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it will cost you a lot of money to ship to Norway dude, probably £150 when I just did a quick quote estimating the weight and dimensions

Well, I don\'t really have much of a choice if I want the rear bins, as there aren\'t any for sale in Norway.

But £150 is survivable, so I\'ll take the bins if possible.
They are complete? Like everything needed to replace the rear seats is there?

Best Regards
Morten

Can you ship to Norway? I am very interested in the rear bins.

I\'ll take these if you ship them to Norway?

Hey... figured I\'d update since I\'m finished with the engine.

Ended up with new lapped walls, and the early model 20b housings which have the plug holes at the same place as the t4 sII rotor housing, so we had to be a bit careful with the ignition.

So the mods are the same as before, just different housings..

This was done at 0.86 bar boost:
the first two are wheel hp, second two are flywheel

I read on rx7club about a test in a windtunnel, and the original rear wing on the FD is there only for the looks... it has the same downforce with or without the original wing for the 92-99 FDs... i think the later bigger wing does have som effect, but the rear wing on the earlier models was there just to complete the look of the car. Too bad they didn\'t think about the offset and size on the original wheels...

Nice!!! seems I might have an extra project this winter apart from my engine:D

Well... I\'ve probably blown a waterseal.. so I didn\'t even get it mapped... was on my way to something similar to your MOT and the car started overheating a lot... figured it was either a ****ed thermostat or air in the system, but after plugging the ast and removing the thermostat it still kept overheating, and it suddently got really hard to start when hot.

And when I took out the sparkplugs one of them were wet, and it didn\'t smell/taste like either fuel nor coolant, so I\'m guessing it was a mix of them...

so now I have a project for the winter

All I\'m missing on the dash is the gaugeholder on the center speaker.

And I\'m not sure where to mount the LM-1..

When I started to glue it I started on the top, where the vents for the front windscreen are..

That was a nice colour...:Thumbs-up

But there are nobody near here that paint`s kandy..:o

U now that I live out in no mans land...:rollin

Hehe...  That\'s too bad... It\'s a really unusual and nice colour...

You live around E134 right? so the closest to you is stavanger or bergen? it\'s a bit of a drive just to get it painted in that colour...

Oh... and the reason it took so long to build/upgrade is that I dont have a garage or anything, so I\'m a bit dependant on the weather...

Figured I should update this if anyone was interrested...  I had some moneyproblems this summer. I paid too much tax last year and was supposed to get about £1200 back, but the government messed up so I had to work a bit to get back my money..

At the moment the engine is 98% finnished... I\'m still waiting on the resistors for the injectors, and some custom fabrication for the fuel preassure gauge.

Hopefully I\'ll be traveling to sweden to get it mapped next week. I\'ll post the results then.

Vest: Steal my idea for my next paint job: Kandy lime green:

I just used the workshop manual... Its basically 2 bolts on each side, 2 bolts on each side of the center console part.. and one bolt on top of the dash, in the center of the vents on the window... And it\'s a lot of wire connections that are a bit of a pain in the ass to get off... But I did it in about 40 mins or so I think, so it\'s not so bad...

The hardest part for me was to get the speedo console thingy off before I took the dash out, I managed to break it...  but you have to take this of before you can get the stereo/aircon/fan part off...

This doesn\'t really have that much effect.  You have a high pressure zone at the base of the windscreen.  This is, I agree, slightly less than a standard saloon due to the decreased rake of the windscreen but non the less it is still an extensive high pressure zone.
 
This Zone actually contributes towards down force.  Unfortunately it is counteracted by the lift generated by both the bonnet and the roof, but is why you see the faster sports cars with a very shallow long screen as this smooths the transition between the bonnet the windscreen and the roof.
 
As air moves from a high pressure zone to a low pressure zone, and the air under in the engine bay tends to be low pressure, the air wont actually come out very easily by the windscreen.  If anything it will want to circulate under the bonnet causing drag.
 
The best way to remove air from the engine bay is either via the bonnet using NACA ducts or under the car between the chassis and a flat floor then exit at the rear into the dead air.

Ok, Then I\'ll throw away that idea... I\'ll just have to wait and see how the temp goes then...

ENVYD: I just used some contact glue from a car accessories shop.. I was a bit unsure of how it would work out, but it worked great...

Kevin: Thanks. I did it myself with a little bit of help from a friend with the dash and doors...