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17x,xxx - had a rebuild or porting job before i got it, and a replacement engine about 30k ago (can\'t remember, had it so long now). It was at either 70 or 100k when I got it.

Yep, seems to have worked - and my overheating problem has (fingers crossed) gone away too. Seems a bit of a problem if the OMP takes out the ECU when it fails...

yep, the ecu is fried. R10 and T800 have given up their magic smoke...
i have a spare, but I\'m reluctant to just plug it in in case there is another fault...

hmmm... replaced the omp, but now if I ground the check connector, the fault light stays on constantly. (and i still have limp mode)

Quick update - 27,30 33. OMP and 2 solenoid valve emissions thningies. Have spares of all, so will have a play tomorrow...

Doesn\'t sound the same, this isn\'t a slight tremble, it\'s a complete loss of power, like the ignition is cut (even worse than running on one rotor as I\'ve had with a 1st gen and a broken dizzy) - and it only happens under load, not whilst stationary - makes diagnosis kind of hard... I\'m tempted to change things or fake sensors just to see what I effect.

No, no cat. Not much rattling...
I was wondering if it might be a faulty knock sensor, since it does feel a bit like overboost. Looks like the check light is simple, will give that a try.

TPS is something I\'ve not checked (and have spare). Can I check the fault codes without a special tool? (I never managed to find the instructions anywhere). ECU swap is planned too.

Don\'t think it\'s limp mode, it\'s too dangerous at junctions!

sean

I\'m nearly back... Been doing some tidying up ready to get my turbo II back on the road, and I\'ve discovered that what seemed to be an intermittent problem seems to be more permanent

Engine is stock, except for exhaust (no cat), and not done a lot of miles since replacement 5 years ago. Starts no problem, and sometimes drives fine. At the moment, once i get above 3000 rpm, i get a complete loss of power - feels like the ignition can\'t cope with the fuel. Actually, it\'s not the rpm, it seems to be manifold pressure related. Negative pressure, it\'s fine. As soon as pressure reaches 0, the power cuts out - making it impossible to maintain more than about 50mph on the flat.
I tried disconnecting the air pressure sensor - no change.
I tried cleaning the earthing connections - no change.

Short of swapping out all the parts for spares (already done the coils), does this ring any bells, or anyone got any other suggestions?

thanks,

sean

Finally got my vert back on the road :driving , and observed that it\'s got a slight overheating problem (in traffic, using the heater fixes it). First thought was that it\'s the viscous fan thingy, which I can replace from my spares kit, or maybe the rad is gunked up, or an airlock. Anyone got any suggestions for other things that might cause this? Engine is fairly new (10k miles ish)

Sean

i got some t2 rims you could have for cheap mate. they need a bloody good clean tho.

Drop me an email at tshoulihane@hotmail.com - sounds like they\'ll be good enough!

Thanks,

Sean

Welding a wheel that\'s got an old fracture in it seemed a bit suspect to me. Any experience or suggestions (north london area ideally!)

are the cab wheels a different offset? My old ones were 17x7.5", 35ET

They were momo, and I don\'t think they\'re made any more (dated \'93, and maybe 11600 is a model code). The car is a cab - and I sold a set of cab wheels last year

I discovered last night why I was having problems with one of my tyres going flat:
http://sean-houlihane.fotopic.net/p40785696.html

Has anyone got a pair or two of old wheels that they don\'t need any more? I am guessing that even if welding this were safe, it would be too expensive.

Sean