Well that was fun...NOT

Started by davegttph1, July 09, 2005, 03:53:37 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

davegttph1

Just spent the last 3 hours in the boiling sun changing spark plugs, 4 poxy spark plugs and 3 hours :mad: ohh well must admit the car feels like it has a brand new engine in it.... smoother, quicker, quieter.. allround a good £60 spent :)

reckon if I had a ratchet I could have done it in an hour but I had a metal cross bar that I had to fook about with constantly... quarter of a turn at the most on each plug... seemed to take forever.


All that effort for spark plugs, hate to think what a more complex job on the rex would be like ;)

Ohh well just took it for a test drive and rented out assault on precient 13... time to close the curtains and chill with a beer or 2  :cheers

goose

Tell me about it. Did you do it from below the car?

I\'ve found a good source for spark plugs though - the local motor factors does 9s for 7 quid each - how does that compare to your source?

BlitzBoy

Get yourself a decent 3/4 ratchet (about £20) and spark plug socket next time, jack the car up and do it from underneath, takes me 20 mins max
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

davegttph1

no did it from above the car... I payed £12 a plug from WGT ordered friday dinner time and arrived at 9:30 this morning :D total cost was £63 :eek: for spark plugs I found that rather steep...

Blitzboy, I broke my ratchet, will be buying another soon, I do already have a spark plug socket... just had to use a metal bar to turn it rather than the ratchet, was a nightmare. Will defo have a decent ratchet for the next job though... just a tad skint at the mo, bee a heavy month....

ohh wll Imhappy with the overall effect its had on the car, next job. an oil change...... co-incidently what oil do I put in these beasts? anything I can pick up from halfords or do I have to order it specially?

cheers

shaunwil

I\'ve just swapped the oil over and stuck castrol gtx mineral in. Spark plugs are my next job ! Quoted about 40 quid from local motor factors for the platinum plugs !
Did you use 7\'s and 9\'s ??? Looks like it will need jacking up again !

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

shaunwil

Oh and castrol was 15 quid for 5 litres from halfords too and the filter was even listed in the book at my local motor factors ! Seemed to only need about 4.5l to top it back up, read that most of the oil stays in the coolers !

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

goose

Check out the stickys regarding oil. You\'ll be glad to know a champion filter is around 7 quid!

davegttph1

no used 9\'s all round :) thats what came out too....

oil.. seems a bit cheap??? Im used to the castrol RS stuff for turbo cars... £30+ is that right?

grinder

you want NO synthetic oil ( spellling )

mineral oil is best - i use castrol gtx - and i paid £10 for 5 litres last year

if you are chaning the oil - could be worth investing in an oil drain tap !!

have a look for a thread called "best $27.95 you will spend"


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

Tintin

You\'ll get quicker with more practise , can do the oil , filter and plugs in a hour or so now ,

do the plugs from underneath its much easier i find , you need to go under to drain the oil anyway , undo the sump plug ( or better get a drain valve ) change the plugs while it drains , drop it down to get all the oils out , swap filter , stop for a brew , jack it back up again , pop the sump plug in , fill it and your done  :D

You\'ll get plenty of practise doing the plugs if you flood the engine a couple of times

Next service I\'m doing coolant aswell , never done it before on the rex any tips ???


Finally tuned - 317.3rwhp :burnout (thats 374.4fwhp for those who like bigger numbers)

12.8@110.64 at RS4:Thumbs-up

shaunwil

Coolant........... Easy to take out, alot harder to put back in ! Swapped it over when i moved my rad !

Basically there is a drain plug on the bottom of the rad for removal, plus another on the over flow tank (i think).

You have to remove the pipe connected to the throttle body to prevent an air lock as you are filling it back up. Initially fill the system up with both the rad and ast cap off. Fill it up until the ast is almost full. Put the ast cap back on and then carry on filling until the coolant is trying to come out of the back pipe that was disconected. You can then either blow into the filling point and push all the air out of the back pipe and reconnect or use a bottle to make a head of water above the level of the back pipe. Carry on filling the coolant up slowly until the cap is full. Check the level on the overflow and top it up to suit (slowly to prevent air lock). Fire the car up and watch the water temp. If alarm goes off check shut off imediately and check levels once cold. Recheck levels for the next few days !

Bit harder to do than the oil. I think i haven\'t missed anything out ! about 2 months since i did it !

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

cjr

coolant there is a drain plug for the engine just above the oil level sender (below spark plugs) Plugs just practice
A small turbo

davegttph1

thanks for the tips, well Im quite relieved about the oil being cheap, thought these we\'re expensive cars to run ;) looks like its evening itself out to me :D Anyhow, like you say I think it will get easier like you say, just getting your way around the car... with mine being low on the sideskirts and bumpers (veilside kit) and reading about how dodgy these cars can be when jacking them up I was put off that idea, to be fair if I buy a ratchet I thinnk the plugs will be done with some ease.... the hardest and fiddliest part was refitting the intake pipe... there is a triangle rubber washed which was a beatch to fit and hold in place whilst refitting the pipe.

I\'ll change the oil this week then, working on my other car 2moz though so I\'ll see how much time I have :)

shaunwil

I\'ve lately been using the temp jack on a block to lift the car just enough to get a block under the tyre to make it high enough for the main jack to do the main lift. God i wish we had a pit in the garage !

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

banned advertiser

Quote from: grinderyou want NO synthetic oil ( spellling )

mineral oil is best - i use castrol gtx - and i paid £10 for 5 litres last year

if you are chaning the oil - could be worth investing in an oil drain tap !!

have a look for a thread called "best $27.95 you will spend"

Not strictly true, there are several cars running  fully synthetic double ester oil, with some beifits.