max power on standard parts

Started by crispyj, April 17, 2005, 04:33:20 PM

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crispyj

Can anyone help?

I am after some information about tuning an 1989 turbo II convertible. Mainly how much power can I run on an almost standard setup?

This is a list of what has been done so far

Uprated Cone filter
FMIC
Uprated zorst ( No CAT )

What is the Max boost a standard engine can take?  Without taking fueling constraints in to account.

Thanks Crispyj

crispyj

Somebody must be running a Turbo II on more boost than standard !!!!!

TRex

Hi dude,,

 Information on this site is like getting a blind fish to sing....

 I\'ll try to share my limited knowledge as I too am learing quickly on these machines.

 What you have at the moment with those mods is the best start possible.
 Without a boost controller the car should be boosting between 10-12 psi, but you will/should experience boost/fuel cut by 9psi which will limit you getting to 10-12 psi.
 With a Fuel Cut Defencer you will/should be deffo boosting near 12psi,,,,,,,,,,,
 This is fine for stock fuel system and everything else especially with up rated cooling from the FMIC.

 With regard to BHp figures, these will be guessing as it can vary with condition of engine and lots others.. rough guess with a FCD installed and hitting near 12psi should easily be around 250 bhp!

 The standard Turbo can run 14psi safely with the right mods,, mainly fueling increases.
 I would suggest getting a proper electronic Boost controller and either get a wideband or invest in an aftermarket ECU as next steps.  
 This will tell/guide you as to whats happening to the engine, fueling etc and then you can work from there.
 Because at 12-14psi you are near the limits.

 Also make sure you are running decent S/Plugs too......

 Hope this helps dude............ :)
TRex the Ecowarrior - Recycling exhaust gas and using it to create energy. Just doing my bit

sadgoth

the problem with increasing boost on stock fueling and ECU is the risk of running lean on a rotary is very high. The TII runs richer than the FD as stock so there is a bit more scope for tweaks but not too much.

With an FMIC, induction and exhaust you are going to risk leaning the engine out. You should be looking to upgrade your injectors, fuel pump and ECU, after that the next limiting factor would be the actual ports on the block itself, but in your current setup I would definatly NOT risk increasing the boost!
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

TRex

To follow on what Mark said and I should of mentioned...

 Get a proper Boost gauge first if you can\'t get hold of a controller to \'control\' the boost.........
 This is important as I said you need first of all to see whats happening before you do anything otherwise you are working blind and by risk/guess.

 But I am positive with what you have you are boosting at least 10psi now..... \'you must be getting Boost Cut though!\'

 BTW I had near exactly the same set up(with FCD) and with an air to fuel gauge the lot, and all readings were fine right through, boost was steady 11 psi with no controller!
 The car is still running strong....................
TRex the Ecowarrior - Recycling exhaust gas and using it to create energy. Just doing my bit

sadgoth

I tend to work on the principle that it\'s better to err on the side of caution (especially as I\'ve recently had this engine built!)

My setup is running lean AFR readings at 2600-3200 (max torque when you have a 1/2 bridge running a stock turbo!) I\'m getting 12.7 ish but it drops back to 10.1 from 6000 to the redline! My next stage is to uprate the fuelling and finally install the Microtec ECU! But in my current state of tune I wouldn\'t increase boost!
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

TRex

Mark

 Half Bridge... :eek:  nice.....
 What injectors are you running presently? actually what \'s your present spec? (if you don\'t mind)

 "CRISPYJ", sorry for diverting here dude... :bandit
TRex the Ecowarrior - Recycling exhaust gas and using it to create energy. Just doing my bit

sadgoth

stock injectors, pump and ecu currently with decat downpipe, cone filter Tein SS springs and stripped out interior!

will be putting in 1000cc injectors all round with uprated (prob Bosch) pump.

I am also getting a TD08 and manifold,  FMIC from an Evo VI, external wastegate and a few bits and bobs.

current setup isn\'t exactly ideal but it is still under development!
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

crispyj

Thanks for the information.

I have got an HKS boost controller and I think I will set this up next week.

What ECU options are there for the T II ?  Is there a Apexi available or would I have to change to say an Emerald ECU.

Can you tell me in CO terms what is lean ?   On a normal car anything below 0.6 is lean on full boost, is a rotary the same.

Thanks again Crispyj

crispyj

What plugs would you recommend ?  I am currently running on NGK\'s  standard.

Glenn Butcher

Complicated answer as, a standard engine and turbo combination will take quite a bit of punishment BUT you really need to have a programmable ECU.

Quick answer on the plugs, you can get away with a colder plug on higher boost etc., (8 or 9 range should be ok) otherwise stick with the standard plugs.  Do a search on \'plugs\' and you should find some information.

As for the rest of the set-up, boost is your biggest issue.  Lets say you have put a larger exhaust on and taken the cats out - boost will always be hard to control, even with a proper boost controller.

I have run a Microtech ecu with Series 4 and 5 engines (standard) and each engine popped due to that fact that we weren\'t controlling boost properly (this was more than 10 years ago!!).

Only way to do it is to do it properly, start with the engine and work your way out. i.e. if you have a strong engine it is a good base to work with.  So many people start modifying cars/engines that have XXXXX amount of miles on it and end up having to rebuild it for various reasons.

Therefor, if you want a little more power.  Ensure you have a programmable ECU first, then look at things like intakes/exhausts, fuel systems etc. etc..  If you have already started modifying, or have purchased a car with mods, then get the boost under control (as it boost spikes, and boost creep - by ensuring there is none).  Then look at increasing power and delivering the correct amount of fuel required by having a programmable ecu to do it.  It should be all done using a proper wideband lambda sensor on some kind of dyno.

Hope this makes sense, most of this information is available out there on the forum - don\'t forget to search.
Thanks,