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Just had one of the rear wheel bearings changed on this so no more droning, if anyone is interested in a usable FC Vert, let me know!

Hi sorry I don't have a spare set of warning lights I'm afraid!

Quick update, I am now also offering the car without the RAYS wheels, MOMO steering wheel, HSD coilovers, AEM gauges and Alpine head unit for £3000

Will be on the standard 15" BBS wheels again and will have the OEM steering wheel fitted if this is the case

I'm reducing this to £3500 now as I'd really like to get a quick sale, just reply or send me a message if any interest at all happy to answer any questions about the car

[£4000ono]

Not something I really wanted to do but I've had to rationalise my car projects somewhat so the RX7 has to go!

I've had the car for just over two years now, bought back in Dec 2015, in that time its been totally reliable to me and has served as my daily driver for a fair amount of that time!

The previous owner had it since around 1999 and had the engine rebuilt at RX motors in the year 2000 at around 99k miles or so from memory, the car is now on 127k miles and starts and runs well.

A brief summary of bits I've fixed/modified in the time I've owned it:

New clutch slave and master cylinders and braided line
Pipercross panel air filter
NGK plug leads
(serviced by myself as required)
Tidied and reinstated factory audio wiring
Alpine head unit installed
Removed old dead aftermarket immobiliser
Fitted OEM carpet mats
Fitted Racing Beat decat exhaust
Fitted Mazdaspeed front, Ohlins rear coilovers
Fitted Turbo II front lip
Repaired roof mechanism
Fitted AEM Boost, Volt and Wideband gauges
Air pump removed, double belt alternator pulley fitted
Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump fitted
Knight Sports FCD fitted
RAYS Volk Racing CV Pro Wheels refurbed and fitted
New brake discs and pads all round, new calipers on the rear
Fixed drivers door handle mech (changed a spring)
Had rust in both sills cut out and replaced with fresh metal


The car isn't without its issues, I try to be fair and list as many as I am aware of so there aren't hidden surprises:

The windscreen has a crack in the bottom corner, it got through the last MOT but has grown a bit since then
The drivers side A pillar has some rust on it, I think its still surface but haven't poked it too much to be honest
The suspension is tired and knocks on the bump stops on big bumps (I have a brand new set of HSD Dualtech coilovers that will go with the car)
The cold idle needs looking at, sometimes its fine, sometimes the car tries to idle too low before realising and bumping it back up, once warm it usually idles bang on.
The paint is a bit faded in areas
Roof has seen better days and is torn in the usual FC vert place
Boost gauge has stopped reading, think it needs a sensor
One of the (I think) rear wheel bearings has started getting noisy
Drivers seat base bolster has partially collapsed


So thats a quick overview of my car for sale, I've got a build thread here: http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/184904/1989-mazda-rx-vert-sale  if you fancy reading in more detail

I also have some parts to go with the car; the original steering wheel, tonneau cover for the roof, a JDM ECU with rtek 1.7 chip fitted, spare coil packs and AFM etc.

Price wise I'm after £4000ono, the car has MOT until the 24th of July. I'm located in Bedworth, Warwickshire

Some pics should appear below

Cheers for the replies guys, has put my mind at ease somewhat!

The car was off the road for pretty much all of the first half of last year as I started doing an exhaust change and supporting mods which ended up getting left for quite a while..

But since October or so, its been my daily driver, about 40miles round trip to work everyday so it does get a decent run out

Still running the standard OMP, no premix. Never really thought about putting any premix in, did a bit of reading on oil back when I first got it but saw so much conflicting opinions out there I thought it safest just to stick with the OMP for now!


I've still got a couple little jobs I'd like to sort on it so it won't be sold straight away, sills were cut out and welded before Christmas so thats the worst of the rust sorted at least

Hi guys, am after some advice and opinions please

Bascially I've had my Turbo Vert for just over 2 years now, and lately its ended up being my daily driver as my actual daily decided to have some engine troubles (1995 BMW 5 series, yeah I know, fancy that having the engine issues out of the two!  )

I like using it daily, its a lovely drive, but I've got other car projects to sort and 20-ish mpg isn't really cutting it for me as a daily. I put it up for sale a couple of months ago and got a compression test done for a potential buyer, the results came back as thus:





Being a bit on the low side, these put off the potential buyer but I've just been using the car. It starts and drives fine and I've been all over the country over the winter recently seeing family and friends without it missing a beat.


Now I'm still fairly resigned to the fact that I'm going to have to sell it and probably take a bit of a hit on the price because of the compression, but a part of me also wants to keep it, which leads to thoughts of engine rebuilds...



So after all that longwinded back story, is there value in going for a pre-emptive rebuild based on the fact that its looking a bit tired, or is it just as well to wait until it actually breaks down, then go for a rebuild?

I'm expecting the cost difference probably won't be much as its the same labour involved, just the potential of more parts to be damaged if I waited until the engine broke down I guess?


Sorry for rambling on a bit there, I hope it illustrates the scenario I find myself in!

Have a couple of pics of the car as it stands as well

Right so my generic spring which I bought wasn't quite the right size and ultimately didn't work..

However, someone on another forum had a brainwave and linked me this https://www.mx5parts.co.uk/door-lock-release-spring-mk1-p-1891.html

Turned up today and it looks as though the MX-5 uses the exact same spring



So handy thing to remember for anyone who may have this issue in future

Cheers chaps, well I've measured it up and got a generic replacement on order, hopefully it shall do the job I'll report back in here how I get on

Well I found the spring, but unfortunately one of the hook ends has snapped off it



What are the chances of me finding another?.. Think I may have to adapt a generic one and hope the tension is close enough to work

Ah thats perfect! That definitely explains the issue I'm having, thank you very much

I just hope I can find that spring now and its still in a usable condition...

Made some progress on it today, managed to get the door card off with the door still shut and got my hand in to manipulate the mechanism so the door does now open

The odd thing is, if you pull up on the handle with the door locked, then go to unlock the car, the key won't turn all the way and the door won't open again, so I have to reach in and move the bit in this pic with the red arrow



After which I can then turn the key, unlock and open the door. So needs a bit more investigation, I think ultimately I'll probably have to pull the mech out and have a proper look at it on the bench, see if anything is bent or broken

I don't know with absolute certainly about the availability of floor panels, but I know when I had the sills done on my vert recently, they had to fabricate the panels as replacements weren't available off the shelf so I'd say its likely the same issue with floor panels

I'm hoping someone might be able to help me with a recent issue with my FC convertible..

Went to unlock it after work one day a week or so ago and while the lock turned, the drivers door won't open. The passenger side unlocked fine but it feels as though the drivers lock won't turn enough to disengage the lock.

I've taken the door speaker out and am able to get my hand in and manipulate the rod that goes from the interior lock/unlock switch to the lock mechanism. I can pull it locked, but when pushing it to unlock it feels as though theres some resistance, the switch won't stay up in the fully unlocked position

Has anyone else had a similar issue to this and can offer any advice? Ideally I'd get the door card off but it doesn't look as though its going to be particularly easy/possible with the door closed

Cheers

Yes that's OK for either the TII or the EGI, its the master cylinders that are different

I don't believe thats correct? I fell foul of the Turbo/NA Slave cylinder differences when I changed them on my Turbo last year



Had to take that one back and get another one!