Water Useage

[RobbieRX-7]

Thats why your loosing water. It\'s all being sent to the expansion tank!

[nikp]

Sprung cap goes on the AST, and flat one on the metal filler neck in the middle. (Unless you have my setup where i don\'t have an AST! )

[Rocho]

So the sprung cap was in the middle and the flat one on the AST tank to the right?

Yes they were.

Its booked in to WGT on the 19th so she\'ll get a check up then.

[Rocho]

Went to WGT and I have exhaust gas in the coolant system.

For the virgins out there that means from my little episode above she is now booked for a £2.5k+ rebuild. And to top it off my power plant had snapped into three costing another £300, and then I managed to leave my f…ing laptop there meaning a 4 hour round trip to pick it up.

Oh you just can\'t imagine how happy this makes me, especially considering as this engine is 9000km on its current rebuild.

So just to re-iterate to anyone out there please please take note of this...

The level in the driver’s wing water tank with the dip stick means nothing.

(From WGT)

To fill...

1) Take main cap and AST cap off,
2) Fill the main (middle) with coolant until the AST is just over half full, put the AST cap on,
3) Top up the main water fill on the engine and put the cap on.

The round cap goes on the AST and flat one with \'ears\' goes on the main tank on top of the engine.

[RobbieRX-7]

So just to re-iterate to anyone out there please please take note of this...

The level in the driver’s wing water tank with the dip stick means nothing.

(From WGT)

To fill...

1) Take main cap and AST cap off,
2) Fill the main (middle) with coolant until the AST is just over half full, put the AST cap on,
3) Top up the main water fill on the engine and put the cap on.

The round cap goes on the AST and flat one with \'ears\' goes on the main tank on top of the engine.

That\'s bad news mate, but is a very common problem with these engines. Still it is even worse in your case being as it was supposed to have been rebuilt less 9000km ago. You could always save yourself £2500+ by rebuilding it yourself. It\'s not that bad to be honest. I did mine about a month and half ago for the first time and drove to germany round the nurburgring 14 times and back with no problems. Mine died with water seal failure too. All in it cost me about £800. All new internal seals + springs, reused housings,plates.

Is the car still loosing water? You might be able to still drive the car round even if the water seals are gone. It will just carry on loosing water and wont really do any harm to the engine. Obviously the worst it get, the harder it gets to keep the temps down. It will just get worse over time, but might be ok for a little bit longer untill you can scrape the cash together. I think once it gets to the stage of blowing clouds of white smoke and out the exhaust and misfiring because of wet spark plugs, it\'s definitley time to get rebuilt.

[Rocho]

Its using about 1cup per week.

I had no idea there was anything wrong with it, it drives as good as it ever did. WGT say that over the next few months it will get worse so I\'ve got it booked in mid august. I didn\'t fancy breaking down in the middle of no-where and having to pay for a tow so I\'m going to use it as little as possible.

If I put my mind to it I could probebly do it myself, the only thing is it would take me bloomin ages and I would be really paranoid about doing something wrong and mesing it up even more (in fact that is exactly what would happen!) So I\'m just going to bite the bullet and get it sorted.

The slightly annoying thing is that its going to be expensive, but I know that whilst its in bits I should spend a bit more and get a few mods done at the same time. Pip said that he will make some recomendations when its stripped down but I was considering having the wastegate ported, I dont like how long it currently takes to vent when trying to go through all the gears, am I barking up the right tree? I\'ve currentley got a Blitz dump valve on the 1st turbo, 2nd goes to the stock air box.

Basic so far (and want to keep it fairly standard)...
3.5" exahaust (decat)
Apexi ecu - will be mapped post rebuild

[Teighto]

Robbie, do you mind sharign where you bought all the parts from for your rebuild

@ the moment im on the look out for a 2nd hand engine that i can rebuild my self then put in the car once all sorted.
then once i know that one is good im going to rebuild the one i take out and sell that

any info you can give me mate will be much appreciated.

Teighto@hotmail.com is my addy

also did you use a Guide/manual when doing the rebuild??

im prob gunna end up getting the DVD set and follow them ??

again any help is appreciated

[RobbieRX-7]

Just out of interest, How many miles has it got on the clock? I dont understand what you mean by the the time the wastgate takes.  It sounds like you may have some other problem with the vacume pipes or a sticky solenoid somewhere. I think folks only port the wastgate when going non sequential but im not 100% on this.

[Rocho]

55k

I\'ve not driven any other rexs to this maybe normal...

Basically when I\'m setting off at the lights, the boost is about -0.8bar goes to 0bar it pulls off great, into 2nd same again pressure released -0.8bar goes to 0bar and pulls great, but when I get to 3rd and upwards it dont seem to drop back down to -0.8 very quickly, I have to stay off the accellerator for a good 1.5secs+. So I just keep my foot down to accellerate and it stays about 0bar.

Its not propoerly mapped, thats what I was going to WGT for originally! But it was pretty much the same when on the standard Jap ECU execpt it went to 0.3bar.

[Teighto]

Robbie -  I ahve some how lost your email, i still need the Stuff could you email me again please ??

Chris

Teighto@hotmail.com