FMIC and oil cooler move...

[Initial-D]

Been busy today and yesterday and tomorrow too no doubt! Moving the oil coolers further foward and lowering the AC rad so I can move the FMIC down a touch - plus a tweak to the the undertray too. All in aid of lowering the intake temps and getting a more flush fit with the front bumper.

Its also given me the opportunity to have a good clean in there, never miss an opportunity to get the marigolds out!:Giggle

[Smifta]

How does the a/c work with the rad mounted horizontally? Just curious really!

[Eddie]

I was thinking about moving the AC rad as well, mines in front of my rad and very restrictive, nice to see its been done so is possible.
Can you possibly send somemore pics of this to
Leee_home@hotmail.com.

Cheers

[Initial-D]

The AC rad still works fine, the main water rad is mounted behind the FMIC which has vents in it to let the air flow through the FMIC to the rad. One of the reasons why I went with the Apexi over other models is the fact it still allows cool air to the rad and not just hot air after its worked its way through the FMIC.

I\'m still not 100% about dumping the AC as our summers are so hot now! Henc why I kept it lol!

[Initial-D]

Only other pics I have are these which are shot more head on.
You can download the outline of the Apexi FMIC here: http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/30.pdf although you\'ll nead Acrobat Reader.

[TRex]

Ben, I assume you had to get longer A/C pipes, Oil cooler lines etc to make this work then..

[Initial-D]

Nope it uses the existing lines and involved a bit of bending!
The oil coolers have rubber hoses which enabeled me to shift them foward and down a touch. I used an exising braket for the oil coolers by unbolting it and mounting it upside down lol!

[Andy_k]

Something worth looking into when i duct up my new bumper.

Good post cheers

[kbareham]

Just a little to add to this thread for reference. I have just been moving my coolers a little because they were in the way of my FMIC. I chose to replace the pipes to the oil coolers too. There are two types of fittings you need to do this:
1) The banjo fittings on the engine are M18 * 1.5. I used M18 * 1.5 to 5/8 BSP adapters because BSP oil cooler fittings are commonplace.
2) The clip in fittings on the coolers themselves can be replaced by M22 * 1.5 to 5/8 BSP adapters.

Then is is simple to make up the 5/8 BSP pipes as required.

Although they look a little cheap, the push on fittings I used with Aeroquip hose have proved to be completely reliable on my cars over the last 16 years or so. Pre-made pipes to order could probably be better if you really wanted to.

Keith

[Initial-D]

Mmm that looks good! I thought about going the pre-made route but as the current setup was able to be adjusted I just adjusted the brackets.

[antnicuk]

Hi Keith,
looks like your getting there,

are you sticking with the jubilee clip to hold the rubber hose on?,  if so, will it take the pressure?
regards
Tony

[shaunwil]

Just thinking that. Isn\'t that a high pressure line at that point, you made need to get some proper crimped lines made up or they will blow off. You should be able to go to a hydralics supply company with the pipe and get a high pressure copy made.

Shaun

[kbareham]

I know it looks a bit suspect, but the fittings have "jaws" on them which allow the hose to push on and not come off again. I can\'t pull the hose off by hand. The manufacturer suggests that you don\'t need anything to hold them in place, but I put the clips on for safety.

I used the same thing on the two oil coolers on my old Manta, and have never had any problems in 16 years. The only difference is that the Manta was done in 1/2", and the FD is in 5/8". You can be sure I\'ll be taking a good look around when I first start it though!


Keith