an ecu reset but that didnt make any difference.

have you got a link to The Dave Vanditmars write ups? maybe it is an actuator, worth looking.

Cheers

Gavin

[FD3Typer2]

Here is the link: http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/rx7stuff.htm