Car failed the MOT :(

Started by grinder, March 28, 2006, 12:28:23 PM

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FD3SNuttah

i have even got a 4\'x6\' sheet of 1mm steel at my house, you can have half of it if you come round for it dude. that should see you plenty. i could post the sill to you, thats how it came to me mate.  but it will cost another tenner at least on snail mail.

I dont think you should delete the lip. its where the floor / inner sill / outter sill meet. it increases the sills rigidity. i know you want to probably get this done cheap but dont do a "ghetto" job, it will cause you stress the next time. if you bothered about moisture collecting under there then make a couple of holes in the kit for drainage.

grinder

after speaking to allan - he says this is the best way to be honest ( remove lip )

it does increase rigidity - but prob not tooo much now :(

i dont want it doing cheap - i want it doing solidly and quickly !! LOL

and to put the seam back in will be a lot of work to be honest matey

i know what you mean though - i really do - surely it will add some stiffness with welding the inner and out seams together .. they come out the factory with just spot welds - im not sure how much strengh that has ???

depending on what kevs views are on this my plan is to

1 - remove skirts
2 - completly remove seam
3 - cut back what i have put in ( or use that as some sort of base
4 - weld in a full section say 4 inch wide full lengh of the car
5 - paint , underseal , underseal ... did i mention underseal
6 - rebuild that side

copy on the other side

then weld the U shape over the drivers side rail

and that SHOULD be it - all sold and looking neat

although im sure Kev will beable to supply better answers ??

Stu


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kev-yorks

Quote from: TURBOIINUTTAHi have even got a 4\'x6\' sheet of 1mm steel at my house, you can have half of it if you come round for it dude. that should see you plenty. i could post the sill to you, thats how it came to me mate.  but it will cost another tenner at least on snail mail.

I dont think you should delete the lip. its where the floor / inner sill / outter sill meet. it increases the sills rigidity. i know you want to probably get this done cheap but dont do a "ghetto" job, it will cause you stress the next time. if you bothered about moisture collecting under there then make a couple of holes in the kit for drainage.
I\'ll have a word with Stu getting the sill isn\'t that major a problem as i only live just north of donny at Eggborough. Away at Brooklands this weekend but i could always have a run to the Vue the following Sunday we could maybe get a mini meet there as there\'s a few of us in this area now. As regards sheet steel thats not a problem as i\'ve about 20 sheets squat at work.
Kevin
Regards Kevin

grinder

so Kev ,

you reckon putting the peice in is the way forward ???

if thats the case - them im up for that :D

Stu


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

grinder

Nas

i think Kev really needs a pic of that section you have

kev has a cosmo and prob no idea what the underside of an FC loooks like :D

ta

stu


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

FD3SNuttah