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Hey Neil, can you drop me an email on mark [at] vzzbux [dot] com please? I\'m thinking about importing but wouldn\'t mind picking someone in the know\'s brain a wee bit if that\'s OK?

Cheers,
Mark

Sorry, totally forgot about the big costs... Tax!!!

So the (car cost + Shipping) + 10% duty + 15% VAT... They\'re the bits that really sting.

Plus that add the duty and VAT to the shipping as well, which makes no sense to me.

so even if you bought it for £74 - how much would it have costed to get it to your front door ??

Well, you\'d be looking about £600 - £700 shipping, then you\'d need to pick it up from the local dockyard and if it\'s been sat you have a daily rate for it sitting at the dock of the bay

Then as it\'s over 10 years old, you need a fog light, then a MOT, then you can go to the DVLA and get it registered for about £50 IIRC plus 6 months tax.

Then wait for your plates and jobs a carrot.

I may have missed a couple of bits as it was a few years back when I last imported anything.

Also the 13B REW is heavier (esp with turbo\'s and such like attached) than the humble K series, all ali block and head with liners while the 13B still has cast iron lumps on it.

Plus you\'d then have to fabricate everything up which would cost a bomb, so just stick with the Honda K20 engine and if you need more power then get a SC on it!

But Nik is right, the S1 Elise / Exige are pretty basic, the S2\'s are a lot better all round TBH.

Just as a note, the S1 Exige with the Rover K-Series VHPD engine is services every 6k miles, and is generally regarding to need a rebuild every 40,000 miles or so depending on usage.

So the RX7 can be seen as much more reliable

So the general opinion other than drive others which i will do is that they are good handling cars, would they get close to Elise/Exige handling with the correct suspension mods, money no object as the RX7 would be cheaper to buy than an Elsie and pay 10k for the honda engine conversion

I used to own a S1 Exige and recently the RX7 and handling wise they have a similar "feel", the RX7 probably a little less edgy (but the Exige is more edgy than the Elise), but you can feel the weight... I\'d say it\'s like a heavy Elise in a way.

But then you get a stereo you can hear, Air Con, powered stuff, wheel bearings that last longer than 10,000 miles etc... So in a sense I\'d say you\'re trying to compare apples to oranges, the RX7 does handly very well, but due to weight it\'ll never be the same as the Elise / Exige IMHO.

Sorry if I\'ve missed this in the tread, but you\'re sure the fans are working? And switching on at the right time etc?

With the learning thing, if you hadn\'t leaned the AC / Rear window heater loads then all that will happen is it\'ll come on and run rough as hell or maybe stall the engine.

You should be able to hear a click or see the ac compressor engage when you push the ac button, but the PFC is more sensitive to voltages apparently, there\'s a way you can bypass it for the AC but I can\'t remember off the top of my head.

No idea about the static, but I\'d hazard it\'s a earth fault, the stereo earths to the aerial through the chassis IIRC so could just be a gammy earth on the car causing it all?

I was also gonna say a couple of dobermans would do the trick

But couldn\'t you just flood the engines... Usually why a RX7 won\'t start!

Also, how hard is it to just unplug the fuel pump from the boot?

But a word of caution, wasn\'t there a guy who had a limited edition Evo, they tried to steal it, couldn\'t so torched it instead which then set fire to Audi and his gf\'s car... With that in mind, decent insurace may be the best idea?

I\'ve read about this a few times before but can\'t find the links now... Bascially make sure it\'s not on all settings, normally it should work on setting 4 IIRC...

If it does then I think you can take the fan speed switch off and give it a good clean up with electrical cleaner and you should be good to go. If i do spot the links with all the info I\'ll post them up!

They\'re meant to have a little hole with a small metal \'tab\' in it. This hole is meant to sit at the top when fully installed.

It\'s a jiggle pins, supposed to help with cativation IIRC... Not all thermostats have them and all new thermostats I\'ve never seen have them...

I dunno ifit\'s just a JDM thing...

Edit to say: that\'s really weird indeed!!! I can\'t see how ever with a rad the size of the car it wouldn\'t get up to temp as no water is being passed through it... Have you still got the AST? And if you eliminated it did you just run a bypass or did you plug the old AST holes?

Very interesting....I have an FMIC setup and my water temps go to 77 on the motor way and come back up to 85 in slower traffic.
 
I have a 65c thermostat. Its only just done this since I have changed the rad cap to a better Apexi one and I have no AST at all.

If you want to run the engine that cool (IIRC it\'s just add a bit more NOx to the exhaust), just make sure the cold start enrichment is setup to be lower than that otherwise you\'re just sticking in extra fuel for no real reason if you see what I mean?

I\'d agree that the metal water pipes wouldn\'t matter really, not enough to notice.

But if you have a PFC then you can change the map so it doesn\'t enrich the mixture t colder temps (I think there\'s a 50C - 80C band and then above), it\'ll make it a bit rough while it\'s warming up but would certainly help the economy!

But also I\'d agree, just get a standard thermostat, the cooler ones are a bit of a bodge IMHO, unless you can map for the cooler temps it\'s not going to help. And ~85C is absolutely fine.

LOL... There is a logical reason for it running so cool The car has a Vmount & a std bonnet lifted at the rear, also a deflector shield behind the rad, so the rad is going to be getting 80 - 90% of the air flow! My thought was by putting a front defusor on her and making a sliding pannel so I can ajust the amount of air flow through the rad, that would solve my problems.
The temps are taken from the PFC commander & not an aux gauge!! infact when I had a second gauge in, it read lower than it should!!

Jono

I hear what your saying dude, but as said, if the thermostat is in good order (you may have a lower temp one, or as said it\'s been drilled out) then no matter how much air is going through the rad the temps will remain at the thermostat temp.

If the water in the engine block is 70C and the thermostat doesn\'t open until 80C then no water at all is going to the rad so it wouldn\'t make any odds how much or little air is passing through it, if that makes sense?

Good info to know, it was more a surprise TBH as I\'ve had a DNF in a race as the battery shorted and exploded itself and I lost everything... Only had a couple of laps to go as well!

So old MR2\'s do not run unless the battery is connected up.