Messages

no worries mate.

yeah i did the same trying to get the switches out today incase you did need them .

haha.

:rollin

well if you want them my paypal is matt4it@googlemail.com

i can send tomorrow before the post office closes.

Matt

£20 the pair including postage.  hows that sound?

Matt

are you talking about FC or FD.

i have FC doorcards, so have both driver and passenger switches available, should yours have fatal issues.

Matt

Im changing my gearbox and want to know what type of oil is best, grade etc., how much is needed. and if its the same as the oil used in the diff.

Matt

Oh, i watched that clip of a rotary truck, with a flywheel exploding on youtube...... il leave the flywheel alone i think!

Changing my gearbox fairly soon, and was considering either lightening the flywheel or changing for a lighter one.

Do ALL flywheels, (apart from factory) need to have acounterweight fitted to the other end.  Ive been informed you have to take the sump off to fit the weight.  

For an EGi.

Matt

I was doing about 50 - 55 mph back from santa pod (120 miles), most the way, and used just over 1/4 tank.

I read somewhere that 56mph is the optimum speed for mininmal fuel consumption.

I had my Egi for just over a year and its a complex relationship, sometimes we disagree and she breaks, sometimes we drift around roundabouts and understand each other, but im glad it was the first jap / rear wheel drive car ive owned.

sounds like its got the best cold feed it can have, got any pics?

oh, i see.

nevermind then.

:3gears-rh

baffles from exhaust port? how do u remove these?

where are you talking about exactly, ive had the thermal reactor removed, is this what you mean?

where does your cold air feed come up from, it theis with a K & N cone filter?

I dont use mine for track ,well not yet, i definately saw an improvement when i took the thermal reactor off.

haha, i havent been asked that but the porsche 924 does look similar.

It removes excess drain from the engine, all belts to power steering pumps, A/C etc are extra items for the engine to run.

When i got my car the air pump was gone already, but imagine it felt a bit more free once it was taken off.

what hadnt been done is the thermal reactor / heat exchange hadnt been taken off. this is a box in the exhaust after downpipe, it uses an air supply from air pump. the idea is it cools down exhaust gases before emmiting them into the atmosphere.

mine was blowing on a flange, so had the box cut out and a straight pipe welded in.

assuming yours is the same, and you havent got any cats anywhere, this can be removed and i found does free up the car a bit.  this must have some gain i imagine 10 -15 BHP.

you will have to get a dual alternator pulley, and double up the alternator belts, to keep the required tension on the water pump pulley (at the bottom).

Im sure another member on here will tell you about blocking off the air pipes  from air pump removal aswell.  mine was already done so i cant be certain what needs blocking off.

is this the earths in the boot that you re-earthed?

there has to be one behind the unit somewhere, this is where mine is causing problems, with a small / bang on the dash the light will go out then it will slowly come back.