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Images Fixed for you James lol

Hi Lisa,

I assume if we buy tickets on the day we are still allowed on the club stand?

You can do yes or what I did when I used to run the omp was used some little filters off the spare solenoids and just put them on the top of them nozzles. No need really to run them to the intake, a lot of people just leave them open but always better IMO to run the little filters up to you either way

Blue lines on the diagram here: HTH

http://www.turborx7.com/rx7vacuum.htm

Saturday only

1. Lisa & Clive
2. Mpk490p FD
3. Grant Monkhouse
4. AMH & MrC
5. Steve and Michelle Garbutt(cough rx3 cough).
6. Kevin & Sharon
7. Will66 (No rotary)
8. Ian.M
9. Chris & Tina
10. jim & heidi
11. GreySilver Beast & GrimReaper (WCC)
12. Johnf +1
13. Kees+4
14. Terri Mayne (probably FB)
15. fil_auto ( FD3s )
16. Casey
17. exiled-viking
18. FEED Addict (FD) and the misses.
19. Shaun_rx8 and partner
20. Fernandofan08
21. Patm & family
22. SmbFD3S and Partner
23.
 
Weekend

1. Shaunwil
2. Marcus & Kathy
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.

Erm ok, having read all this, where do we start Ali....

The correct way to do it would have been to take off the exhaust, turbo, manifold and rotated the engine in the opposite direction slowly so the bits moved past the exhaust port,  then rotated it again the correct way so the seals pushed them back out the exhaust port...  You shouldn\'t have rotated it so the bits got squashed in the compression chamber...

Your problem now is whether the bits have crushed into smaller pieces and damaged a side side seal or apex seal or got stuck in a spark plug etc.  I would definately remove the plugs to have a look.

The bits will now likely be in the exhaust manifold and as above will eventually come through turbo in some form increasing the risk of damaging the turbine blades or getting melted onto them causing inbalance as above and destroying themselves.....

And please tell us who the mechanic is that told you nuts and bolts can be left in a piston engine so we can steer well clear!!! haha

Where\'s your oil temp sensor?

To be honest that sounds high to me... On cruise mine is around 55-60 degrees and even hooning it it never gets above about 75.....

1. Philip, May 1992, Red, S.E London, Tunbridge Wells Mazda
2) http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3433579.htm
3) 1992 (vin 100138), ex Black sold already in UK in Yellow paint, Cuneo (Italy) now. (ex Pistoheads)
4) 1994 (I remeber, but I must check), red with Rx-8 alloy and restyling bumper, last time in Bologna (Italy) but now sold. Almost 2 gray and a red with black top in France.
5. Gavin, May 1993, Red, Horton nr Staines Berkshire, Reading Rotechniks
6. Tom, June \'93, Montego Blue, Somerset
7. Maj,1992,Red,Midlands, Tunbridge Wells Mazda
8. Jus, 1994,Black, 450hp Single turbo, Northwest
9. Nigel, Aug 1994, Silver Stone, Plymouth, Herbert Robinson Mazda Cambridge
10. Ricco, 1995, Red, Worcs.
11. SmbFD3S Aug 1992 Silver Stone, 500bhp ish Single turbo, Midlands
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.

Hi mate,

Yes just cut the wire at the connector and then connect a thicker gauge cable to this and run it to the body as a new earth.  Problem with the existing is the 16 gauge cable is too long and too thin to cope with the 044 and will heat up due to the amperage.  Mines been running over 3 years no problems like this.

Yes keep the original fuel pump relay in.  This ensure it acts like stock setup i.e. priming for 5 seconds and not running when engine off. All thats happening is instead of having the fuel pump as a load on it, it has your new relay to feed your 044.  It keeps things simple rather than having a new manual switch or connecting into other circuits.... Just connect a jumper wire as shown to disable the speed relay circuit. This ensures your new relay always sees the full 12V switching circuit.

Hope this helps

This is now SOLD

New Week Bump

Hey all,

I\'m selling (hopefully) my Master Power T64 P Trim Turbo.  I\'m now after something different for going forward (Comparable size but flows more than a T04S) Positive boost by 2500rpm and full boost at 4100rpm (depending on your ports)

So, basically specs are:-

Compressor
0.70 A/R
64mm Inducer
91mm Exducer
4" Air Inlet
7 Blades

Turbine
0.96 A/R
74mm Inducer
64.5mm Exducer
10 Blades

T4 Inlet
3" V-Band for downpipe

In full working condition and will include the already fitted 10mm drain and AN4 Oil feed adaptor as shown on pics.

No problems whatsoever, turbine blades as seen in pics have tiny dents in them after my engine spat part of an apex seal out but this will make absolutely no difference.  No in-out Shaft play and side to side normal for a journal turbo.

This has only done 3500 miles from brand new purchased from Ed on here, and majority of the time ran at 0.8 bar.  My car was mapped on a streetport with no WI at 1.1 on this turbo and made 460bhp at flywheel.

Anyway pics below and i\'m looking for £450 + Delivery or thereabouts please

Thanks for looking.

The top of yours looks closed off though?  Are you saying this is open?  If it\'s open you wouldn\'t get pressure at all as the fuel will just be flowing out through the pump and out the top?? Yes it should have a cap nut on the end of that.....

Interested in the down pipe, with the used gasket & bung if you still have it ?

Sorry mate this has now gone

Downpipe Still available now £100 + P&P or local delivery/meet up is an option if you prefer....