Davies Craig Water pump position ????

[kev-yorks]

What temps where you running?  Didn\'t think you had a prob with your set up and don\'t forget lower isn\'t always better. The engines designed to run at a certain temp thats why there\'s a thermostat in there to get the temps up ASAP.
Kevin

[shaunwil]

I was running in the 90\'s on the hot days. It was more a case of going towards going for a single turbo and trying to make it so i don\'t get as much heatsoak next time i go drag racing to try and help reduce air temps too.

I think i\'ll leave the thermostat in for the min and set the controller to 5deg more !

Shaun

[shaunwil]

Well I\'ve finally finished installing the system and its been alot bigger job than i thought originally.

The controller is a poor design in my mind for what you pay. There isn\'t any diagnostics to show everything is wired up correctly, no led\'s to show correct power, nothing to show if the sensor is working properly. Theres nothing to show that the pump is running and what speed it is running. I had to wire up a volt meter just to check that it was even remotely working.

I had to wire in a resister into the sensor cable to get the temps down when a plug option would have been more professional.

At the minute the controller is set to around 85degs, and seems to be doing its just quite nicely. I will need to uprate my rad to get it to work better but i think i knew this.

I\'ve removed the water pump and thermostat completely and it takes about twice as long for the system to warm up properly which isn\'t too bad. The pump runs at 0.5volt initially to help speed up the warming process.

I struggled alot finding a belt to fit my alternator, i needed a 5pk750 (5 v grooves and 750 circumerence) but could only find a 4pk747 which is a bugger to get on. Im running with the original Pulley to get more power from the alternator.

Picture of engine bay :


Shaun

[shaunwil]

Jus to add to the thread in case im the only person running on the contoller. Had a conversation with pip about my sump plug and he mentioned some info I had missed completely I had to butcher my thermostat and cover over the hole behind it that is covered up when the thermostat opens. Ive done it slightly different to how pip said because i don\'t have any taps yet. I cut the thermostat so that the bottom carrier was intact to hold a spacered bolt with a large washer on the end. It was set so that the rubber of the thermostat protuded about 2mm when in place. When i tightened the cover it should push the washer over the hole and seal the hole up !

Just incase anybody else uses the controller too, this needs to be done to squeeze coolant through to the back rotor, so very important !

Car feels strong for sure, but im not sure if the twin power ignition amp has made a big difference too ! Temps arn\'t too bad but i will still need a larger rad in the next couple of months !

Shaun

[MikeLMR]

how much all in does a setup like this cost then ? (roughly) The standard water pumps are monsterous great things, must shed a few lbs by ditching it?

[shaunwil]

I would say it makes the car heavier, but only by a couple of kg. I\'ve only removed the actual pump on the front of the assembly. However you could remove the whole thing and have a seperate swirl tank filler !

All in all it works out about 250 quid for the Pump, the controller and the samco hoses to connect it up. The pump on its own which is a possible setup without the controller is 145ish and is usually what most people do.

I think its more the power taken back by not having the pump running off the engine, seems to rev more freely too !

Shaun

[MikeLMR]

what does the controler do ? can you run them with an inline thermostat ?

[shaunwil]

The controller basically controls the rate of the pump to try and hold a preset temp. Im not sure if you can run them with an inline thermostat, you can have the pump setup as a booster so it only comes on with the fans to help reduce overheating !

Shaun