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I used rivnuts, small alloy bolts and thin carbon sheet to make little covers - sealed underneath so no water gets in the door.
Easier than having to weld/ repaint etc. Depends on the use of the car.

That video was done by mounting the camera on my towbar there are some of my RX from a few years ago but sound from the camera is not good and it was a mild port,small single turbo back then.
They are all under my YouTube account/Chanel - as well my Mg stuff, and that sounds lovely too.

I\'m not sure a rotary will match thrill of a v8 or similar. Even my old MG ZT V8 sounded awesome. Check out this video on YouTube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqmLVuhI-6w&feature=youtube_gdata_player


In comparison my mild tune rx7 sounded a bit flat, I\'m sure the new big tune motor will sound better but not like that TVR video.
The 3 rotor Rx8\'s at Daytona sounded crazy but \'nice\'.

They do look really good. I love attention to detail like that on a car build. Good stuff.

I\'ll make it a bit easier, page 15 should show a bit more, and this is in there somewhere. There are the start what the car will when you first strip as well. All of mine was done at home, by me in a normal house garage so it\'s not been down the sprayers as a shell - I hand painted that flaming interior and cage with a fecking brush. And anyone who has seen my garage knows it\'s so narrow I can only open the doors half way before they touch the wall. I spent more time sat in the car working then out. I fitted the seat by threading it through the rear hatch and cage!
Anyway: T\'other side:

It is a bit of a safety issue with cages and normal seatbelts in roadcars, even with padding it\'ll be a massive thump.
Anyway, noticed you are a guest so probably can\'t get to see my thread so here are a couple of pertinent pictures of a stripper interior. One with just the basic electrics and also with the busier stuff for my steering ECR, etc.

[ATTACH]50158[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]50159[/ATTACH]

See my thread - link in sig below. Lots of pics, but start near the end and work backwards in the thread. However, IMO, it can look scruffy unless you really tidy the standard loom that is revealed and clean up all the excess carpet glue that sticks to the body etc. Mine is a bit busy now with steering ECU etc but without those it can look very tidy.

VHT brand paint. 6 good colour choices, bright and durable. Try //www.frost.co.uk
They sell it along with a lot of other useful kit for restorers.

360x32 6 pots underneath team dynamic pro race 1.2. Good wheel for clearence. 4 pot rear brake kit also availble.

Pull the actuator out of the body through the wiper motor hole and you should then be able to free it. Probably dirty or needs oiling or has a little kink. Should be quite free to move in your hand. If it is buggered then it may be cheaper to fit a single wiper system like I have on mine then get a Mazda part.
And the single wiper is still effective in the rain at over 120mph, or 8000rpm in 4th!

I got all the sensors out the hubs without breaking them but you need to be patient. I had the hubs off the car and once everyone was unbolted I sprayed them with halfords \'freeing\' oil. Gently gripped them with a pair of large hand grips and gently twisted them left and right. By going slow and keeping them oiled eventually you will crack the corrosion holding them together and you can steadily twist and pull them out more keenly. Eventually a gently wack with a big screwdriver pops them out.

The wiper arm actuator under the scuttle is bolted to the back of the wiper motor. You will need to get the wiper blades off and the splined sections unbolted from the top the scuttle so the mechanism will move when you have undone the motor. Then you expose the bolt on the back of the motor to free it from the wiper mechanism.
Getting back together and in the right wiper parked position is more fun.

Just thought, you can also see how the rear wing is mounted onto the bodywork and not the tailgate. I use the wing stays to push and pull the car around the garage or even up the trailer - you can have a couple of guys pushing the car by the rear wing no problem at all.

I can find these pictures to give an idea of the fitment (no lexan in this one). As you can see it follows the contours of the body very well. (Yellow car - green is still steel)




I have manhandled the different hatches around and you can feel the weight difference between the Atomic one and the Seibon, the Seibon is heavier.

1. Lee Mills
2. Shaun Wilmer (shaunwil)
3. Marcus Dale (marcusd666)
4. Steve Garbutt x2
5. Gary Dickens (FEED Addict)
6. Diana Osborne (in her own FD)
7.Clarky+?
8.Adrian Reed +? (TiddlesRX7)
9. karl_tate +?
10. Macer
11.chrisjdm
12. Nik da Greek
13. Prof
14. Chris Riordan + 1 (aka CJR)
15. Ann & Neil (aka AMH & MrC)
16. Stuart Harrison ( Grinder ) and maybe + 1
17. Dean Murrell (Frost) maybe +1
18. Brett Williams (Brett)
19. Ricco
20.Paul
21. Mark (MPK490P)
22. Brian(Kiwimazda) Can I bring the westy?
23. SmbFD3S x 2
24. Bish - might even have it mapped by then!!
25. Gurj (GSB876) - no longer rotary owner but will be there
26. Mark (1990_fc3s_t2) +1
27. Gandy + 1
28. Najiru + 1
29. Kris walsh (AKA FD3S Efini)
30. Marc and Karissa
31. Richard Christie (Christiez) +1
32. Tom + a few others
33. fil_auto ( Phil + 1 poss?! )
34. probedb
35.Dave Downs (gonzodave) +1 (the missus)
36. Jessi + 1/2
37. Davehg +1
38. jono fd3 (just me for the weekend at the mo)
39. casey
40. CrissyUK
41. TC (weekend +1 -possibly more). Also interested in running in the Sprint layout described on the Rotorstick website