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More updates.. It starts whenever I open the door while the battery is connected. Even if the door is closed, ign is not on or key is out. It will not stop the beeping.. Need to close the door and connect the battery in order for it to shut up.

Hi, have just had time to really look into this again. It\'s indeed the F110 "relay" that sits close to the steering column.... I managed to find this picture of the thing,  http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt239/jdmspares/Cars/Mazda/J031-FD3S202449/Parts18092012085.jpg   I just need to know what\'s wrong, if it is indeed this thing that\'s broken or if it\'s the F100... If I put a finger on the buzzer hole, it quiets down but maybe this unit makes noise for other things to. Also, where can I find a spare? Will Mazda have them?

Wolfie: Relay? And would it sound without the ignition on?  Neil: But that shouldn\'t sound without the ignition on either?

Hi guys!

Long time no speak. Just decided that my FD shouldn\'t be sitting in the garage any longer after 2 years of rest.

I remember having this issue for a long time but never got around to sorting what it was. When connecting the battery without touching ignition I get a buzzer/summer sounding continously. Car is a 94 Japanese import. Had a turbo timer fitted but I removed that one without any changes. Removed the head unit, no change. Was thinking that it was one of the defi meters but they are much louder if they alarm.  Any thoughts? I really really hate to troubleshoot electrics...

Thanks in advance!!

Revolution kit also makes you able to keep the Aircon.

Batman: I would work on shielding and redirecting air only through the IC/Rad. Will help you very much.

Thanks for asking, sounds like a blast! I could very well be interested but it all comes down to when It takes place. I am almost never at home so dates are crucial.

Let me know when you have things set up.

Sorry, my interior will with 99% certainty remain standard apart for instrumentation.

Carpet?

I use original fuel rail with original injectors. Estimate a few hp over 300 but I really don\'t care about that. More interested in handling/response and the few bits I have planned will do just that I believe.

I think I will try Revolutions alignment setup first. That will change Camber,Toe and Caster. They do sport some pretty quick FD\'s in Japan so it will be more than sufficient for me for this/the next season. Coilovers are already sorted but maybe you weren\'t suggesting me to get some?

Complete list of Engine/Handling is as follows.
Engine:
Apexi Power FC
ARC Power steering cooler
Billion Super termo cloth
FEED Brake cap
FEED Enginge torque brace
FEED Sonic FP Downpipe
FEED Sonic PP Silenced Decat
FEED Intank collector
Mazdaspeed Diffmounts
Odysses PC680 Battery
SARD 280l/h Intank Fuelpump
R-Magic Oilfiller cap
R-Magic Earthing kit
RE-Amemiya AST
RE-Amemiya Alternator cap
RE-Amemiya Expansion cap
RE-Amemiya Catchtank
Revolution Battery ground disconnector
Revolution Battery box
Revolution Vmount Kit consisting of:
Revolution/ARC Intercooler
Revolution/ARC Upprated radiator
Revolution Airguides and AC rad connectors
Trust BL Catback Exhaust.
Trust Greddy Sandwichplate
Trust Greddy Elbow
Trust GRACER Airinx B-Type Air filter kit
Planning to get a new clutch/flywheel as well.

Handling:
Auto EXE Anti rollbars
Makers Racing Stabilizer bridge bar
KTS Rear strutbrace.
OEM Front strutbrace
R-Magic Rear Lateral rod
R-Magic Rear Toe control links
Öhlins Coilovers (will put on Swift Springs/helpers later)
Waiting for Auto Exe underbody braces.

Rotorheadsam: Thank you very much! can\'t think of a better praise!

I ordered some new discs for my Spirit-R calipers and am fitting Endless braided racing hoses, calipers and the Project Mu SCR-Pro 2piece floating discs as soon as they arrive. Will be sporting a set of Endless CC-R pads all around and after that I think I will go Performance Friction. I also have a set of rear Pillowball toe control links and Pillowball rear lateral rods from R-Magic waiting to get fitted as soon as I get my alignment settings. Have also planned to fit a new final gear which is going to make wonders. Next step is fabricating some carbon fibre shielding/ducting for IC,Brakes,Airfilters and maybe something else I forgot. Got around to fit some heat shielding to the power steering and throttle wire. That project will continue to most things around the twin turbo setup. Also thinking of some more Revolution goodies for the handling, and also doing a neat thing with the intstrumentation.

Uprated brakes are 314x32mm front and 314/315mmx22mm rear. You use the stock rear calipers with a bracket to place the caliper further out from the hub. Front calipers are without bracket but sit further out as well.

I don\'t wish to be "that cranky guy" but if all of you only buy replicas, the Japanese companies won\'t sell to europe/America since everything they sell will be copied.. Save some more and buy the genuine parts to keep the market alive. It hurts my wallet every time but it\'s worth it in the end. And if you buy quality, you only cry once.

I don\'t understand people putting ....ty pads in the rear, and good ones front. Last time I checked a car want\'s balance to brake/perform good...  Same goes for only upgrading fronts to huge setup and nothing done to the rear..?

I use the Works Bell one..  VERY high quality and approved by the Japanese "MOT" Quite a few colors to pick from and other nice extras.

Initial-D: I have been so busy with taking over a company and all that comes with that. Have driven my car maybe 10 times in 2 years but since this summers trip to Japan I got back some energy. Only trouble is the exhangerate.. The Swedish Krona is probably the worst currency in Europe the civilized world right now.