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Quick update:
 
All sorted now, this noise was the flywheel being slightly loose on the shaft and catching on part of the gearbox housing.
 
The main bearing is not how I expected as it is a metal cylinder sheath with oil holes with oil running thourgh it constantly.
 
The T above stands for the thickness of the sheath.
 
You can change these with out having to dismantle the engine for anyone that would like to know! lol.
 
I is happy again!!!!

Right, uploading the video of the rattling is not going to happen with mobile broadband and propper broadband aint happening till the end of the month.
 
So I have decided to remove the gearbox again in a couple of weekends when I\'m next off.
 
It could be the fly wheel is not seating correctly on the shaft as I have noticed play in the fly wheel when I was under the car the other day inspecting what I could. The only leverage I could get was an up and down motion, which seemed to seat it better for the run I took it on after, but its back to normal since that run.
 
If the rear bearing has gone, I\'m thinking a replacement is needed obviously.
 
I have been on rotary art who seem to have these but I canna make heads or tails atm of what the differences are:
T=1.980mm yellow or T=1.983mm green or T=1.986mm brown or T=1.989mm black or T=1.992mm blue
T=1.988mm yellow or T=1.991mm green or T=1.994mm brown or T=1.997mm black and T=2.000mm blue
 
What is T? Is it thickness of bearing? Is there a quick way of telling once the fly is off with out removing the bearing?
 
 
This issue can only be one of the above two other than gearbox failure, but the sound appears to come from the fly end after using the metal bar method of a stethoscope to pin point where the sound is origonating.
 
I am hoping to find out what bearing I need by midday on the first day strip down, so I can order it and have it in the post asap to be refitted with out have the rex on axle stands for too long.
 
 
 
Also on another note, are there any rotary specialists in south wales? Even just for parts at the least?

not for me, its not a a ticking sound, more like the sound you get if a bit of metal was catching on the clutch pressure plate fins.
 
Still struggling to get the vid uploaded, I need to get propper broadband! lol.

Tried getting the footage up but it keeps failing, will keep trying.
 
I have ruled out ancilleries (water pump, alt, power steering), took belts off and played around, noise still there with them disconnected.
 
So I\'m still at a loss as to what it is, one thing I didn\'t check properly was the release bearing. I remember turning it by hand and it turned very smooth and seemed tight.
 
Any other ideas?

Ah dude, let me know what you find with yours, I\'ve just got some footage, and the middle section makes it sound hell of a lot worse than it is. I\'m gonna go and remove the power steering belt now to see if its that! As the sound seems to come from there, but it seems to echo around the engine so difficult to say where exactly the sound is coming from!
 
Will get the footage up asap! Should be up later in a bit! lol

I\'ll try and get some footage of the problem.
 
Yeah the sound speeds up with rpm, probably why it is less noticable at higher rpm. I hope its not equive to the crank as that will probably mean new engine or big rebuild.
 
I\'m gonn try undoing the clutch whilst still on to see if the clutch is misaligned or something but I may be picking at loose straws...but at least that will be another thing I can check off the list! lol.
 
Haven\'t got a spare box atm, and when I did I have I sold it as it was taking up space..lol.

Car: 1993 FD3, non sequential set up.
 
I\'ve had an issue for a wee while now. Whe the the engine is running I can hear quiet a loud noise like the flywheel or pulleys are catching on something, to me it reminds me of sticking a lollipop stick in the back wheel of your push bike except it is a metallic sound. It quietens down the higher the rpm, and when you are in gear and driving, but if you come off the throttle and put it back on you hear it catch again.
 
Now, I\'ve taken it to a local garage and he couldn\'t find anything after removing the gearbox, clutch and fly wheel. When he put it back together it the noise went away for a couple of months. He was not a rotary engine specialist so took his opinions with a very large pinch of salt, especially when he spoke about the engine like it was a piston. Durr.
 
I then took it apart myself, back down including the flywheel. I couldn\'t see anyting worn or catching so put it all back together and the noise is still there. The reason I keep taking the flywheel off is because on first install of the engine I forget to torque up the fly wheel and it made this noise its making now, and then fell off.
 
