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Hi Jon
I've not played with the dash so don't know exactly what I'm looking at. Was this theoretical top speed in 5th or top speed you actually managed to do in 5th?

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Yeah 1st is still usable Jon, pretty short though. So much more pull in all the gears now.

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Coast side looks a little close to the toe but trust me when I say that the camera doesn't pick it up well. Its far more central than it looks in the pictures

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Hi all , sorry for long break, I've been trying to log on but kept getting errors, plus broke my thumb which didn't help with the rebuild.

I'm terrible at taking pictures, I only remember after I've finished so sorry for the lack of progress.

Found a half shaft bearing collar tack weld in the diff housing so expect that was the main cause of the metal swarf. As mentioned previously I think the halfshaft bearing collar became loose on the shaft after Comb and was causing the noise.

Anyway, all done, preload of 3.4kg on the pinion flange with oil seal and 3.6kg with the diff installed so spot on.
Spread of 0.2 -0.22 on the carriers. Managed to get backlash set to 0.013-0.014 on my DTI so bang on as spec states 0.012-0.017mm
Meshing of gears looking perfect as well so pinion depth all good too.

Took a lot of time to get the crush washer to the correct size, many small adjustments and all done by hand with some wet and dry with a little axel oil lol. Time consuming but totally worth it. Actually enjoyed the whole process

Currently done around 50 miles, no whine at all from the diff, used to be soooo noisey, especially on coast.

Another 50 miles and I'll change the diff oil.

New 4.7 cwp makes one hell of a difference, flies through the gears now and noticeably quicker. Top speed at redline in 6th should be 145mph is which is morenthan enough for the tracks I will be going to....was gear for 185mph with the 4.1cwp. So taken 40mph of the top end, no longer a cruiser, its a proper rocket now

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Stripped the diff and all the friction plates are very worn. Will be calling quaife in the morning for a service pack to replace everything. Bank balance isn't happy at the moment

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Stripped the diff and all the friction plates are very worn. Will be calling quaife in the morning for a service pack to replace everything. Bank balance isn't happy at the moment

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Right, decided to go all out seeing as I have removed the diff.

Stripped it all down tonight apart from the races in the case and bearings on the lsd and pinion as was a bit late and didn't want to annoy the neighbours

Nothing major or obvious to report.....unfortunately! I was hoping to come across something but it didnt happen.

Only thing I found was Input bearing opposite side to crownwheel feels a little rough but nothing major, although under tension its worse. I think the collar moved and it lost the spot weld. That got chewed up and got into the bearing as slight bits of metal filings on the bearing case.

Also under the crown wheel where it bolts to the lsd there was a bit off metal debris, crown wheel too running tight to the pinion, worn clutch plates in the lsd? On closer inspection I think the backlash may have been too tight previously. There is a decent amount of wear on the pinion and the crown ( as pictured, red is the curve i have when should be more like the green line ) looks like the pinion has been digging in too far. Didn't bother with engineering blue as I've ordered a new crown wheel and pinion....but not the same size

Done a lot of calculations and I've decided to go brave and go with a 4.7 cwp. On multiple calculations I work out I currently have a top speed of 175-180mph which is ridiculous . Not that it would get there but can you imagine doing that speed in a car that has no windscreen haha!
With a 4.7 I should be able to hit between 140-145mph at 8500rpm in 6th which is more than I would need on track, or the ones I will be using. Going from the 4.1 to 4.7 i should see a decent acceleration gain. While it won't be suited to all tracks it will for most.

I plan to swap out the gearbox next with the spare i have as the grind from 3rd to 4th is a bit annoying and I will be using more gears with the new cw&p. Plus the release bearing is noisy so will be nice to get that fixed.

Will update as things arrive and progress.

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Looks more like 0.015 when viewed straight on

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Thanks Clive

I have new bearings and washers here so can press them on. Thinking about it the score marks are probably just where the collar was pressed on the shaft and I may not have been completely smooth.

The shaft bearing felt smooth with no play prior to removing it so not convinced it was the collar I could hear as I only noticed the noise under cruising conditions.

Just checked the backlash and its too high despite feeling OK. Its around 0.015, think it should be between 0.005-0.007, need to double check this to confirm

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Its got some pretty substantial score marks on the inside? Its a tight fit on the shaft, would need to press it on to get it back to where it should have been

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So set about getting the diff out today.

Drained the diff oild which has done approx 250 miles and a few laps of Combe but noting too hard. Its minging and very metallic so thinking somethings let go

Offside shaft wasn't playing ball and when it finally came out it left the bearing and collar in the axel. Bit of heat and persistence it came out.

Managed to remove the diff by leaving the shocks still attached and tilting it down.

So diff is out, nothing obviously wrong. Backlash and preload both feel good. Turns nice and freely with no odd noises or crunching.

I'm starting to wonder if the wheel bearing collar had separated and that was the metallic slapping noise I could hear?

There is metal swarf where the half shafts go into the diff.

Just eating some much needed food then going out to have a proper look at the shaft and collar to see if I can see anything obvious.



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Yeah im going to change both half shafts and bearings anyway. If I remove the prop bolts, radius arms each side and panhard rod im hoping i can lower front of the axel down away from the prop to allow the diff to come out. Otherwise I'll have to get some extra hands and take the whole axel out through a wheel arch

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Could an SSV valve stuck closed cause me any overheating/limp mode issues? It was hard to turn by hand before I cleaned it, now its silky smooth and free moving. Aldo could this cause troublesome starting issue as I have hasmd a couple of random hard to start situations. The other times I could leave it a week and it would fire straight up. If the ssv was stuck open would that hinder startup?

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Had a helping hand from my new furlough friend, chavy  thatchers

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