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Well they did it again!

Fastest 3/4 Chassis, La Anais

1.13 @ 60\'
3.04 @ 330\'
4.65 @ 660\'
6.058 @ 1000\'
7.272 sec @ 183.66 Miles per hour

This is a 13B!! Of course from Puerto Rico.

http://www.agracingvideo.com/videos/salinas/anais/anaislow.wmv

I ended up putting my oil cooler in front of the radiator, right behind the grill. I can definitely see the size difference between a 12A and a 13B in these cars. I really like your engine mount, good that you decided to keep the rubber mounts otherwise it would vibrate your eyes out. I speak from experience on this one.

One more thing I discovered is that since the rear end is a torque arm type suspension the rear universal joint moves back and forth as you load the car so be sure to take that into account. The best way to take the measurement for the driveshaft is to load the rear end as heavy as you dare and then take the measurement. Hope this helps.

BTW it is looking really good!!!!!!

My lovely wife got me 2 of these and I knew nothing about it. Now I know that woman loves me!

Well the money is in the bank and I can finally start building this beast. I will keep you guys posted.

As for fun on the Autobahn... lets just say that none of the local 911s or M3s will ever try to get in my way again. I topped the car out at 275 kph, 5th gear @ 9k RPM. Lots of fun.

Its a little heavier but not much. It the engine were moved about 10 cm further back the cars balance will be perfect.

Well what I meant by SA was a first generation RX-7 oil sump. The reason I had to make the tunnel taller was that I am running a carburator setup and I was trying to get it as level as possible. Also I wanted to keep the driveshaft angle in check.

As to the clutch hydraulic cilinder... I used the stock pedal box but I modified it. I welded on a piece of steel to the top of the pedal, I then welded a box that holds the cilinder in the opposite direction than the stock RX-7, then I drilled a hole on the new metal on the pedal and installed a pin to actuate the master. I then ran my clutch hydraulic line through the firewall.

There is no getting around having to cut the firewall so just get used to the idea. You had asked where the sump will end up in relation to the crossmember, the sump ends up in front. I found out that MOROSO back in the USA makes a reversed sump with the actual sump at the rear, this could help bring the engine towards the rear and even lower in the frame. With that sump you could probably use the stock engine mounts but you will have to move the parking brake handle and fabricate a new transmission crossmember.

For me none of this matters anymore because I am building it up as a full racing chassis for this coming summer... can you say peripheral port nitrous?

keep the questions coming I will gladly help out. just keepin´it real... real fast.

Well the engine is mounted directly to the chassis and after shortening the shifter mechanism by 4 inches it still ended up further back than the stock location. Quick tip. Use an SA oil pan, cut the stock engine mounts on the crossmember, do not cut the original transmission mounts(they line up perfect) and the top of the transmission tunnel will have to be widened and made taller.

Good luck and welcome to the rotary GM machines thread. :cheers

do rotarys create pulses like piston engines do to scavnege the last bits of air from the plenum? Piston engines do it ue to the movement of the valves and pistons and combustion chamber shape(although carefully shaped runners also help to scavenge air).

Yes it works exactly the same but different because on a piston engine the air stops moving then it starts again. In a rotary it is moving in one direction but it still has the reflecting pulse.

So in short... yes.

Mira papa\'. Quick question. Do you have any connections back to P.R.? I neen an anti-bruto for my transmission but I can\'t seem to get a hold of one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Or he could try to refurbish the gear.

Heres some info on it fron the Mazdaspeed site.
http://www.mazspeed.com/steeringgear.htm

I had forgotte I was dealing with wrong hand drive cars here. My bad. lol.

There is a company called CP Racing over in Canada that makes a steering rack conversion kit for the First Gen RX-7. I beleive the entire kit costs something around $400 US Dollars. I have helped install one of these in the past and they are a breeze. Hell if you look at the picture and the cars frame long enough you should be able to figure out how to build the mod yourself(for a lot less money).

But that taper on mazda rotors was on the 12A and early 13B rotors. All rotors after 1986 to include renesis have no taper. Theres an SAE paper somewhere that explains the reasons why they did away with the offset. I think I remember it stating that it makes for a more stable flame front if the volume across the entire chamber was even.

Notice the huge offset of the combustion chamber on that rotor?

I am looking to install a Ford 9 inch or an 8.8 from a Mustang GT. 4 link suspension from Competition Engineering and a nice set of Mickey Thompson DOT Slicks.

BTW I just received a beautiful gift from a new buddy... 2 Turbo II rotor housings and a Turbo II transmission that needs to be rebuilt. The rebuild issue is not really a problem since even If I got a good one I would have rebuilt it before racing it anyway. I am going to use the 2 new rotor housings to build a nice Peripheral Port. I am expecting to get somewhere around 320-325 HP at the wheels. I am going to need it if I want to set the european all motor rotary record.

Does anyone happen to know what the fastest times are with the different porting types here in europe?

Make it 2 pints and I\'ll see what I can do.