Messages

Yes, front needs to be as high as you can reasonably get it :-)

Yeah, im kind of hopeing its not anything major like coolant seals etc, but the engine was running fine when it happened, and i pulled over straight away so fingers crossed.
 
Yes, i think itd be a decent idea to get a seperate temp gauge and measure the actual coolant temp.
 
Ive heard people mention this \'burp\' test, - is it just a term for bleeding the coolant system etc, or is it some kind of super dooper RX7 test lol?
 
Lee

 
No, just the normal coolant bleed - heating full on - and some of us have found that jacking the car up to let any bubbles find there way out of the coolant system helps - you can get air pockets in the system that can work there way around to the heater matrix.

the temp gauge in the cluster is all but useless - when it indicates something other than normal, then you\'ve usually already got problems :-(
 
The sensor itself is mounted in the rear iron, and not directly in the water system, so it\'s basically measuring engine block temperature.  A proper water temp gauge and sender will be much more responsive.
 
It could be an air block in the system - may need to \'burp\' it.  But it does sound like your rad isn\'t working correctly if it\'s stone cold at the bottom after running a while.

Glad you got it sorted! :driving:Thumbs-up

Finally, after being offline on Friday night till the wee hours !

Virgin have a lot to answer for !!

My scanner on the printer isn\'t wanting to talk to my laptop either - so that\'s another problem to sort, but I did get the wiring diagrams scanned in using an app on the old HTC :-)  

So attached is the full lights wiring diagram, and then close ups of the fog related stuff.  There is a diode that\'s in the lights switch that controls the headlights relay and the fog light relay - so if headlights are working the signal should be getting to the fog relay too.

Hope the diagrams make sense.

Poo - limited to 194Mb on here for the pdf - there\'s 5 pages in it and it\'s 2.9Mb - I could email it to you

Update - I trawled through the forum and I think I found your email address - so I\'ve sent it there - if you don\'t get the email - I\'ve sent it to the wrong person or an old address.

apologies - I had internet issues last night, I will post it up this evening :-)

I\'ll scan it when I get home tonight, and then post it up for you :-)

If it\'s a uk car, I have the wiring diagrams for right hand drive models (UK, AUS) and could scan the relevant page. As far as I remember, it works only when the other lights are on, uses a switch in the centre console near the \'coin bin\' / gear stick area, and a relay in the front of the engine bay.
 
oh - and it\'s separately fused too ;-)

I tried long and hard to understand that part of the mechanism - as the 2 sections do come apart - apparently you have to remove the hard part at that point when the roof pauses the first time - so it\'s up at a slight angle.  There is a lever on one side - can\'t remember which - that you need to operate to disengage the hard section.  A small screw pin stops the lever from operating when the roof is in either the fully up or fully down position.
 
When I disassembled the roof to store it I just unscrewed the pin.

Would you sell the headlights separately ?

Interested in the headlights Rob, are these still available?

Not a bad idea at all with the POR .. might have to price some up

knowing your keen eye for a bargain, buy it in smaller tins - once you open it, you\'ll need to use the whole tin or throw it, as it goes off in the air!

When I finally get around to doing the underside of phoenix, I am going with POR-15 on the rust treated surfaces, and then waxoyl over that, should keep it out of trouble for a few years.
 
glad it passed, you\'ve had a good year for getting out in it!

That does look like it just drove out of a showroom!  :yes
 
Well deserved!

That\'s the dip dim resistor for UK and Euro model cars - operates headlights in lower intensity mode when sides are selected and engine running