Anyone shed any light on this? I am starting to think it could be a worn rear bearing, but I would have thought the engine would run like a sack of poo, but the engine still runs fine, with no loss of power, I have even restricted boost to 9psi to keep it a little safe as well. Engine also idles fine.
Only other thing I can think of is clutch or gearbox. Reason gearbox is because I do not know if the garage refilled the box up full, and maybe if it was half a litre short, maybe something has given inside? Again I am not sure about the clutch as it looked fine, no cracks, excessive wear marks, etc...
 
Getting bummed about it, as she looks nice, but sounds like a tramp driving locally!

Off hand no, try the wanted section as peeps seem to be dismantling diffs. Or try the usual, like MRP, jimmys, rotary art, etc

What you done? chewed them up? or they broke>?

Maybe a little late, but rotaryart do replacement mirror glass for the wing mirrors. They are glued on to the black plastic. The black plastic is a backing that comes round the edges of the glass mirror.

To dismantle a wing mirror, you need to remove the glass, I have yet to do this with out actually breaking the glass, then in the middle of the black plastic housing (for the glass) there is a little screw, you undo this, which will release the backing housing, after you have unclipped the 2 white worms that allow the electric motor to adjust the mirror position. If you pull the worms out the motor housing dont worry as they can be refitted into the housing (take housing apart and push back into place - obv after taking the worms off the black plastic housing).

Dark night, there is very limited space but I think you may just have enough space behind the glass/electric motor housing/brackets, but you\'re looking at the space right near the front of the wing mirror itself, rather than directly underneath. Had I seen this thread earlier I would have taken pictures for you. Personally I would want something that would only accomodate something about half the size you want.

Star!!! Wish you had done the gearbox oil before I did mine! I had to mash the bottle into the gearbox cove to try and refill!

Which plugs do you unscrew on the diff? You got a pic? I think I remember seeing 3 plugs on mine, one low down (obv the drain), and then there\'s one half way up, and one at the top. Which one is the fill line? The middle one?

I\'ve been told by my friendly mot tester, that this year its come in to effect that your car will fail if it does not have a factory (oe) exhuast. Its to combat all the cars out there with loud exhuasts. Ok, maybe we dont\' go round out silly oclock round the villages with booming exhausts, but I see plenty of small cars with these super load exhausts going round which is annoying.

I did forget to ask him whether my emmisions check came up on the screen though. Will try and remember for next year. I had heard it was late FD\'s had to be emmisions checked, and not early FD\'s like mine (1993). I dread to think how mine would be on an emmisions test as it doesn\'t have all the emmisions gubbins from factory now! lol

Any one know what resistors are needed to fool the rats nest plugs into thinking that they are plugged into the solonoids?

I read somewhere I needed 300 Ohms resistors, but trying to search for them seems to make them elusive. Plus I can\'t find listings of resistors in ohms.

Nothing really to look out for. Just try and not bodge the vaccum pipes like I have. lol. Mind my bodge on them is only temp untill I can get round to ordering some decent hoses to replace it all with. Also looking at having a mechanical boost valve so I can make the factory boost control redundant. Nothing wrong with the factory, but its a set map, so still dips in around 4500rpm.

Recommend you use an old wire clothes hanger to wire open the secondary turbo control flap, and also the pre control flap next to it (both under the car), as it looks better and is sturdier.

the plastic bracket is clipped/glued to the plastic pipe. It shouldn\'t cause a leak there unless its cracked the pipe.
 
Only takes two min to take off and inspect, inside out.
 
You still getting the blowing exhaust sound? Pin pointed where its coming from yet?

Yeah, sorry, got the water level and ECU sender connected thats on the water filler housing block. The sender under the oil filter is not connected. Car runs fine, but water temp gauge on the dash does not work, although low level warning does.
 
(I keep speed reading the posts and mis read filler and filter in a few posts above! sorry!)