Messages

Pretty sure I\'ve seen this around Guildford a few times. Looks great, sounds good and is nice to see an RX7 driving round the town as it a change from badly modded hatch backs.

According to Japanese Performance magazine this month, the rotary is at its most efficient at 150mph

You know what to do gentlemen...

True.

My personal feeling is to map for the lowest common denomintor, I will always fill up with super unleaded, so mine\'s mapped on BP 97 Ron fuel.

While I have used 99 Ron Tesco stuff it is from fairly busy forecourt (Tesco\'s in Broadbridge Heath), tons of imprezas and evos fill up there so I think the fuel is pretty fresh. I\'m sure someone will tell me that\'s incorrect.

I\'ve never managed to have Tesco fuel in my FD long enough to worry about degradation! :Giggle

ooooh good find :Thumbs-up

so 3/8" BSPP should work then and that shouldn\'t be too tricky to get a tap for

I\'m looking to tap the primary fuel rail mainly to remove the fuel pulsation dampers, but also so I can put better fittings in my fuelling system.

The fuel lines will be -6 JIC but what size should the metric side be? I\'ve seen some stuff about an FC fuel rail where they use an M12 fitting on the FPD side but an M14 on the other side.

When I fitted the single turbo to my FD I fitted the gasket for the exhaust manifold (the bit that goes next to the block and that the turbo is fitted onto) that came with the kit, which was made out of normal gasket material.

I\'m pretty sure this is blowing now as the turbo seems to be slow to make boost lower down (it is a GT35R so should spool fine) and then has no problem over 0.4 bar all the way upto 0.8 spooling like a ninja.

Anyway the standard mazda FD ones are metal, right? Is this the best material? I was thinking of PTFE but that has a melting point of 300 odd Deg C and I think a rotary can kick out up to 800 Deg C, therfore way in excess of what it can handle, I guess, unless it is 10mm thick or something...

Got mine on a Classic policy with Peter Best limited to 3000 miles all mods declared.

Single Turbo GT35R with all the supporting mods

comes in at £350 this year (suspect it will go up next year, in line with everything else!)

Oh I\'m 33, no points (touch wood) and full no claims (touch wood again).

Nah, I\'ve seen a clean black FD around Lower Edgeborough road and the council offices a couple of times over the last few months and I don\'t think that was you Adam.

well it\'s just more difficult to do doughnuts in the pub car park in a subaru legacy outback.

Hmmm that\'ll be on my way back from Windsor Triathlon...I won\'t be in the RX7 though

No idea to be honest. Best to ask Jason.

a Standard rebuild is around £3k if you want porting on top of that it will be more.

What you\'ve got to remember is that to reach that power it\'s not necessarily the engine you need to worry about, it\'s all the ancilliaries like increased cooling, mappable ECU (Apexi Power FC or something), turbos etc.

A 500bhp RX7 is a serious car. It will take out nearly anything on the road.

Your best bet it too talk to Jason, tell him what you want to do and he\'ll go through it with you.

You may also want to take a ride in a 500bhp RX7 to decide if you want that kind of power.

When I had mine mapped I was fixated on 1 bar of boost. That\'s what I wanted. Carl Hayward mapped it to 0.8 and said we\'ll take a spin in it and if you want more boost then we\'ll do it.

It scared the hell out of me. It still does.

And mine is an RX7 with probably 350-400bhp (dunno never dyno\'d it).

My suggestion is not to get hung up on figures. Build the car you want, rather than the car for pub talk.

Sorry, I don\'t mean to patronise you, you may have has some really fast cars, but really most people don\'t need an RX7 with massive bhp figures.

Well Jason at Super7 has an excellent rep. Had I known about him when I was having my engine rebuilt I would have gone there, rather than Carl Hayward (just because he is closer, no other reason).

His website is //www.super7autos.co.uk

Took it for a quick blast this weekend and it didn\'t seem to be doing it. Although the OMP didn\'t seem to be working very well (hence pre-mixing), last time it seemed to be working well

so what I\'m thinking now is that with the pre-mix and the normal oil from the OMP it was probably not burning properly and thus coming out of the exhaust.

There is no smoke cloud on idle, which I\'m thinking is the oil seals leak when there is negative pressure (i.e. not on boost) then you\'d see and smell something then.

Define Best. Cheapest, strongest, most powerful?

Depends what you want.

As you are in Sussex your closest person would be Jason at Super7 Autos, which is good because he is ace. He\'s in the Henfield area. Next would be Re:Work in Portsmouth.

Personally I go to Carl Hayward in Newbury, but that might be a bit far for you.