how much bhp

Started by mmm, November 18, 2009, 03:47:58 PM

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mmm

How much bhp??

I am going to buy this car can you guys have aguess at the bhp as the seller is saying 500+ with no dyno?




fully rebuilt by Karim at Powergains motorsport.  I will mention some below:


Full rebuild with new rotors, 3 piece uprated APEX seals etc...


Engine has been ported somewhat as well, will get further details


T88 Greddy Turbo


Greddy Manifold Custom Made screamer pipe Custom made 4 inch exhaust at a huge cost, 4inches from the back of the Turbo straight to the back


HUGE Greddy 3 core intercooler


OS Giken Twin plate clutch


Uprated Elbow Greddy

Tein adjustable coilover suspension


Apexi Power FC ECU


Bosch 044 Fuel Pump


Light weight chrome pulleys.


Momo Steering Wheel


17 inch split rims with good rubber all round


It needs to be run in for a further 600 miles or so, then taken back to power gains to finish off the work. It has been fully paid for in advance and a call can confirm this.


I have paid, but not yet had:


Larger injectors will double check but from memory its two 1600cc and two 800cc


A full map on the Dyno


Aluminum water radiator.


Water Injection


As mentioned all the above have already been paid for so once it has been ran in, you can just book an appointment.

Things that need buying / finishing off:



Power FC commander as I have the ECU, but not the hand held controller




According to the forum and Powergains, this car should easily be good for 500+ at the wheels on a reasonable boost, with quarter mile time of about 12 seconds? someone correct me if I am wrong please.

DR SCHNITZEL

Depends on size of the ports n boost pressure but i dont see why not

BlitzBoy

On that Turbo with porting you should see 450hp at the wheels (approx 1.3 BAR 530bhp fly) you can get 500 at the wheels if you turn the boost up somewhat
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

mmm

thank you very much guys, another quick question how mnay miles or years will this engine last with recent rebuild and reg service??

mmm


stacy

The law of diminishing returns applies my friend. At point x it might last a few years, and point x + 10% it might last a few weeks. Just depends where point x is.. Could be 400bhp, could be more, could be less. We can\'t see the ports for a start.

Guessing power is a fools game, I\'d wait until it was finished or buy it if given some thought you\'re actually not that bothered since in my experience anything over 300bhp on the road is just fine..  

S.

mmm

thank you guys and girls, anyone else wanna have a go at guessing the bhp?

m1tch



L18M

Quote from: mmm;655433??????????

big boost goes into engine, out comes an apexi tip. simple.
ie, the more boost u have, the less the engine will last.
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

mmm

even if you uprate the parts that are required for the rebuild?

m1tch

Quote from: mmm;655469even if you uprate the parts that are required for the rebuild?

You can uprate all the parts as best you can - its mainly the ancilleries that will make the engine fail ie the cooling, fueling, intake, ignition or engine management.

Basically this is what I have been told:

Below 1 bar = no issues
1 bar = if the engine is strong then it can do this all day every day
1.2 bar = break even point between power and engine life
1.2 bar + = yes it will do it, just not for extended periods ie drag runs

Please note that its not just the engine that needs to be uprated, the engine will be lost if:

1. the engine only slightly overheats - if its already above normal on the stock gauge, its too late, get an oil temp gauge
2. Detonation on boost caused by fuel that is too low in octane
3. Lean fueling when on boost - very common cause of failure if the person hasn\'t uprated injectors/ECU and then boosts it past the mapping (intentionally ot boost spike)
4. Ignition break up - happens at higher RPM/boost where the ignition system can\'t keep up
5. ECU issues - if its not mapped correctly for the mods, most common mistake is to run a decat, uprated air filter and exhaust on a stock ECU

Saying that, if you look after it like I have then you won\'t really have any issues, for myself I am going with the idea of not stressing any component to the max, so for example I am getting large injectors and run them at a lower duty cycle. There are some FC3S EGIs that have gone past the 200k mark without a rebuild, mine is on 88k and still has very good compression.

Another thing to say is that it is usually the rear rotor that goes as it has a longest track for the OMP lines to get to - that can get blocked or fail, as well as being right back in the engine bay with no cooling and a gearbox on 1 side and another rotor on the other side :Giggle

Just remember that it is a sports car and not a HGV, the engine life comes at the expense of power :) lots of loverly rotary power :rollin

Prof

Like Blitzboy said - I\'d say over 400 BHP at the wheels if the car is tuned correctly.  Will depend a lot on what porting is done, and intake/exhaust free flowing.
 
At the end of the day, the power is all about how much air you can get through the engine and how much fuel.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


mmm

Thank you guys for a great response much appreciated!!