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So did I....

Yeah, not too bad, there\'s some to come, in a normal RX8 I\'d expect that to be well over 220+ rwhp due to the more efficient drivetrain.
 Anyway got some upgrades and tweaks to come in the next couple of weeks to help the midrange, aiming for about 155lbft@4krpm, and perhaps another 10 horsies.

Anyway, there\'s nothing wrong with an N/A renny!

Just put 210+ down at the hubs on ours again, not too shabby though high-angle/misalignment CV\'s and a 20 year old Renault van gearbox...bit more left yet too, engine still tight so didn\'t take it all the way to the top.

Unless you found/built a streetported renesis which would be nice

They are indeed :Santa

If you\'re running a standalone just ditch the FBW and fit a normal throttle body - there\'s one off a V6 ford/landy on ours, works just fine. Renesis would :censored::censored::censored::censored: all over a bridge ported \'7 motor for drivability in a road car tbh.

30w fully synth hasn\'t done our Renny\'s any harm...

Inlet manifold has been modified.
I will get a torque curve on this fairly soon.
3 rotor is expensive yes. it\'s not just the custom bits for the engine but the manifolds and throttle bodies and engine management. It all adds up.
I have stock ecu on the RX8 with tweeks!

Price for a bare engine would do me if you could give me a ballpark figure? We\'re already running a DTA S80 on the RX8 motor, and a manifold wouldn\'t be a problem

good to see your still experimenting Carl.   On the Kit car which had an original unported 6 port engine that hadnt been rebuilt at all, we managed 251 at the fly on re worx dyno which is quite a conservative dyno.  That was with a home made exhaust (89db static), big air filter and a Motec ecu as the only mods, so there is a little more to be had from the stock engine.

It doesn\'t put 251 out now, maybe 151 if it\'s lucky...:Giggle


I\'d be very interest if you have a dyno chart to see the torque curve, thinking about experimenting a bit more with our race engine (P.S, will a 3-rotor Renesis price give me heart attack?)

You want a rotary draw bender tbh, you\'ll find even if you fill it with sand and bend it the ratio of the tube ovalling from a compression bender exceeds the 0.9 ratio allowed anyway.
 Try Proformance metals for the CDS, you want their ROPT510 (it\'s their specification for the CDS, bends a little neater than most).

As clive says, it depends what you want to do, as the drag guys have different regulations to the MSA, etc, generally, 1.75" 2.5mm wall CDS will do you fine for most stuff.

Just made a steel adaptor plate, mated the counterweight from an auto to the back of a 200mm forged chromoly flywheel (aircooled vw) + clutch setup (already had those), and pressed in the right spigot bearing, on the UN5 it pretty much lines up with a ~20mm spacer in between the engine/bellhousing.

I\'m on the 3rd engine.

Side seals died twice now, albiet race use.

I knew I had it somewhere
http://www.nfauto.co.uk/options.htm
http://www.bremarauto.com/products/subaru-2wd-conversion-kit/

Hmm, not sure about that first link, I would have said the UN5 was a damned sight stronger than the UN1 is, even though they\'re based off the same architecture.

good enough for a 13Bpp single seater race car?...

It would be yes - there\'s a couple of GT40-reps out there putting 600 horsepower through even it\'s smaller UN1 variant (from the renault 21 turbo, etc) on slicks. But you\'d want a ratio change as 1st would be far too low with the little tyres on those.
 Even we never use 1st gear with 30" diameter tyres, just drop the clutch in second at the minute. (260+ horsies and 900kg with fluids and driver/co-driver onboard, so you\'d probably end up doing the same on a standard \'box with a ~400/500kg car on slicks)

However, you have to bear in mind they\'re old \'boxes now and they\'ve all had some syncro abuse by \'white van man\', not a problem if you switch to dogs though.
  The other problem is I would think it\'d probably be a bit too heavy for a competitive hillclimb machine unless it was pushing silly power and needed the strength without paying out for a top end sequential unit.

Good enough to survive the abuse a safari race car gives it over jumps and rough terrain, nice wide gears and a big 9" diff.
  Gearsets are available from albins in Oz as they use a lot in their stadium buggies, but we\'ve got Gripper over here looking at making some gears for us too, he\'s just done us a plate diff too.

It\'s a commercial van