Cooling parts to lower temp anyone?

Started by Ceri, August 31, 2011, 02:13:59 PM

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Ceri

Hi All
 
The engine bay of my standard 1999 FD RS gets so hot under normal driving that when parked then restarted 5 mins later the car goes into limp mode and so does not rev and misfires.  Please can you tell me where I can buy a "FC" thermoswitch (so the fan comes on at a lower engine temp than with a FD switch) and a FD thermostat (possibly a SARD?) so i can try to lowr the engine bay temp and stop limp mode cutting in.
 
Thanks

Nik da Greek

Are you sure it\'s the temperature causing the limp setting to activate? That would seem excessive, even on a twin turbo FD. I\'d suggest there are probably deeper issues that need resolving there, it shouldn\'t be getting that hot. Do you have an aftermarket temperature gauge so you can see what temps you\'re actually getting?

How standard is the car? If you have an Apexi ECU you can adjust the point at which the fans come on downwards, but I don\'t think it\'s possible with the stock ECU.

In addition, are you aware of the aircon button trick? Even if your aircon is dysfunctional, turning it on will increase the radiator fans\' speed by one notch (or bring them on if they currently aren\'t) which can be like a cooling boost for when you\'re stuck in traffic or whatever. I still think you have some problem that needs sorting rather than sticking a Band-aid over the top, though

Ed_RX7

I have a whole thermostat housing with a sard lower temp stat fitted and a FC filler cap so you can eliminate the AST...let me know
Edrx7Parts

07531 669 768

"ALL I HAVE IN THIS WORLD ARE MY BALL'S AND MY WORD......AND I DON'T BREAK \'EM FOR NOBODY"

Official Distributor for TURBONETICS, ROTARYWORKS, ATS/CARBONETICS, SHINE AUTO PROJECTS and XFORCE.
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slater1982

Possibly a vented bonnet would help, have a mate with a saph cossie and he said it helped his temps a lot.

Ceri

Thanks all
 
The engine must have been rebuilt in japan as it has 50+K on the clock and the figures tested by REWORX on import were all high 8s.  All std air box/dump valve etc thats why I bought it from Speedline.  Cooling fluid is the green jap type so I will change this at the same time as the thermostat and the FC thermoswitch.  I have started using the Air con to bump up the fanspeed.  Normally these part changes would be a doddle for me on a normal engine but I cannot even locate where they are on my FD. (any clues?)  Ed, how much do you want for the housing as I am tying to do cheap fixes first while trying to keep the spec std?  Also, is it a straight swop and where can I get the gasket for it from?  Sorry but I am a bit nervous about fiddling with the rotory that is why I bought a std version.  I have read on the net subsiquently that the cooling on the FD is marginal from new due to weight saving and that my std temp guage is not linier.  So much for buying an unmolested car!!  I have thought of a vented bonet but do not want bonnet clips or carbon (and the cost).  A metal bonnet with E-type like venting flutes or simular would be nice as I want to keep it understated (as much as you can with an RX7 any available for a possible swop for a std bonnet?:yes
 
Ceri

Ed_RX7

Edrx7Parts

07531 669 768

"ALL I HAVE IN THIS WORLD ARE MY BALL'S AND MY WORD......AND I DON'T BREAK \'EM FOR NOBODY"

Official Distributor for TURBONETICS, ROTARYWORKS, ATS/CARBONETICS, SHINE AUTO PROJECTS and XFORCE.
Supplier of HALTECH Ecu\'s and components
Also of

jackaleks

lots of us have standard bonnets with no issues, if you have cooling problems putting a few holes in the engine bay won\'t cure the problem.
 
get a half decent temperature gauge so you can see what the engine is actually doing. might be a dodgy sensor being knocked out of range through heat-soak?