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Yeah, I sorted it.

What were you having issues with?

Looks very similar to mine... Is it an XS Power one? Mine flames lots on high rev gearchanges however no damage to bumper to date (probably as high rev gear changes mean the flame doesnt touch the bumper due to travelling at speed heh)

Yeah, I think it\'s a rebranded XS Power one. Sounds awesome and stupidly loud! HKS DP, straight through mid pip and the rear section.

Not too fussed about it cooking the bumper as it\'s simply an excuse to buy a new one!

Mine is the same... The rear is all stripped out, but I noticed a swimming pool in the spare wheel well. Gonna have to suss out where it\'s coming from.

Only real difference since before I took the engine out is that I have now removed the OMP and running 2 stroke. - if that would make any difference?

Put the engine in the car now - appears to be running fine. Not driven it as such, just let it run for 10mins.

One thing I noticed is that the heat light is on constantly. Also noticed on the PFC the knock sensor bar wasn\'t moving at all?

It appears to be connected up etc. Could it just be a duff sensor?

Anything to worry about, or should I get it sorted?

Fitted the engine to the car today along with the new exhaust...



It\'s gonna look awesome once the bung is removed and the diffuser is back on.

My questions is... is my bumper going to get toasted??

Recently just finished my rebuild.

Decided to remove the OMP. Blanked off with a plate and the injector holes blanked off also.

Finished putting the engine in the car today and should be firing her up tomorrow.

Question about two stroke....

Does it matter what brand/type I use? I\'ll be buying it from halfords if that helps.

Also, how large is the FD3S fuel tank? Reason I\'m asking is if the gauge is showing 1/4 full - so I know how much two stroke to put in before I fire her up.

many thanks

bump.............

Well after getting my finger out this evening, finally got to this stage...






Basically, all I need to do is slap the upper intake manifold on.

A right pain in the arse working with a 16year old brittle engine loom. I moved a wire, snap! Had to dig the bugger out and attach some fresh wiring. Argh!


My quick question is...

Near the rear of the block there\'s the oil pressure sensor and also the water temp sensor (for the stock gauge).

If I\'m right in thinking the oil pressure sensor connects to wiring which is currently sitting in the engine bay. But am I right in thinking that the water temp connector comes off the loom which is attached to the engine? Basically somewhere near where the connector is. The reason I\'m asking is because I have a wire there with no connector on it (most probably snapped off).

I don\'t want to go connecting it if it\'s the wrong thing.

It\'s been so long since I took it apart, that\'s why I\'m asking

Mine done the same if the ICV was plugged in. With it unplugged the car idled fine. Only thing is to start it with the ICV unplugged I have to blip the throttle.

With it plugged in it starts without the blip, but it will hunt.

Looking to remove my standard headlights completely as I\'ve got a replacement to go in their place.

Any pointers?

I used carb cleaner on the rotor, worked fine. Also any sortof parts cleaner on the components should do the job.

Hi,

Is that blue hylomar on the legs of the housings.

I have looked at the FSM and have got the DVD\'s it says to use RTV sealant in these area\'s.

Is it ok to use as a substitute ?

Paul

Yeah, it\'s hylomar.

I\'ve got the DIY-RE box set and they say to use hylomar in the DVD.

Basically all it\'s for is to stop the oil seeping past the legs.

Now I need to get the motivation to do the rest! lol

I used a dremel, small precision screwdriver and a hammer when I done it last time! lol