Sleepy Eye Kit / Headlight Motor

Started by dazpoynter, June 04, 2007, 01:34:27 PM

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dazpoynter

Am thinking of installing a sleepy eye kit on my third gen and was wondering if anyone knows the amp rating that makes the headlight motors work.:3Confused

I think I know how to install it the DIY way thought guides on this site, using the 30 amp fuse in the HEAD Location.

Im not to good with electrical stuff so what im thinking at the moment is that because there is a 30 amp fuse in that HEAD location the motors will not take more than 30 amps, but as there is a switch needed in the system then im thinking that this will also need a rating of 30 amps.

Is this right or can I use a switch that matches the headlight motors (if anyone knows what amp they need), eg 6,10, 15 amp, as can not find a three way toggle switch rated up to 30 amps anywhere, and, if my thoughts are wrong can anyone who has done there sleepy eye kit the DIY way tell me what switch have you used as don’t want things to start burning or melting in my car.:god

Cheers

TracNGaz

id use a relay, less current through the switch that way.
 
I used to have an fiat x19 till one day it just dissapeared from rust that had no relays on the leccy windows and the popup lights and used to burn out switches

dazpoynter

Am thinking of following this

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12016&highlight=sleepy+eye

This had no relay in it, if i was to put one in how would it help. as said i am CRAP with electrical stuff.

Cheers

Rocho

I\'ve read that a few times now and I dont really see how it works (could do with a diagram!) but I do know one thing and that you shouldn\'t be switching 30A with a switch, you\'d need a switch rated at +30A and the cable would also have to be rated at +30A.

Part of the thread refers to comming off the switch in the dash to pop up the lights, that must at as stock must go to a relay as that switch isn\'t rated at 30A.

I was looking at these sometime ago but got put off by the thought of warping the bumpers, and having only half the light comming out, they arn\'t very good when fully up!

dazpoynter

I was also given this web site by someone on here

http://www.club323f.com/bg/guides/sleepy_eyes/sleepy_eyes.php

Have worked out through the other thread that i use the 30A Head fuse, but as you have said dont want to start burning switches and melting wires and parts of my dash.

From what i understand is that you place this system just after the fuse so its before the standard lift button on the dash, but as it has a pulse feature you can jog the lights up. Also doing it this way you still go through the standard relay.

So basically

When new switch is off = nothing works.
When new switch is on = all works normally, Standard dash switch and light controlls.
To pulse / jog the lights up you have to have the switch in the off pos, turn the lights on or power them by the standard dash switch, pluse the lights to the height you want by using the (on) function which then returns to the off function, and then switch the lights off to stop burning / warping bumpers and put the dash switch back to normal.

All this said, what amp rate does the standard dash switch have as you could just match that.

Rocho

I\'ve just been giving this a little more thought.

As above you have to turn the lights off to stop warping the bumpers etc. As this is this is just for show really what about having a microswitch or similar placed at the half way point that cuts the main circuit over to a reduced light circuit?

The wireing is already in for powering the lights, all you\'d need to do it switch to an aux circuit with a bunch of high power resistors in parallel and half the main beam power? I\'ve just looked on maplin and you can get 10W resistors, about 8 of correct OHM in parallel on each light, along with appropriate relays would do it. The only trick would be mounting the siwtch in the correct position.

Or even better having a toggle circuit, so that when the switch is pulsed to sleepy it switches to the sleepy circuit, and when the main beam is on it switches back again.

Anyone know if this would be legal? Maybe they could then be classed as sidelights?

dazpoynter

But the lights are on a different circuit are they not. As if you pull out the Head fuse and turn on the lights they come on its just that the motors dont lift them.

Therefore i think if you install this and turn on the motor through the standard switch in the dash, pulse the lights to the height you want using the toggle switch. As this jumps back to the off pos its light pulling out the fuse so you should be able to use your lights if you want to.

I\'m thinking that i\'m not going to have my lights on when there on a slight angle and that i will just put them back to normal at night by switching the toggle switch to on pos.

Rocho

Yep your right. The only way you could really do would be to put another switch and cable to flip the relay to the aux circuit. Still a simple & reasonable idea though.

dazpoynter

This still leaves the burning question of what electrical rate i need the switch to be, the one in the first thread looks like the 6 amp one from maplins.

Would be nice to know what the standard dash one is.