non sequential turbo questions

[Tintin]

Boost building from 2.5K , I can certainly live with that , you got any "special" porting done

What your saying about the boost controller solenoid would seem to match up with the diagrams in the eboost2 manual , makes sense now cheers

Might get the engine out tomorrow with a bit of luck , done it totally back to front , didn\'t realise you unpluged the ECU and took the loom off with the engine , I\'ve unpluged it all and had to strip it almost completely down to do it , never mind it had to be done anyway , think that all thats left to do is split the gearbox and engine , been reading a few threads on it , glad i\'ve found out about the clutch that could have been fun trying to work it out , is it do-able one maned this unbolting the clutch lark , I know its going to be a laugh un doing one bolt then moving it round then going back under for the next and so on and so on and ........ but do you need to stop the crank from moving or will it stay sill on its own ? or would it be easier to remove the clip thingy that I read about

[Tintin]

A couple of new questions for you

on the non seq conversion you take off the turbo control actuator and weld the gate 90% open , why can\'t you just take the whole gate out aswell ? I would have thought it would cause less disruption to the gas flow if it wasn\'t there at all

next one is to do with the throttle body , I\'ve removed the double throttle and was going to remove the coolant from the TB as well , I was having a look at the fast idle cam and was wondering why you can\'t just take it off thus not needing to wire the cam open , I\'ve taken it off and had a look and can\'t see any problems , any thoughts On a related note to get the fast cam asembly off I had to remove the throttle position sensor , when I came to put it back on I realised the bottom butterfly had fully closed and it wasn\'t before , how critical is it to get it exact or can I adjust it on the car to get the idle to sit right

Last question , this ones to do with the accelarated warm up , I\'m sure I\'ve read that this gets removed with either the double throttle or the coolant flow , can\'t remember which , I can\'t actually find it on the UIM or the TB where is it and do you just remove it or do you need to blank it off

Cheers fellas , I\'ll have more queries for you soon I\'m sure  :cheers

[Wav]

A couple of new questions for you

on the non seq conversion you take off the turbo control actuator and weld the gate 90% open , why can\'t you just take the whole gate out aswell ? I would have thought it would cause less disruption to the gas flow if it wasn\'t there at all

next one is to do with the throttle body , I\'ve removed the double throttle and was going to remove the coolant from the TB as well , I was having a look at the fast idle cam and was wondering why you can\'t just take it off thus not needing to wire the cam open , I\'ve taken it off and had a look and can\'t see any problems , any thoughts On a related note to get the fast cam asembly off I had to remove the throttle position sensor , when I came to put it back on I realised the bottom butterfly had fully closed and it wasn\'t before , how critical is it to get it exact or can I adjust it on the car to get the idle to sit right

Last question , this ones to do with the accelarated warm up , I\'m sure I\'ve read that this gets removed with either the double throttle or the coolant flow , can\'t remember which , I can\'t actually find it on the UIM or the TB where is it and do you just remove it or do you need to blank it off

Cheers fellas , I\'ll have more queries for you soon I\'m sure  :cheers

1. The turbo control actuator flap sits in its own hole/dimple, so if you removed it completely the exhaust gas flow would get disrupted. By welding it at 90% enures the flap covers the hole while allowing the gas to have an "as" straight flow path as possible.

2. I think you should be able to get rid of the fast idle cam etc ok, however I dicided to keep it as it doesn\'t really effect flow. I did remove and flow the secondary butterflies though. The throttle position sensor needs putting on properly or it will not work. You need to tension up the spring and make sure the feet locate on the correct sides of the pivot. You\'ll know you\'ve done it right when you can rotate it in position and it tries to spring back, when the bolts arn\'t in obviously.

3. It\'s directly below the secondary butterfly actuator and has a white plug going onto it from the wiring loom. Look in the workshop manual

Paul

[Tintin]

Cheers Paul I\'ll have another look for the AWS , was in a bit of a rush when I was looking last night

I wanted to remove the fast idle cam purely because its not needed anymore and I thought it would clean up the TB a bit

[Tintin]

Am I going mad , had another look for the AWS and still cant find it , according to the workshop manual the whatsit that sits directly below the double throttle is the ISC ( Idle Speed Controler ) and the AWS is on the underneath of the UIM and has a tube connecting to the intake elbow , correct

There is sod all on the underside of my UIM and the nipple on the intake elbow has a plug on it and its been like that since I got the car , is it possible my car doesn\'t have the AWS I\'ve attatched a pic so you can see

[Wav]

Ahh yes the Jap spec car doesn\'t have this. THe US cars and UK cars did. So no you do not have to worry about THe manual you\'re using is the American one!

Paul

[Tintin]

Cheers bud , at least I\'m not going insane , I was wondering if that was the case

[probedb]

Tintin let me know if you find somewhere good to get the turbos checked as I\'m only in Chesterfield and pretty sure the second is not right. I\'ll be rebuilding my engine at the end of Sept so would be good to find somewhere local for this

Cheers!!

[Tintin]

I\'ve been told AET up near wakefield are pretty good , I\'ve emailed them and they will check turbos free of charge obviously hoping you\'ll get them to fix them

Can\'t remember there web address , all I did was googled AET

Probably not going to get mine checked now as the ones I have Pip has looked at and says there toast and he\'s going to supply me a good set of twins

[probedb]

Cheers matey. I\'ll see what they\'re like when I get my engine out

[Tintin]

I told you I\'de get more questions for you , these are probably going to up for debate so I\'d appreciate any opinions

First one is about the pre control flapper , from what I\'ve researched theres 3 schools of thought , weld it 90% open , weld it shut or completely remove it , each idea has its own theory to back it up ( can\'t remember all the ins and outs so I won\'t try ) so due to my lack of technical knowledge I don\'t know which would be best

Next one is about porting the exhaust manifold and turbo housing , I found this on one of the american sites , think it was rx7club.com , incidently the cracking on my turbo is almost identical to this and I think I could probably grind out most the cracks if I matched the ports a bit , if this is a viable idea is it worth keeping my turbos as oppose to getting a new (used) set from Pip , might get them checked by AET just to make sure

Question 3 is more of a technical querey , while looking at the turbo pack today I was following the flow paths in my mind and noticed the position of the wastegate flapper , due to its position it looks to me that it will only vent gas past the primary turbo , is this right if so what regulates boost on the secondary in a non sequential conversion

[Tintin]

Really any opinion will do , even if its to say don\'t bother

Has no-one got any advise ?