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Messages - Doz_FD3S

#1
Cheers guys, ideally I do want to keep it standard really. To the point that once this is sorted I'm going to try find a stock steering wheel and front lip. Not a fan of the carbon fibre stuff personally.

Hear what your saying but I don't want to let it defeat me. I don't use it every day and it won't get used much If at all in the winter so there's no rush. I'll make sure I'm happy I've exhausted everything I can check and test myself. If this comes to no success then I'll give hayward rotary or someone a call. They're not too far from me.

I'm trying to get hold of a smoke tester to check for boost leaks. I'll double check the actuators etc again, agree it's totally plausible for replaced parts to be at fault. I'm also going to check the loom from solenoids back to ecu plug. Generally just making sure I've deffo exhausted all of my capability.

As suggested above the 1996+ boost system differs in a few ways from earlier cars so I don't have boost pills.

I'll keep you all posted with further developments!

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#2
Yeah been through all the info online. Tested all solenoids with a power probe and checked flow. Didn't check the flow for the ones in the valve block so could re-visit that. Triple checked that the one way valves where the right way round.

Only iffy one that's yet to be changed is the fuel purge valve. Can't see How this would give a boost issue though as it's failed closed and there's a one way valve between it and the intake.

I can't hear a boost leak but worth testing all the intercooler too. I've replaced all the silicone joiner hoses and clams as I didn't like the blue ones that where on there.

Checking all the loom for continuity back to the ecu is worthwhile for piece of mind. Can't rule anything out with a 21yr old car I suppose.




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#3
Hmm yeah it's an odd one. Although the times in that video where it's making around 0.4 bar, I'm not just holding back at that, it's all it'll give! Then lift off, tip back in and I  (sometimes) get more boost again.

It still has the cat in. I was going to change the fuel filter as part of a service anyway.

I just don't understand why before changing the valve block I got atleast primary boost repeatably and now I more often than not get the 0.4 bar.

Valve block is new genuine mazda and I tested all the solenoids.

I checked all the turbo outlets as part of having it all apart.

Also checked the ecu that's deffo stock. Tempted to get the multimeter out and check all the wiring to the solenoids etc is good.

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#4
https://youtu.be/qFdFgnKxew8

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#5
I'll try and get the vid up to demonstrate but basically it sits at 0.4 bar now regardless of rpm. I can lift off and tip in to sometimes get primary but when that happens it spikes up to over 0.8 so I feather it to try and maintain 0.7 ish but once it goes past 5k it fades off and feels hesitant with it. Almost like a rev limmiter but way softer. Fuel cut?

I need to compress the video to get it up here but it explains it alot easier.

When I first got the car primary boost was good but now since changing vac lines and replacing faulty parts it seems worse!

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#6
Back to head scratching im affraid. No joy.

Got a video of the boost I'll see if I can attach it.

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#7
I'm on it now. Just changing the last few vacuum/boost lines I can find before I put it back together. Taking some time as without the various ancillarys off the engine it's a right pain to get to!

Hopefully have it back together today if not nearly there.

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#8
Yeah I'll have a mooch once it's back together as I can't get the pass door open the way it's parked in the garage at the mo.

Will go steady on the first drive & keep an eye on the boost. Hoping everything is normal!

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#9
Yeah good shout. Once I've got the turbos working properly I'll record what the boost is doing across the rev range and see if it's normal or not. If not I'd like to understand why not and see if that can be rectified. Understand breathing mods will naturally increase boost slightly but I wouldn't have thought a mazdaspeed cat back and a panel filter would have that significant effect.

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#10
Yeah that's true. Other than a load of stale old vacuum/boost lines the only parts that I've found to be faulty are:

-Stock blow off valve,
-charge control valve,
-fuel system purge valve.

So hopefully this ccv is the last chunk of the puzzle and sorts it out and I get some reliable twin turbos!

Once this is sorted I'll get all the fluids changed, new plugs and hopefully have chance for some good drives before winter sets in and the roads start getting gritted.

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#11
Evening. Yes thank you very much all here in one piece! Drop me a text or something 07827814633 I need to send you some monies!

Removed the old one tonight. Bit of a bugger to get all that off in situ!

Hopefully I'll have some time at the weekend to get it on and start getting the car back together.

It does have a 99 spec Y pipe on it from what I can tell.

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#12
Cheers nice one

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#13
Cheers guys, yeah I think the rear half with the valve is the same but the front half changes to remove the rubber joiner by the looks of it.

I try to remain methodical, I'm an automotive engineer by trade so you'd hope so Ha!

Yeah hopefully this will be it. Atleast I've replaced all the hoses and tested everything in the process. Will be glad to experience that 2nd turbo!

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#14
nice one I'll let you know once I've got it

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#15
That would be awesome!



Pop your PayPal in there too when you send it I'll gladly cover postage and pay the going rate for the part!


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