that darned turbo!!

hmltnangel · October 28, 2004, 11:44:24 PM

right, I\'ve concluded that this little black thingy is the cause of all the problems! I put it back together again then took my baby out for a drtive and...........

yyyyyyyeeeeeeeehhhhhhhhaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrr!!!!!!!!!!!

the second turbo came online at the right time so my boost looked a bit like

0.85, 0.5, 0.8 kg/cm!

This sound normal to anyone?

I then went to try hard boost again and it had went back to the way it was before.

i was puzzled until i got jome and the little black thingy was split again!

bobster · October 29, 2004, 07:31:27 PM

There are a few little black thingies about.....

There are a couple of hoses that just vent to the atmosphere, these normally just have little filters on them.... I could probably tell you what it is if I saw it.

Also.... Yes that should be the correct boost pattern.

hmltnangel · October 29, 2004, 08:06:26 PM

don\'t have a good pic till the morning but it looks like the one way valve thingies except it\'s smaller and all black

hmltnangel · October 29, 2004, 08:11:00 PM

IF YOU CAN MAKE THIS OUT......

hmltnangel · October 29, 2004, 08:12:34 PM

in that pic the pressure chamber has been removed,

the thing is all black and about 1/2 inch long and it sits inline on that hose that dissapears down into the engine.

hmltnangel · October 30, 2004, 02:04:04 PM

this is the offending pice of equipment - any ideas folk on what it is?

Shark · October 30, 2004, 11:39:21 PM

looks like a replacement for a one-way pill valve.

The hoses connected to it, where did they go?

hmltnangel · October 31, 2004, 04:09:17 AM

standing at the front of the car ......

one end goes onto a connection behind the pressure chamber - under the intake on the very right hand side. The furthest hose on the right under the intake...... points towards the front of the car.

I\'ll get a pic up in the morning.

Symptoms now sound like it is the pcv valve - its obviously now stuck open as the spring inside it vanished and i seem to be a little short of boost on the second turbo, on the plus side i can now feel the second turbo coming online.

Now my bloomin exhaust has started rattling a little bit!

Gonna do a coolant and oil change next weekend - I just got the car so I dunno when it was last done. The coolant looks old though and the oil is a little dark.

What oil would you reckon, coolant too for that matter? Also where will i get a lovely oil filter to keep the oil clean? and lastly - i\'m assuming that there is a guide for coolant change and oil change on the forum?

bobster · October 31, 2004, 10:57:00 AM

Oil - castrol 10w 40 or 15w 40..... make sure it\'s mineral.

The rotary engine injects a little oil into the housing and some synthetics may contain plastics that can leave deposits as they burn. So mineral oil only unless you can get your hands on some of the special rotary synthetics.

Any form of coolant is fine..... you might be able to get some water wetter to add to the coolant which increases the efficiency of the coolant. Not necessary but good if you can get it.
The coolant system is a total bitch to burp.... it will take along time to do.....just keep topping it up and running the engine and topping it up and running the engine and topping it up and running the engine and topping it up and running the engine. get the picture.

While you are under the car doing the oil pull the plugs out and make sure they aren\'t too fouled up.

Shark · October 31, 2004, 01:43:12 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by hmltnangel
Gonna do a coolant and oil change next weekend - I just got the car so I dunno when it was last done. The coolant looks old though and the oil is a little dark.

What oil would you reckon, coolant too for that matter? Also where will i get a lovely oil filter to keep the oil clean? and lastly - i\'m assuming that there is a guide for coolant change and oil change on the forum?

There is a sticky in the forum on how to change oil and coolant by Wav I think. - I worked from this for my coolant change yesterday, though I didn\'t drain the block, just the rad. One word of advice if you have an undertray - the how to says to remove it, but there is a circular hole exactly below where the rad drain hole is. I thought I\'d be smart and ended up with coolant all over the place until I got the drain hole plugged again. - TAKE THE UNDERTRAY OFF FIRST, is the moral of the story.
For the coolant, a 50/50 mix of aluminium friendly antifreeze and de-ionised water should do the trick. I added 2oz of water wetter to every two litres of coolant. Draining rad only took and 5 litres \'ish. Takes bloody ages to do this as has already been said.

Oil is easy, you\'ll get a filter from halfords, or go to mazda and get a filter and new sump nut washer if you don\'t know when it was last done - check the sump nut before you go to start - I had to use a hammer to get a socket onto mine cos the head was so ripped by whoever last changed the oil. You\'ll need about 4.5 litres of oil.