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I feel stupid but what is "stoich"?

Stoich is an abreviation for Stoichametric. If an engine manages to burn all the fuel inducted rather than chuck some out of the exhaust, the fuel air ratio is said to be Stoichameteric. In normal petrol that is 14.7 - 1,  i.e. if you induct 14.7 lbs of air and 1 lb of petrol into an efficient engine it will burn all the available fuel and no Oxygen will be exhausted.

Driven in the same manor as an equivalent piston engined car of comparable power - they aren\'t that far off in terms of fuel consumption (my wifes 300zx does about the same MPG on an average run)

Yeh I agree with that.  Had an S2000 for a number of years. Has been car of the year and gets great praise from the motoring press and motoring fans, mainly because its a great car, but driven with gusto you be lucky to get 20mpg and generally at pace you\'ll get 15 - 16 mpg.

Rotaries generally use above average fuel because they are very very very fast :yes:yes

i wouldnt trust the base map mate, i added an exhaust with de cat, new filters and the apexi base map, found out at rolling road it was running rich on idle, extreamly lean on boost and with the decat i had a few boost spikes and some other running problems, took it to have it remaped and its running alot better now, its faster, better on fuel and thats running less boost than the base map

Its funny how the base map runs on different engines, but I wouldnt trust the Apexi base map with a decat.  My RX7 runs fine on the base map. Only mods are SMIC, HKS induction and HKS catback.  I have a full datalogit and innovate mapping kit and all the figures show fine. It idles at 14.8, cruises at 15-16 and peaks at 11 at WOT. I know a good tuner would lean it out a tad but the car doesn\'t do a lot of miles, sails through the MOT and goes great.
Having just said that I just sold it......what a ejit !!!

someone should put that forward to him then if no one else has already!

I guess if Pip is sending out all these replacements he should have a good idea that something is amiss :yes

Sad to say i had the exact same problem when i fitted mine some time ago, i think it was not welded where it should have been, phoned Pip and he sent a replacement very quick,
Bob

Me too . Seems to be a common theme.  Pip did a great job on my rebuild, the only problem was a leaking AST which he fitted.  The neck outlet was poorly welded. Pip sent a replacement without question, but he made need a quality check on his AST supplier !!

If your handy with a soldering iron there does look to be -some meat- left on that wire in the sensor you might be ableto get a wire onto it. it does look like its one of those wonderful magic single wire sensors :Giggle

Yeh happended to me, same thing. As above, beg, borrow or steal a soldering iron , 2 minute job.

Without a few more clues we could speculate all day. What was the condition of the bearing/grease on inspection ?.  My first choice would be grease contamination , dirt, grit etc takes little time to destroy bearings.

Poor fitment of the first set, cheap chinese replacement bearings, poor wheel alignment, overpacked with grease, wheel out of balance,  large wheel spacers or loads of track time are a few that spring to mind.  Has to be something fairly major to wear a set of bearings in a year

Had this diagram in my car file since I installed my Toad Alarm. The exact same pick up points will suffice for your indicators if required.
Green / Black for left - Green - White for right.

The vast majority of problems with indicators that flash fast are either a blown bulb or a bad earth.  I believe that most flasher units use the same circuit to control flasher speed and just switch the output to left side or right therefore the flasher unit could be fine. If the bulbs are OK check for corrosion inside the bulb holders or poor wiring causing bad connections.

Oil from the turbo\'s or brake fluid leaking from the clutch master cylinder are possibilities. Grab a big torch and feel/ look around for obvious leaks.

Easiest way to locate a drain on a car battery ( assuming the battery is A1 ) is with a multimeter. Set the mutimeter to AMPS ( not milliamps ). Remove the earth terminal of the battery and put the multimeter leads in series i.e. one on the battery terminal and one on the removed earth clamp. The meter will register any current flowing. Ensure everything is switched off, boot and doors closed etc. Then its a case of removing fuses/ leads until the drain ceases.

Completed that very job 2 months ago. Powerflex front and rear bush kit and a set of 6 pillowballs from RHDJapan. Pillowsballs were easy, as stated , threaded rod and large sockets were all that was required .
Bushes were more difficult but once I got a technique sorted they went ok. I used a deep hole cutter to cut through the rubber between the inner metal sleeve and the outer metal skin of the bush. Carefully hacksawed through the outer sleeve in two places and the sleeve slipped out. Urethane bushes going in is a no brainer, just lots of grease.

The cost of shipping from the US seems to have risen sharply over the last few years. Prior to the RX7 I spent 2 years restoring a 1980 Corvette and was constantly shipping stuff over.  Shipping costs were regulary in the $20 - $40 bracket for air freight of the smaller items. A few weeks ago I found the  website of a US company that do urethane bushes for roll bar end links, save me spending £100 on new end links I would just change the bushes at a cost of $15 for 4 bushes ( weighing ...what 150 grammes at most ? ), but they quoted me $75 shipping Needless to say I declined the offer !

Yeh used them several times...no issues whatsoever,  although I would make best efforts at the moment to locate what is required nearer home as the shipping costs are painful :2eek