Messages

Are yours hitting the metalwork underneath the lights?

mine did, out came the grinder and a wee bit of paint to prevent rust, problem solved

glad you got home OK,

Sorry, i\'d presumed you were talking about an FD not an FC lol. D\'OH!!

isnt the idea that you get better performance without a BOV than with one? Hence raving cars not running them

I always figured that they were there to get rid of the pressurised air on the downstream side of the turbo, therefore when it goes to spool again it can do it faster as it isn\'t having to work against pressure??

Ooh, we\'re doing this again!! It\'s been a while since this was brought up last.

The fluttering noise you are after is the result of what is more commonly known in engineering circles as compressor surge. The compressed air has nowhere to go without a BOV when you lift off (the throttle body is shut) and so forces its way back through the turbine the wrong way. The noise you hear is the air flow changing direction many times as it pressurises one side then the other of the turbo.

There is an epic thread on here somewhere about if this is good or not, but from what I know of North Sea gas compressors, it\'s something to be avoided as you can knacker bearings inside the turbo.

Just my 2 penneth, and I know that this will be answered by loads of peeps saying "i don\'t run one", but my opinion is keep it on. You get arguably better performance with it as well.

graeme

i presume you have managed to get home OK!!

we don\'t have afm\'s - we have MAPs! And in anycase, you\'re engine will just revert to working as though it\'s naturally aspirated, it\'ll pull air in via the vacuum generated in the throttle body through the other end of the intercooler piping.

a new one is about 100 squid iirc, best getting a working one off a breaker on here or fduk  

EDIT: talking rubbish lol

When you pull the handle, does it appear that the handle wants to open on one side only? if that makes sense lol.

I had this just before xmas, the splines on the inside of the mechanism tend to bend and don\'t engage the latch - only option is a new mechanism unfortunately.

HOWEVER, before that happened I had troble with it not opening from the inside, turned out a 10p coin had slipped down into the handle and wouldn\'t let it engage properly. Take the door apart for a look - 10min job

checked all the vac hoses? Any issues appearing around the 4k mark tend to set off rats nest alarm bells in my head.

graeme

In no particular order...

Stella, tequila, JD and coke, absinthe (on occasion), magners/strongbow/kopperberg

I drink Stella because most other lagers are pish. If you\'re gonna do something, do it properly I say

graeme

[Think that may be a mith]

Think that may be a mith.... I have had many Rotarys and have worked on many more, i\'ve never seen a water seal fail, its always the housings that seem to go due to dodgy design / water seal groove corrosion also i\'ve left flooded low compression engines for months and never had an issue. So i think its what ever helps you sleep at night

I personally hate the idea of the Apex seal springs going flat when one is parked pushed in for any length of time. But!! Again that may be a mith but its the one that makes most sense to me after my first hand experience of these motors...

Thing is i bought a car a bit back that had stood for ten years without any prep, once a few things where done (change fuel/ oil/ battery) it ran fine, So as i say do as much or as little as you want, i really don\'t think a winter/year is allot of time to lay a car up.

You willing to bet an engine on that? hehe

I thought i\'d popped an apex seal a few years ago when I was back visiting the folks in Edinburgh at xmas. Left her outside in the snow (and I mean she got encased in it - couldn\'t even see the bonnet over the drift!) and on firing she only ran on one rotor. Needless to say, I bricked it but it must have frozen in place. Couple of minutes at idle and a few small/one massive backfires later all was well again

only thing i\'d add is do the 3k shutdown method when turning her off...

Hold the accelarator at 3k rpm, turn off, as the engine dies put the foot right to the floor. This keeps the rotors spinning and gets any remaining fuel out the housings. If its left in for a while it will eat the water seals = bad

graeme

We supply the GAZ units.  There are a good number of our customers out there with them on, and they are an excellent compromise between a race damper and a road damper.  
 
You have a choice:
Single adjustable (changes both bump and rebound at a set proportion)
With Top mounts £936
Without Top mounts (uses your existing ones) £648
 
These prices are including VAT, Postage and Packing is £15
We can fit them for you too.

i\'m one of these customers and have to say that they are fantastic!! well worth the $$$

for oil just go to Halfords and get their own brand stuff (comes in a blue bottle), its not in the engine long enough to justify (IMO) getting the stupidly expensive stuff like Royal Purple. Been running that for 4 years and had no problem.

For plugs, 9s would be fine unless you are running stupid power in which case you may need to go for a colder plug (e.g. a 7 or an . Clive is selling NGK plugs on mazdarotaryparts.com for £33.80 for all four which is what i always use.

HTH

graeme

yep, you\'ve flooded it. Don\'t start it just to move it around. If you can, just push it, if not take a quick drive.

Whip out the plugs and let them dry, take the EGI fuse out and crank the engine to flush out the fuel. Job\'s a good \'un