No Boost!

[andyrose]

Guys,
I have posted this problem on FDUK but had no luck so far, wondering if anyone here has had similar probs.

Flooded the car (after a 4 week layup)
Removed plugs, dried, cleaned, and started ok.

I took it out for a drive (letting everything warm up) everything seemed ok but when I went WOT the car lost power (felt like fuel or ignition prob) I noticed that this happens at around 5 psi of boost, it doesn\'t matter what the revs are, can be from idle or 6k it just will not go above 5 psi.

I have checked the all of the pipes that are easy to get to but thought I\'d ask here before I start taking bits off.

Before it reaches 5 psi the turbo spools ok, I get pushed into the seat (albet only a bit), I have no smoke coming from under the bonnet when running or excesive oil consumption. The coolant level has stayed the same since first purchase 1 year ago and 5k miles.

Is anyone near to Peterborough or does anyone know of any local specialists?

FD3S Type R (1993) Hard pipes, Induction kit, Blitz rear and Blitz dual SBC (which I have never messed around with)

Before the lay-up (and flooding prob) it was running really nice with full boost from both turbos

Regards

Andy

[grinder]

going out on a really thin limb here

isnt there a selanoid that operates the second turbo

im sure i have read that it can become stuck shut

i think i read it on the yank forum http://www.rx7club.com - you could always try searching there

and if i am wrong - dont worry about it - i drive and FC and i have no idea about 3rd gens

[nikp]

If it\'s not going above 5 psi, then the second turbo is not coming online at all. The second trubo needs at least 8psi for it to become operational, so it\'s not to do with that.

This might be the reason:

Double Throttle Control

This keeps a second set of Secondary throttle plates in the throttle body closed. If the Double Throttle control is not working properly, (i.e. secondary always closed) then maximum boost will be restricted to ~5 psi.

Or:

Charge Control Solenoid / Actuator / Valve

From 0 to 4,500 RPM with a vacuum applied to Chamber A, the Charge Control Valve stays closed, as Primary boost is always greater than a vacuum. Note, that the vacuum supply is from the Vacuum Chamber, thus leakage of the one-way check valve for the Vacuum Chamber will result in Primary boost applied on both sides of the actuator resulting in this valve opening when it should not, dumping Primary boost through the Charge Relief , Secondary Turbo and out the Charge Relief Valve.

[tomrex]

hello
i\'ve recently had a simular problem! after my santa pod blasts i left my car in my garage for a few days to recover, when i took her out for a spin my second turbo wouldn\'t come on line propley! it was running about half boost compared to normal and sometimes number two wouldn\'t even come in, expecially in 1st n 2nd gear! so i rung geoff at reworx, who pin pointed the problem over the phone.
he told me to check a small black plastic box that sits directly underneath the middle of the strut brace, there are two small vacum pipes that come off the right hand side of it and these sometimes pop off which leads to number 2 turbo problems!
mine had came off at the black box end so it was simple to cure!
check both ends of these vac pipes and that could be it!
its a long shot but you never know
tom :wave

[nikp]

Yeah, that\'s the pressure chamber. If this has happened, and the pipes have popped off, don\'t just pop them back on, cos they\'ll only blow off again (Uo to 12 PSI of pressure in there!) Use cable ties, or something similar. I suppose it\'s also possible that this chamber has split somewhere and is causing a leak, although this is less likely.

[tomrex]

bit of a crappy little little box to hold all that pressure don\'t ya think? oh yeah, cable ties r a good idea, i did use em!:)