I suck, my UK FC doesnt start after work

[captainbizzaro]

woop woop!

[Brett]

Glad you got it sorted :wave

[Prof]

The plug one catches us all out
 
You\'ll start carrying around a set of spares in the long run
 
The deflood procedure - you can do the easy one, and if that doesn\'t work then try the hard one.
 
Easy Deflood:
 
Floor the accelerator when cranking - the ECU will detect the WOT condition and cut fuel - give it maybe 20-30 seconds of cranking - wait 1 minute then try again (provided battery is good
 
Harder Deflood (but usually always works ):
 
Remove the EGI fuse from the large fuse block in the engine bay - this cuts spark and fuel injectors.
 
Remove the bottom 2 plugs (one from each rotor).
 
Whilst holding down the accelerator to let plenty of air in, crank the engine - if it\'s badly flooded you\'ll see clouds of vapour/mist - do this for about 20-30 seconds, wait a minute and repeat.  Then remove  the upper 2 plugs as well, and clean and dry all 4 plugs, replacing them.  If you\'re engine has different leading / trailing plugs, they are marked with a T for trailing - these are the upper 2 plugs, bottom plugs are leading plugs.  A lot of these cars use 9 T\'s all round.
 
Refit the plug leads, refit EGI fuse and try and start the car normally.
 
In severe cases, you may need to tow start it.  The problem is that the fuel disolves all the oil lubricating the rotors and wrecks the compression which you need to start it.
 
A common cause of flooding is to start the car and almost immediately shut it off - rotaries seem to hate this

[grinder]

glad its all working now

[soldave]

You might still want to look at those OMP lines.  That reminds me I\'ve got to either buy new or rebuild mine at some point.

[Koose]

OMP ? The 4 plastic oil lines ? Nothing seems to go on in them, should they flow all the time ?

[soldave]

OMP - the oil metering pump lines (yup, those 4 plastic ones).  Some parts of these cars are still a bit of a mystery to me, and this one I don\'t fully understand yet.  But it injects oil into the engine under certain conditions which then burns.  The alternative to this is by using premix, which some people do and remove the OMP setup, but with the S5 engines that requires modification to the ECU as the OMP system is electrically controlled and just removing it will throw the computer into limp home mode.

[SSScoupe]

Glad you got it sorted .... had the same flooding problem myself over the last few days!  Pain in the ass :Grrr

[pdtaylor18]

The OMP lines will over time become brittle and go a dark yellow colour due to age.  With new oil its a lot harder to see but with darker older oil you should see them filled with oil.You can check its getting oil by disconnecting them at the OMP itself one by one and see if oil flows out.....but it will not be much. If the OMP had failed you would get a check light and failure to start/limp mode.  if you are unsure then pre-mix now until you are 100% sure its pumping correctly, it will not hurt even if it is working. It regulates the amount of oil dependant upon throttle and will pump more under WOT and very little when cruising etc.