Might be useful...

[catboy]

From :-  http://www.bba-reman.com/auto-mine/mazda/rx7_problems.htm


Mazda RX7 faults and problems

Oil pressure gauge reads 0 psi
Sometimes the connection between the oil pressure sending unit and the wire to the oil pressure gauge
gets loose or dirty. The way to fix this is to clean the metal tab on the sending unit with some 0000 steel
wool, and then re-install the gauge wire using some electrolytic silicone gel (like some sets of spark
plug wires come with) to seal out grime.

Hood squeaks / rattles
Squeaks: Lightly lube up the tops of the rubber hood stops and the latch.
Rattles: Tighten the latch mechanism so it holds the hood to the rubber stops with light pressure. Latch
rattles can also be temporarily fixed by wrapping a small amount of tape around the latch where it mates
with the striker plate.

Hand brake light comes on while driving
The switch that controls the parking brake indicator light is located under the leather brake handle boot.
Sometimes during acceleration the hand brake lever moves enough to activate the light. This problem
can be fixed by building up the area of the handbrake that contacts the switch with a product like
JB Weld.

"Low Coolant" alarm goes off
The "Low Coolant" alarm goes off when the low coolant sensor is not wet. This sensor is located on the
back side of the aluminum coolant fill housing. Simply top off your coolant level to quiet the alarm (even
though it may already look full).

Radio flashing "Err" code
This means the factory radio\'s anti-theft feature has been triggered. It can be reset by entering an
unlocking code. For obvious reasons, I will not put the code in this FAQ. E-mail me at tcw@prismnet.com
and include your VIN and I will tell you how to unlock your radio. Your dealership can also do this, but
sometimes they charge a fee.

Hesitation at 3000 RPM when cold
No known cure. I think it is caused by the double throttle control. Its purpose is to prevent the engine from
getting an overly lean fuel/air mix when you first start to accelerate. Now the way this system works is
that when the engine is cold, (coolant below 175 degrees or so) the ECU opens the double throttle control
solenoid, which supplies vacuum to the double throttle control actuator. This vacuum overcomes the spring
tension that normally holds the double throttle butterfly open, and it closes. Now, think about what happens
when you accelerate....the engine pulls less vacuum, and starts to go towards positive manifold pressure
as you build boost. With the vacuum going away, the plate returns to its open (normal when engine warm)
position. This helps explain why the car doesn\'t hesitate when accelerating hard, and does when
accelerating slowly. The decision by the ECU to operate the double throttle control system is affected by
coolant temperature, and the current "map" that the ECU is using. The Double Throttle control only
happens during starting, cold engine warm-up, and COLD engine with LIGHT LOAD operation. This map is
also affected by the 20k mile switch, which is why many people say that the car never hesitated at 3000
RPM when it was new. The 20k mile switch does the same thing that the EL switch does.... it adds base
RPM to the motor... which affects the ECU\'s decision as to what "map" it is currently operating in. This is
just my personal theory, and may be wrong.

Paint problems
Some RX-7 owners have experienced problems with accelerated paint chipping and fading. Mazda has set
aside some money to deal with this problem on a case-by-case basis.

Battery death & leakage
Many people on the RX-7 mailing list have had their batteries die prematurely. The main cause seems to
be excessive heat. Batteries don\'t do well with heat, and it gets quite hot under the hood of an RX-7. Hot
batteries also tend to leak acid. One solution to this problem is to buy a sealed battery. Sealed batteries
withstand heat and cold much better than normal batteries, and they do not leak. Sealed batteries cost
a little more than regular batteries, but they also last longer and come with better warranties.

Brake rotor warpage
Brake rotors warp from excessive heat. Routinely braking hard from high speed, can cause warpage.
Rotors have been replaced under the new-car warranty. The extended warranties generally don\'t cover
rotors, since they are expected to be consumed with use. Many netters have had their rotors replaced
under warranty.

Suspension clunk
Cars produced prior to May 31, 1992 came from the factory with noisy upper a-arm bushings. Your
dealership will replace the bushings under warranty with a modified part.

Cracking factory wheels
Some people on the net have noticed cracks where their spokes join the rim. There seem to have been
two manufacturers of stock rims, one type has a curved area where the spoke joins the rim, and the
other joins at a 90 degree angle. All reported cases of cracking rims have been on the 90 degree type rims

Hope this helps someone

b

[clive]

Good man, thanks for posting that.

All the Best Clive
e-mail: clive@mazdarotaryclub.com
web:    //www.mazdarotaryclub.com