Messages

9 times out of 10... apex seal damage I bet is down to carbon build up on the rotor housings or incorrect fuelling (detonation/knock) due to running modifications without the correct fuelling/engine management tuning to go with them.

9 times out of 10... water seal damage I bet is down to using the incorrect fluids causing deterioration and corrosion. Uprated "performance" pressure release caps on the coolant system... which are actually rated too high for the standard water seals. (A good example of how a cheap £20 modification can cost you ALOT more in the long run).

9 times out of 10... overheating (and warping of engine components) I bet is down to a crappy AST, still having the exhaust CAT\'s on (especially pre-CAT) and not uprating the inadequate cooling system. Get yourself a better radiator such as a Koyo and a cooling thermostat such as a Sard one.

Anyone disagree?

Also... it\'s about HOW you drive your car.

They are made to be driven hard. Rotary engines need a "blow out" as such during every drive. WOT all the way up the rev counter. Stops the carbon from building up in an engine that is designed and always tuned to run rich! Driving these cars sensibly (low revs, low throttle) because the owner is worried about a rebuild... is actually one of the worst things you can do to a rotary engine. Shooting yourself in the foot so to speak.

It\'s OK to drive them sensibly, but every run, give the engine a good old clean out. When you first do it... you\'ll see loads of crap come out the exhaust. The more you do it... the cleaner the exhaust emissions (engine) gets. Mine\'s as clean as a whistle.

When buying a rotary... you should ask the question. Has this car been tracked, driven hard, thrashed, etc. If the answer is yes and it runs fine, buy it. If it hasn\'t. Walk away. LOL. The exact OPPOSITE to conventional piston type engines.

Just my 2p worth.

I agree with Leon...

I have a UK spec FD which is my daily driver. 50-100 miles a day. Had it for a year doing that mileage. Done 115k miles on chassis and 50-60k on rebuilt engine. Compression are spot on. Sure it eats petrol... but never had any problems with it.

If I was to keep it as a "weekend" car or a "summer" car... I bet I would have alot more problems with it.

I seriously rate using the CORRECT spark plug combination also... 7\'s leading, 9\'s trailing. Not 9\'s all round.

Just a quick one really guys. Is the clutch mechanism on a RX7 FD a mechanical cable type or a hydraulic type with both slave and master clutch cylinders?

If hydraulic - how much of a problem have the master and slave cylinders been on the clutch system of an FD? Is it common for them to go faulty? Or are they pretty much spot on?

Thanks,
Kyle. :WaveBye

I can recommend M.A.E Electronics. Have a full closure system on mine and love it.

No, never had cooling issues. To be honest the idea was to keep the set-up running as cool as possible without it running too cool. Like I said the thermostat is manufactured by Sard. I\'ve ran it for a few months now with the Koyo performance aluminium radiator in that set-up and no problems whatsoever, although maybe a little richer in fuel... but hard to say as I had all of my engine mods installed at the same time so this could be down to PFC, WGT mapping, etc.

I THINK the Sard starts to open at 75 degrees. So a little cooler. I always thought that the optimum operating temp of a rotary was 75-85 degrees. The fans are like an emergency feature so to speak.

Yeah as I thought. Whilst driving, mine settles around the 75 degrees mark. In traffic rises to 80-85 degrees mark. May rise up to 90 degrees +, but would have to be sat still in traffic a while.

Wouldn\'t call this overcooling though. Or would you?

With overcooling does overfuelling come?

I\'ll take it out at lunch and double check I have that right...

Mine always sits between 70 and 80, hardly ever over... due to having installed a Koyo performance aluminium radiator and a Sard cool running thermostat. Best mods I did. Before that I was seeing mid 80\'s during driving and mid 90\'s stuck in traffic... where fans kick in to cool back down.

OK... question is simple really. Heard alot about Knightsports and BNR uprated/upgraded/high flow performance twin turbocharger packs suitable for my 1993 RX7 FD.

But... where can I actually get them from? How much would I be looking at new? Second hand?

Are there any other companies out there apart from Knightsports and BNR worldwide that can supply them?

Finally... are there any UK companies that will take a second hand set of stock OE turbochargers and high flow them/upgrade them/uprate them to a Stage 3 spec?

Thanks all.

Link to Santa Pod event...

http://www.japshow.co.uk/index.html

October 7th!

Yeah was a good time all round. Still suprised that me and the missus made it down as we had a very heavy night on Saturday! Hence looking like death. Hell... first time i\'ve ever attended a car show and not cleaned my car! Was filthy!

Yeah you certainly started something on the way home with your missus driving... mine was like... "why don\'t you let me drive yours?", "don\'t you trust me driving it?", "bet I could drive it better than you!"... etc... etc... etc. LOL.

She must have promised you very rude things, that\'s all I can say! If you changed your alloys to expensive ones, you wuld have to at least ban her from parking it up! Kerb-age!

Not sure when Santa Pod event is on... will take a look at lunch and post up.

When is rolling road? This month or next? And where at? How much? Etc.

Kyle Out!

To be honest... sounds like you or someone else overfilled the coolant? The expansion tank is designed to leak coolant out of a port on it when there is too much coolant in the system. Especially after the engine and coolant has been heated up after a drive.

Also check that your engine has the standard coolant caps on the AST and the engine thermostat housing. Uprated ones, increase the pressure in the coolant system so that the only way to release the pressure is to force a leak elsewhere in the system, normally either the expansion tank route or a weakened hose... ejecting coolant at the same time. Whereas normally the correct rated caps allow the release of it all via themselves. Worst case scenario is that uprated caps can blow out your standard water seals (dependant upon how uprated the caps are). Suprising how much damage a £20 uprated "performance" pressure cap can do! Always ditch for new OE parts.

Good event guys. Good to meet a couple of you. Well done with the pictures too mate! Some good ones.

We should get ourselves down to the Santa Pod event next month!

Thanks for that guys...

What do you guys think to the gains you had fitting the Efini parts over the original? Noticable difference? Or BS?