Messages

Would you take 300

How do I get in touch.

Cheers
Dave

That is a good price for the Intercooler and it\'s a nice kit!

10.5 ET22 on the rear without camber and a small stretch on the tyre
More it you wanted to add a touch of camber

On a 10" wheel that equates to 10" ET16 (which is an odd number - so unless you get a custom wheel/multi piece you might have to settle for something close.

You\'re kidding... I threw mine in the bin (we\'ll left it out for the scrap man)

I\'ll be there

Hi Jot

Sorry I\'m still away the moment so haven\'t had a chance to look at popping round to see you, but I haven\'t forgotten.

Martin\'s right - the thing that is confusing it that the chassis number is FD3S-4 but the ECU will be part number FD3S5.

The ECU I had was FD3S4 which was for a 92-95 8-Bit ECU, which has different connectors.

Martin, the car thats coming from Japan - is it possible to take a look at the parts once it arrives - it will be the little bits and pieces I need....

Cheers
Dave

Cheers Carl, no reply here either... not sure whats happening.

Might pop by for a chat soon

Hope all is well

If Carl didn\'t take it, I will.

Cheers
Dave

Coordsport?

dropped you an e-mail and posted a reply to your thread on FDUK.  Definately interested.

I have a pair of m/t sportsman pro tyres in the garage

Need to check but i think they are 28 x 8.5 x 15

ANy idea of any unusual parts - marks on parts etc - it will probably end up broken on ebay so maybe we can all keep an eagle eye out on there....

EBC brakes are terrible.
A good kit if you can stretch to it is the one Clive @ MRP sells which upgrades front and rear.  I\'m sure any brembo stockist should be able to supply the brakes for the FD....
e.g.

http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/fd%20upgradekit.htm
or
http://www.bremboshop.co.uk/

The original wiring will work but it\'s so over complicated.  If you want to use (and here I\'m assuming we\'ve all got the old H3 IPF lights) the little bulbs in the bottom of each of the lights you should tap into the side light wiring (that goes to the lights in the bumper) to run these.  Scotch locks are an easy way.

The for the main beam you need to cut off the H4 connectors make the earths from each of the headlight wiring

Find the earth using a multimeter in continuity test mode (one probe to the body/earth and then work around the three wires) - Label accordingly

Find the main beam using the multimeter in 12V DC mode (one probe to the body/earth and with the lights on main beam work around the remaining two connectors) Once you find it label it

The wire that\'s left is dipped beam.  Connect the dipped beam wire on each side of the car to the IPF light unit you are using for dipped beam (the outside light pods are meant to be used for this i think).  Connnect the main beam wire on each side to the other unit and then make a common earth for both lights, either a new one to the body or to the original wiring.  Test this and once your happy you can now work on making them come on together.

What you want is that on dipped you just get dipped but on main beam you get both lights together.  So you need a relay from Maplin and some wire.

The relay has the following:
Input from the battery or perm positive terminal.
Earth Connection to Body
Signal (Tigger Input) from Main Beam Line
Output to Dipped Beam Wiring

You want a SPNO relay, I think the Maplin one might have 5 terminals but you only need 4.  The Terminals are numbered, here\'s how it works:
Terminal 30: Output to Dipped Beam Wiring, You\'ll need to split this and run it to both IPF Light units and then scotch lock or solder it into the dipped beam wiring.
Terminal  87: Power from battery (You can get this from the fuse box if you relocated the battery)
Terminal 86: Input from main beam wire, scotch lock or solder wire into main beam wire - connect to this terminal, you can do this from just one side.
Terminal 85: Ground (to earth)

I\'d suggest putting an inline fuse inbetween the relay and battery for the sake of safety

I\'m just going from memory on the relay wiring and it might not be 100% so please double check.

I used a single relay from maplin to do it so that once the main beam is activated it triggers the dipped.