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Ah that's great thanks!

Thanks for the advice. I was looking at the kits as I understand that some different diameter hoses are required. If I just buy a long length of viton hose is there a list of what lengths of what diameters I would need for a stock twins setup?

I'm doing a full fd 13b engine and turbo rebuild and was wondering if there's a particular vacuum hose set that people recommend?
The only one I have been contemplating so far is a silicone kit from HPSI on eBay in the states which after postage and import tax will effectively double the cost to around £200. If there's a similar quality kit available in the UK could anyone advise which? Does everyone  only use silicone or are any viton kits recommended? Thanks

Here for sale is my \'92 J reg import FD, in silver, which has covered 133,800km (83,000miles) and has a full 12 months MOT until 11/04/13, with 8 months road tax until 31/12/12

The engine was rebuilt by WGT in Cheshire around 9,000miles ago at a cost of £3600.

It has an Apexi PowerFC ECU with Commander controller, mapped on the dyno at 341.7bhp.

It is also fitted with Tein Super Street adjustable coilover suspension, a Racing Beat decat exhaust, and a few basic upgrades under the bonnet e.g. intercooler, intakes, etc.

The bodywork is reasonably good, it is by no means a show car so please expect the odd stone chip and mark (the spoiler in particular which was sourced from another vehicle as the car was spoilerless when I bought it, and unfortunately this spoiler is covered in lots of fine scratches!).

However when you consider that the car is 20 years old, it is actually very very good for it\'s age and has been looked after.

The car will also not be sold with the gold AVS wheels show in the current photos. Before sale it will be refitted with the dished silver Re-Amemiya split rim wheels shown in the last photographs. My reason for selling the car is that I am going on my Medical Elective to Australia in a few months, so unfortunately have to sell any "unnecessary toys" in order to fund this. The car will still be in weekly use until selling though, so it will continue to be maintained and the mileage on the odometer may rise slightly (but not by very much!).

Price £4500

Photographs (click for high resolution)

ahh thanks chaps - it was indeed flooded!

we bumped it in reverse and it fired into life again... will ensure i don\'t start the engine just to move it off the drive again in future

it\'s weird that this is my 4th rx7 over 8 years and i\'ve never flooded one before!

hi all,

i\'ve been using the car daily for the past couple of weeks with no problems, mostly journeys of 30 to 60 miles.

got home on friday evening and left the car on the driveway. the next morning started it fine and just moved the car off the driveway onto the road and switched it off.

then on saturday evening came to start the car and it\'s turning over but not even trying to fire.

it\'s a standard fd with apexi pfc & controller, had engine rebuild by pip at wgt approx 12k miles / 4 years ago.

any ideas what i should try doing please?

it seems peter best can\'t make their minds up what or who they want to insure...

i\'ve just got off the phone to them, quoted for lightly modified rx7 (wheels, exhaust, intercooler, ecu, +40bhp) for myself (age 26, held license 8 years, no claims or points in last 5 years) and at first the chap said £283.12 with the car kept on a driveway, but then at the last minute realised he\'d made a mistake with something so put me on hold, then came back and said they now won\'t insure modified rx7\'s to any age driver unless it is kept garaged. so i asked him to quote me that out of curiosity and that came back at £438.62 !!!

rubbish. any other good classic car insurers for a 2nd vehicle worth a try?

thankyou

does anybody know if there is a uk supplier of a spoiler like this one from the shineauto website? thanks

i don\'t have a factory/service manual. i have a digital multimeter but couldn\'t figure out how to test the voltage from the lambda with there only being 1 wire! not the foggiest clue how to do it

so i\'ve just bought a new lambda and fitted it anyway, only done a couple of miles since fitting so i don\'t know whether this has solved my overfueling problem yet. but i was wondering is it possible to gain any clues from the condition of my old one what might have been causing the overfueling?

the sensor itself is covered in a white coat with black at the base. if the lambda itself was the cause of the overfueling it should be better now with the new one, but if something else caused it and then the running rich caused the lambda to get into this state, does the colour indicate anything in particular?
if something else is causing it, how long do you think i would have until the new lambda i fitted goes the same way?

how do i check if my lambda sensor is faulty, without actually buying a new one first?

i have a multimeter... but the lambda sensor connector behind the rear engine lifting eye only appears to have 1 wire in it?

oh right thanks! just took her for a spin and everything is great. i just never revved it with my ears over the engine bay before so presumed those were new things

i recently had my uim off to replace some vacuum pipes. whilst doing this i also removed all the intake/intercooler piperwork from the front to improve access and clean everything up. after reassembling everything i fired her up and now when i rev the engine gently, as the revs drop back off there\'s a sort of groaning noise coming from the air intakes near the air pump, and when i rev it a little higher the air pump pulley makes a strange noise and even stops spinning briefly!

i\'ve made a short video to explain better...
http://www.juzee.com/files/MVI_0551.avi
(watch the pulley at about 8 seconds and you can see it stop)

please could anybody tell me what has happened?

if i take the air intakes back off i can spin the front off the air pump pulley around freely without the actual pulley/belt moving, and the front also has a little back/forth play in it. is this normal?

thanks...

i removed my uim today to be greeted by the rats nest. after i recovered from the initial shock i noticed a couple of issues:



the hose arrowed in yellow (down the outside of the intake, goes to the charge relief valve) is broken in half completely. it appears a previous owner has replaced this pipe anyway as the broken off bit is tie wrapped onto the charge relief valve, it looks as though the pipe they used was too short which has caused it to bend too tightly and sever. what size diameter and length hose should i use here to replace this piece?

the hose circled in green has a split in it where it connects to the intake. i\'ll need to replace this one also, however when i refer to the diagram (my car is a \'93 running seq twin turbos) on that side of the intake holes there are 4 hoses connected (yellow, green, yellow, green, as they go down) - however my car only has 3 here!? it\'s the top one of the 3, can anyone clear up which hose this is on the diagram?

finally the metal pipes i\'ve circled in orange are completely disconnected - no loose ends to connect to them! are they supposed to be left unused, or has somebody had a go at simplifying my rats nest in the past (if they have that will save me a job, as it is something i intend to do)!

thanks!

thankyou both very much i will try those suggestions, seems i have plenty of things to be checking...

sorry what is the fpd?

also another thing i noticed is that a couple of times (not very often, only 3 times in around 300 miles) after coming to idle at a roundabout/junction there was black smoke coming from the exhaust. after then setting off again and coming back to a standstill it was completely clear again. from searching i understand this black smoke reinforces that i have a fuel issue. with it only happening so rarely could this indicate anything in particular?