New RX7 owner...... a few questions.

[gsb876]

Welcome to the club matey,

The 60K figure for a rebuild is not bullet proof the engine may run completely fine for another 15K for all we know, compression test will give you an idea as to the engine condition but not exact detail.

As for the ECU i would recommend the Apexi Power Fc really as most of us guys are running these they work very well with the rotary engine.

Most northern rotary specialist is Pip @ WGT engineering based in Northwich near MANCHESTER off M6 J18/19 so a trek for you dude  :3Confused

Aluminium AST is approx £100 and with a slightly modded rx the original should be ok but check for leaks when you get it to be sure, boost issues are a issue on TT models so if you can get it checked out as sometimes the boost is alittle low.

Other than that be careful with the frosty weather, i think we have lost 4 rx7\'s this winter so take it easy until the weather gets clearer.

Cheers

Gurj :Thumbs-up

[ZAB]

welcome to the forum mate......
   my mate took his car to dastek to get the chip, car was runnin fine intill they got hold off it, dastek must had the car for a good few weeks messd abt at the end they sed they could\'nt do it for sum reason nt sure why... wen he got it back car was over boostin not runnin right they had bn messin abt with the hose\'s aswell.
boy is bit soft n neva end\'d up goin back  
told him i\'ll go up with him n sort it out, neva happind :mad:  
also knew few other ppl that have had problems with dastek....

[Carl]

The rotary engine runs two spark plugs per rotor chamber,with each firing independantly of each other and the timing of them is absolutely critical.
Many after market ecu\'s do not have the abilty to work successfully on the rotor motor for that reason.
As for maintenace regular oil changes are a must,every 3000 miles max or sooner if you wish but that is not too expensive as Mineral oil is reccomended,Castrol GTX is good.It is allways good to change the filter too.Plugs should be every 6000 miles.
As has been said previously start the car hot,and give it as long a run as possible becuase if there is a coolant problem/over heating  it won\'t become manifest over a short hop.During the run take it easy until the engine is properly warm,then you should be able to rev up to the redline.You will notice a slight dip in power at around 4000 rpm which should pick up again at around 4500rpm and then the car should pull well up to the redline.If it does not then there could be something wrong with the turbo\'s operation.(Quite involved)
When you get back from the run leave the car running with the bonet down and listen to see if the fans come on,let it idle for a good 5 mins,look under the car to see if any coolant leaks or over flows,signs of the engine water seals letting go.(Rebuild)
Now shut the engine off,and leave for a couple of minutes,then restart with no accelerator,it should start fine,if it struggles or fails to start then the compression could be low.(Rebuild)
Obviously if the car is smokey then it could be a turbo or engine problem,but note,on start up they do burn a little blue for a few seconds which should clear after no longer than around 30 seconds.
Pip at WGT is your nearest chap with experience on these cars,he is in Northwich in Cheshire 01606 48866.Don\'t try to use anyone but a rotary specialist as it usually ends up in tears.WGT are very good.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Carl