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It is such a hard decision to make to finally let go. It costs me very little to keep it in the garage and I'm sure one day I could actually drive it again! (probably in about 10 yrs when my kids are old enough!!). As things stand it pretty much just sits there and it deserves more.

Anyway, I forgot to post pics of the engine bay so here are a couple I took today....

1993 RX7 type R.
I’ve owned the car since 2003 (first owner after it was imported), I used it daily until about 2010 and since then it has been stored in garages (under cover apart from the 7000 miles it has done since then).
The speedo was converted to MPH at 48,000K and reading 89,000 now makes the total approx. 71,000k miles.
She drives amazingly well, and is very fast. 
It has the following mods.

Engine rebuilt in about 2006 Odometer reading 71920 (17,000miles ago) lots of receipts
Power FC (Mapped to 341 bhp, 300lbs torque by Pip at WGT)
Uprated fuel pump and pressure regulator
K&N air filters
Straight through stainless exhaust, de-cat silencer and re-packable back box.
Hks adjustable BOV
Greddy style elbow (can’t remember if it’s genuine!)
V mount intercooler
Full silicone vacuum hose replacement
Uprated engine mounts
Uprated, larger core radiator
Racing Dynamics coilovers
Braded break lines
Lightweight aircraft battery
Enkie wheels (minor scuffing but refurb needed due to brake dust and bad paint flake)
Exterior painted last September through WGT
11 months MOT

Bad bits
Knock from rear suspension (suspect pillow ball replacement needed)
Windscreen rubber needs replacing
Very light surface rust on underside rear

I was going to sort out the suspension and do the rust at the same time but time and money are limited and so am asking a lower price to take this into account. It is best you see the rust for yourself anyway rather than covering it up, to show it is nothing serious but if I were to keep the car I would do it to prevent future issues.

I love this car and I have held on to it as long as I could, It’s going to break my heart to see it go but life has changed and I can no longer put the time and money to maintain it to the standard it deserves. I hope that I can find an enthusiast to maintain this excellent car 

£9000

Thanks for the replies.

Dax, your absolutely right, when it costs nothing to put it in the garage and they seem to be going up in price it's a tough choice to make and of course the more I drive it the harder it gets  .
I don't think I'll be doing anything till the spring (probably not the best time to sell a rear wheel drive monster!) and have another think when the weather is better and the financial shock of christmas is over!!

redgti -- I never got your message.

Thanks. I haven't done a compression test on it. Should add to my list of things to do. Specially if I decide to sell.
I haven't made up my mind yet but you all will be first to know if I sell, I figure that way it'll have the best chance of being looked after!

Ok. So maybe a silly question to ask but it’s time to make a choice and I need your opinion to make it!

So, I think it’s a story you’ve probably all heard before. Married with a little one, home commitments and all the rest and if I’m totally honest with myself, I just can’t afford to keep the RX7 and keep it to the standard that I want it to be.

I’ve owned it since 2003 and in the early days I used it as a daily driver, it’s use slowly dwindled until I dry stored in about 2010. This last year I’ve done a few repairs here and there (leaking sump, swapped out the gearbox due to bearing issues and other bits and bobs) and got it back on the road. The intention was to get an MOT and sell it but now of course I’ve been in it again and I’ve fallen for the old beast all over again!! So, my thinking is. If it’s worth enough she will go and the money will be put towards a decent family car. If it’s not, well, I’ll keep it and drive it every so often doing the bits I can when I can.

The car is a 1993 RX7 type R. The speedo was converted to MPH at 48000 K and I think it’s reading about 80k now so about 60k miles (will need to confirm!). It has the following mods.

Engine rebuilt in about 2006 (I’ll have to go through the paperwork to find out the mileage since the rebuild but it won’t be much)
Power FC (Mapped to 341 bhp, 300lbs torque by Pip at WGT)
Uprated fuel pump and pressure regulator
K&N air filters
Straight through stainless exhaust, de-cat silencer and re-packable back box.
Hks adjustable BOV
Greddy style elbow (can’t remember if it’s genuine!)
V mount intercooler
Uprated engine mounts
Uprated, larger core radiator
Racing Dynamics coilovers (full 4 wheel alignment done last month by Pip at WGT)
Lightweight aircraft battery
Enkie wheels (minor scuffing but refurb needed due to brake dust and bad paint flake)
Unique front bumper
Exterior painted last month

I’ve probably forgotten something but that’s the majority.
So. What do you think. What’s it worth!?

Hi, I see this was posted a while ago. Do you still have the gearbox with the bad 5th Syncro?

I guess that is a starting point, I do need to check the wheel alignment and that nothing has changed, although having said that the car had 4 wheel alignment set up by a local racing team with the racing logic on. The only change I have made is to change the tyres.
I\'m fairly sure the travel is more than adequate, not only was it never that low, certainly not as low as yours bro, but I raised it up to see if that would make any difference.
The preload is an issue, I\'m not 100% on what changes affects what?
Maybe I will just have to spend the money and get the whole lot (Ie ride height, preload and damping) setup professionally. Something I really didn\'t think was necessary just so that I could feel like I can drive the car with confidence.
Although you have all said that the spring rates I\'ve mentioned should be hard enough I can\'t get out of my head that it feels no firmer than the standard setup I took off the car. :3Confused

I would check the suspension travel to see if has any

I had set it up fairly low to begin with, but not so bad the wheels were inside the arches. Probably about a 20mm gap front and rear. After experiencing the bad.....I raised it up a fair amount to see if it made an improvement. I think there was a bit but there is still the distinct feeling that it\'s trying to kill me when I turn the wheel!
I also tried different settings on the damping with little success.

I\'ve gone and had a proper look and it says 180mm 10kg (front) and 180mm 6kg (rear)
According to what you have said this should feel stiff......to me there is very little difference from the standard setup when it comes to body roll and general stiffness. It\'s like a limo compared with my brothers on the Tein setup which I consider to be a firm but not ridiculous. :2Confused

I am certainly no expert (You may have guessed!) but I know the basics of coilovers, is there something I\'m missing on these?

1993 Type R, 235/45/17 (Front) 255/40/17 (Rear)
I\'ve bought some racing Logic coilovers and am having problems with the set up. The car was fine on the standard shocks and springs but I wanted a lower firmer ride.
The Racing logic seems too soft, even on the hardest setting the back end bottoms out when exiting roundabouts too hard (for example). Also the car has developed a distinctly unsettled feeling at speed and through corners, not cool!
I\'ve been to a suspsension specialist and they recomend changing the springs. The racing Logic are 10kg ( I think) does anyone know what spring rate would suit? My brother has a tein set up ( I have no idea which one) which is quite firm but the spring rate doesn\'t seem to be printed on the spring.
Any help advice or suggestions welcome.

Here is the specification from the website.....don\'t really know that much about it myself except that it does the job very well for such a small battery. I\'ve got pics of my engine bay if you want an idea of size.

Specifications
Drycell Battery
Without Metal Jacket
12 Volt
16 Ah @ 10hr rate
220 CCA
680 Cranking Amps for 5 Seconds
24 Minute Reserve Capacity

Replaces DYNA-BATT 5575B, 5575C

Dimensions(mm)
185 x 79 x 170

Features:

12 Year design life and 6 to 10 year service life

99.9% pure lead providing minimal plate corrosion

Explosion proof

Corrosion proof

2 to 3 times the cranking power of equilivant size battery

Spill and leak proof

Superior vibration resistance

Fully Charged out of the box

When fully charged can be stored for up to 2 years at 77ÃÆ'Įââ,¬â,,¢ÃƒÆ'Ã,¢Ã¢ââ,¬Å¡Ã,¬Ã…Ã,¡ÃÆ'ƒâ€Ã...¡ÃÆ'ââ,¬Å¡Ãƒâ€šÃ,°F

May be installed on its sides at any angle without sacrificing performance attributes

Military grade version of the Hawker Genesis


Hope this helps

Hi,

Me and my brother use the Odyssey PC680 battery. It\'s small and very good, I think it\'s 7kg or something close to. I would compare it to normal battery for cranking strength and length of time, I run a normal set up, alarm car stereo and usual electrics, no probs and I have left it sat for a few weeks with no probs. I would say longer than a month and I tend to disconnect the battery caus the alarm will drain it eventually.

http://www.tayna.co.uk/viewcart.php

That\'s where I got mine.

Hope that helps

Hi all,
I\'d like to guage interest on Federal 595 RS-R Track day tyres. I can get hold of 235/45/17 and 255/40/17 (probably others on request) with a minimum order quantity.
The 235\'s are around £110
The 255\'s are around £135
Prices to confirmed if there is enough interest.

There is a 3 month lead time, at least it will be in time for the good weather.

Can we have interest and opinions on these tyres if anyone has had experience.

Here is a link to the federal site
http://www.federaltire.com/en/html/pdetail.php?DB=motosports&pdline=3&ID=3

So anyway.
Thought I\'d update this.
Not sure if I mentioned, this is my brothers car, I did a compression test on my car to compare the results. Unfortunitely I got exactly what I thought I should be seeing. Three, big distinct bounces from the tester. I think that pretty much confirms it, one or more of the seals has gone in both rotors.
That\'s not good caus I\'m the one that has to do the rebuild!!!
If any body sees him before me, can you give him the bad news as he doesn\'t know yet and I\'m not really looking forward to telling him!

Surely double declutching won\'t really help going up through the gears?

Works for me.....you\'ll have to try it! It just stops the annoying noise when you change from 4th to 5th!
I think it matches the gearbox to the engine revs. Not sure how it works, maybe someone else will confirm and explain.

Mine does it too......syncro!

If you double clutch it won\'t grind!

I found this web site, have a look at how to change the syncro. I haven\'t read it through thoroughly so you will have to see for yourself if it\'s useful. Hope it helps.

http://www.3rdgenrx7.com/