Boost problem - anyone know where solenoids are?

Started by boltoa, August 05, 2003, 09:57:16 AM

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boltoa

Finally got round to fitting a boost gauge at the weekend (1994 Type R with twin cone induction kit, big intercooler, pipework, and some other bits), and discovered my boost pattern was a rather unhealthy 10-5-6 instead of the textbook 10-8-10. Found a great resource on boost problems here, and it says the most likely cause of this particular pattern is that the connectors to the wastegate and turbo pre-control solenoids have been swapped over. Unfortunately, despite various blown up pictures, I\'m not sure where to find these and don\'t want to start dismantling half my engine bay if they\'re actually fairly accessible. Can anybody point me in the right direction?

Better still, I\'ll attach a picture of my engine bay and someone could stick a big red arrow on it and post it back :).

Thanks

Andrew

DRAGON

behind the alternator is a little plastic tank and behind and to the left of that is two solenoids and two electrical connectors. Try swapping them round.

boltoa

But do I have to take the vacuum tank and/or intercooler piping off to get to these? If I have to take the vacuum tank off, then the strut brace will also have to come off :(.

Ta, Andrew

DRAGON

just do it\'s easy. Go slow and you wont get confused. ;)

Fish

Also might be worth having a sharp knife to hand, some of the solenoids become brittel and can snap off.

Just do one at a time.

Dan

rxangus

The one on the right should have a white dot on it if viewed from the front of the car.

I have the same problem as you and am off to WGT next week to try and get it fixed.

Angus
Smell my Optimax!

iaint

Hi Andrew,

I had a similar problem (same boost pattern) that turned out to be a perished vacuum hose that goes downwards from the Boost Chamber.

It wasn\'t a big job for Geff (re:worx) to fix it but I\'d have had no clue where to start looking.

Iain

"The way to do is to be." - Lao Tzu

boltoa

Fixed this at the weekend - you can just about see the connectors with the pressure tank on, but only just. Took off the strut brace and the pressure tank, and there they were - pair of connectors with the dotted one on the LEFT. Swapped them over, refitted stuff, and hey presto - new car :3gears-rh. Didn\'t feel particularly slouchy before, but now pulls so much harder. Lovely :D. Total time to fix - about 15 mins :).

Ta for all the advice.

Andrew

BlitzBoy

ohhh errr, sounds like a problem I\'ve got at the mo, my car was running safty boost 4 psi until it started to run fine early this week coz of the temp falling.
But reading this my boost pattern is all wrong! mine does 8-5-8
Do you reckon mine is the same boost solenoid problem of being swapped over incorrectly. I tried to fix a manual boost controller as to Roninettes web site instructiions to raise it to 10 psi, but no matter how much I turned the screw in or out , the boost pattern will stay the same it wont rise or fall!!!
weird!!!!1
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

boltoa

Definitely not the same problem - the pattern for solenoid reversal is definitely something like 10-5-6. From reading various websites, consistently low boost is most likely to be pre-cat failure blocking the exhaust, but there are many other possibilities. Does your boost tail off towards the redline or does it stay at 8psi all the way up? If it tails off, I\'d definitely check out your cats first...

Andrew

BlitzBoy

na it remains strong until redline doesnt tail off at all.
It seems strange that I cannot lower boost with the controller though.
Boltoa your forum name sames familiar, did you own a 300zx?
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

boltoa

No, never had a 300ZX. Had Scooby, Evo6, Twin-engine Westfield, Legacy GTB, and I use boltoa or boltona on all their owners club forums though :).

I suggest you have a look at the site I linked to in my top message and see if it helps, if you haven\'t done already. From memory, it could also be that you\'ve lost your restrictor pills in the actuator pipework. But that\'s yet another guess. Could be a tough one :(.

Andrew

Fish

Andrew, are you the Andrew Bolton who when coming around cranners in a black Evo 6 had a silver scooby spinning in front of you a couple of years ago?

Dan

Archbish

Check your intercooler hoses - if one is leaking, that could be an issue.

Also, the intake hose can collapse from the turbo\'s sucking in sooo much air - whip it off for one run and see if that makes a difference...
Everyone wants to be like ArchBish,
Cos the Bish is never glum.
Its hard to be unhappy
when the sun shines out your bum

BlitzBoy

yep you used to post on the 300zx forum, I remember you talking about your twin engined westfield, I used to have a 300zx.
But the lightweight of the rx appealed to me with the pontential of lower 0-60 and 0-100 when modded.
Cool will check out links
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark