Pre Cat Decat - Errr HOW ??

Started by grinder, June 23, 2005, 10:58:17 PM

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kev-yorks

You just need a stud extractor theres plenty left there to work with. Give the area around the stud a warm with a blow torch, its not as good as oxy/acetalene but should still do the job. If you\'ve not got or can get  a decent stud extractor PM your address and i\'ll post one to you.
Kevin
Regards Kevin

grinder



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MikeLMR

Looks like you have plenty to go at ... should come off with a little persuasion. If you have a mig welder weld a large nut to the stud an M10 or somthing like that and put lots of heat into it, not only will you have a nice new nut to swing on but you have also put a sh1t load of heat into that stud

then If the threads are fkd you could always drill them out to a clearance hole and replace them with a bolt, nut and lock washer (much nicer than a stud when working on an exhaust ... snapped bolt = no worries)  best check there is room to do that first though (looks alright on the photos tho\')

Good luck !

shaunwil

Blimey, sorry to see you\'re having a mare with the exhaust. If you want a fatty to pop round and swing on it then im your man ! (seriously just say and i\'ll come and have a play  :wiggle ). Want to see you at the next nw meet !

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

Grizzly

#19
Yeh, LOTS of heat. But try not to heat the Stud up too much you want the Exhaust part as hot as poss.

If it was me i\'d be going with Mike, get a size bigger nut and weld it on the Stud (give it some juce on the welder) the get a blow torch on the flange next to the stud for a good ten minutes so it is HOT!! then give the Nut some stick. If it dont move it never will and you may have to drill it out.

MikeLMR

heating the stud and letting it cool works well too

Grizzly

Yep it expands braking the rust etc. But what i\'m saying is don\'t try it when its still hot as the Stud will be still expanded making it tighter still?

MikeLMR

and a lot more likely to break ... steel looses a lot of its strength at those sort of temperatures.

antnicuk

I know what your going through,  i had exactly the same problems,  so much so, u ended up making a complete new system, including the down pipe,  which i am glad about now, but i was intending to use the existing exhaust to save money and time....

I have the whole exhaust if anybody is interested,  its not a standard one and has been on the car a while so is showing signs of rust,  it has two back boxes with chrome tail pipes,  2 1/4 inch rear section pipe with 2 3/4 mid box, the down pipe is also there which just under 3 inch and bolts to the stock turbo, so there are no cats in it. Its not very noisy as the back boxes are proper thick ones. Dont think about it if you are on a weight saving mission,  it will fit straight on, and i\'m only going to throw it away.  If someone wants to collect they are welcome to it.  There were some holes in it which were fully welded just before i took it off the car. Its free to anyone who can collect....
400 BHP - 650 KG\'s = 616 BHP Per Ton of Rotary Power

That\'s the way to do it! :Thumbsup!


grinder

why are you so bloody far away- gutted :(

well i think the exhaust defo needs to come off

im not taking a welder / blow torch to it under the car

i had a look tonight - and i must say its a cracking system - and really well fitted

thats the main point - there is little play in the rubber hangers - so it will certainly be a challenge to get them off - or put them back on

i think its gonna be a lot easier to play with the exhaust on the patio !!

so....

1 - remove exhaust
2 - weld nut on stud
3 - heat flange ( not stud )
4 - give it some stick
5 - if this fails use the extractors that are in the post
6 - refit exhaust
7 - sit back with a cold one and admire work

sound about right to you guys ??

why is this car so problematic - maybe its just me eh !! ??

and shaun - if you fancy helping - you know where i am !!

thanks chaps

Stu


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

colinrx7surrey

liking plan number 7--sounds good!!!!best of luck with it matey :guinness
So much BHP........and no where to gallop!!!!!

Grizzly

#26
Just add one bit. You want a BIG nut 17mm or somthing like that. Also grind the end of the stud so its nice and clean, Then a good earth as close to the Stud as poss (give that a clean too), if the Nuts Galv\'d you will need to clean some of it off the threads. Clean is GOOD!! ;)

And of course lots of JUICE!!!!!:evillaugh

Chris

Brett

Tony, where abouts in essex are you mate?  I think I could find a loving home for your exhaust :)
Brap Brap Brap Brap

Moonwrap

Quote from: grinderwhy are you so bloody far away- gutted :(

well i think the exhaust defo needs to come off

im not taking a welder / blow torch to it under the car

i had a look tonight - and i must say its a cracking system - and really well fitted

thats the main point - there is little play in the rubber hangers - so it will certainly be a challenge to get them off - or put them back on

i think its gonna be a lot easier to play with the exhaust on the patio !!

so....

1 - remove exhaust
2 - weld nut on stud
3 - heat flange ( not stud )
4 - give it some stick
5 - if this fails use the extractors that are in the post
6 - refit exhaust
7 - sit back with a cold one and admire work

sound about right to you guys ??

why is this car so problematic - maybe its just me eh !! ??

and shaun - if you fancy helping - you know where i am !!

thanks chaps

Stu

Well I think you\'ve had some sound advice here from everyone :)

It\'s not just you Stu, it\'s the same with ANY car, especially when they\'re 15 years old :D  Been there too many times :rollin: - same fear everytime a bolt is involved. :( If all else fails just carefully drill it (it\'s always just one) and replace!

For the rubber rings - try a bit of washing up liquid - works a treat :D

....Dare I ask is this a permanent de cat solution?  You don\'t have to put it back on before the next MOT do you? :eek:  

Either ways, if you haven\'t already, invest in a nice tub of Copper grease and smear the bolts thread lightly with it, if you ever think you\'ll need to undo - works a treat :D (Not that it might make much difference on an exhaust as it get\'s so hot there - but you\'ll get a lovely singeing smell for a few drives! LOL :D)

Good luck!
Lynn
:wave:
1981 MKII  323 (one of the 1st 500) (UK)
1985 MKIII RX7 (UK)
1989 MKIV RX7 Sports Coupe EGI (UK)
1989 MKV  RX7 Savanna TII Cabriolet (JDM)
1995 MX-6 2.5 V6 (UK)

I\'ve been amazed at a Mazda and it stuck! ;)

antnicuk

The workshop is in harlow.
Just off Edinburgh Way.  As i said its not in tip top condition but it seems a waste to sling it.
400 BHP - 650 KG\'s = 616 BHP Per Ton of Rotary Power

That\'s the way to do it! :Thumbsup!