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Hi Dave, cracking collection. Have you looked at buying in Ireland, cracking 1999 black FD for sale in Dublin, not on Done deal yet. Guy selling it is called Dizz, might recognise him from some Irish forums.

Looked into this a bit more and it\'s not an uncommon problem apparently, from what I\'ve read people say it\'s usually either the ignition switch or the TNS relay. It might be the TNS relay since you still have functioning headlights, as far as I can see that\'s the main difference between the relay ans the ignition switch being faulty. I read this on another forum :

"The ignition switch/harness is the main electrical feed to the  under-dash fuse box.  Virtually all systems have been affected (i.e.,  dashboard lights, tail lights, gear lights, and radio); therefore, it  must involve a major trunk line".

They say the easiest way to check is to make sure the fuses are/aren\'t getting power with a multimeter and if they aren\'t then that\'s likely the culprit. Hope this helps, I know electrical faults can be a major pain in the arse so I hope it\'s as simple as one of these.

Thanks for taking so much time to think about this. That\'s a great help. Im away all week so will def be checking this the weekend

I honestly couldn\'t tell you, I don\'t know anything about the FD wiring, just what I thought if all the wiring is good then it could easy be the only variable that has changed. Yeah a bad ground can cause all sorts of stupid problems, so could be. I\'d check everything is connected properly for sure, and as you say grounds. Any blown fuses?

No blown fuses inside or in the engine bay.  I hope its something simple!

If everything is the same as it was, bar the capacitors, is it possible it\'s them? Are they polarity sensitive and fitted the right way? Right value? Or maybe even solder shorted to something or a bad solder join (I\'m assuming they\'re soldered on to s pcb?) Not trying to bad mouth workmanship or anything, these things happen all the time, just to me if they were working and everything else is in order I\'d check the caps first.

I didn\'t do the work myself so I can\'t answer that really, wasn\'t there for the job being done either. It\'s quite possible its something to do with the odometer but could this effect the power supply for the radio, tail lights, horn and other items on the list above. I think its something unrelated to the odometer work done. A friend suggested looking at the ignition but there doesn\'t appear to be anything disconnected here.

Could it be something like an earth?

Is it plugged in.

I couldn\'t say for sure. Everything worked before I removed the clocks 2 weeks ago and the dimmer switch was never touched so don\'t understand how it would effect it, particularly things like the tail lights and brake lights not working for example. How is the dimmer linked?

Dimmer switch ?

What about the dimmer switch?

Went back looking at it, can\'t see any damaged ignition wires either

A week ago I had the capicators replaced on my clocks to attempt to fix my odometer (didn\'t work)!

I refitted the clocks and now the following are not working, which were prior to removing the clocks!!!

Indicators (relay clicks on and off quickly but no lights working)
Radio
Parking lights
Tail lights
Brake lights
Interior lights
Light for ignition
Lights for door locks
Lights on the clocks (but odometer back light does work)

What is working now, from what I can see so far:
All gauges and warning lights on the dash
Headlights
Reversing lights

I\'ve removed the clocks twice to ensure all the connectors are in correctly, checked all interior and engine bay fuses!!!!

What am I missing?

Those Mazdaspeed shocks with external reservoirs look very interesting.

When you are next under the car, could you have a look at the identification labels on them and post the info. up here? Or even better take some pics...

I was under yesterday,  pity. The springs are Swift springs  pretty expensive I hear. Ya I\'ll get the markings no prob. I plan giving them a clean down and new dust boots

If its been decatted watch yourself it doesnt blow itself to bits if its still standard ecu

I\'ve seen that mentioned a few places recently. Why does the decay affect the 13b so much when standard? Would a boost controller be advisable to prevent boost spikes? Car hasn\'t been driven except to drive it home the week I bought it.

Car is on standard ECU and has an exhaust. The peak boost so far is .5 bar according to my boost gauge (records boost peak)

Here is my 1994 RX-7 R2 Special Edition which I recently purchased



The car is not without it\'s flaws though so a few weeks ago my project begun...

The first small issue to attack was the heat light. This was on constantly due to a decat being fitted.



I removed the interior to get at the wiring for the cat temp sensor and while at it gave the car a good hoover, something it badly needed. To fix the issue with the warning light I joined the two wires coming off the block connector together like so...




Hey presto, no heat light issue...


Next job to be tackled was the odometer. This wasn\'t working so I removed the clocks following a guide on another forum and on Wednesday got a guy who\'s a genius with circuit boards to replace capicators and he repaired cracked connections. This weekend I\'ll be refitting so fingers crossed



After this I just did a bit of looking around the car. The rear reflectors were "tinted" using insulation tape so removed this crap






The other, yet untouched, issues are:
Not boosting correctly. Boosting to about .5 bar only
Exhaust is hitting the body, think its the towing eye
Need to replace the headlight covers. Driver side one came off when the seller was bringing the car to me to view and the other is carbon wrapped and looks tacky
Mirrors are carbon wrapped. To be removed and painted
99 spec front lip doesn\'t fit right so gonna try a standard lip and see what I like better
Paint on the passenger wing and front bumper is poor.

Lots to keep me occupied!!!!









A  week later did some more work,some mixed emotions!

First started with refitting the clocks after having capacitors replaced and cracked connections repaired but unfortunately, still not working :smt013  :smt013

On the plus side, discovered my wheels are Rays Engineering wheels, 17 x 9 rears and 17 x 8 front wheels.


Exhaust is Fujitsubo


Coilovers are MazdaSpeed (which I already knew) but they\'ve fancy external reservoirs so not just a basic coilover!


So last Friday I return home after being away on work all week and have a few bits waiting for me. I bought, from gav240z, 2 silver headlight covers and a standard front lip as I\'ve a 1999 spec one one at present. The driver side headlight cover is a fiberglass copy but will do the job for now! The lip is currently painted silver but plan to paint it black and fit and see which I rather, standard or 99 spec front lip!

Also in the post box were 5 Viton Check valves from Dale Clark in the states.

Last but not least, the all important log book!

That\'s it for now,more this weekend I hope!!!

What you gonna do to it?

Drive it!!!!!

No plans for power, keeping it OEM looking and just maintain it. Spec is basic engine wise, filters, fujitsubo exhaust and decat.

Hi all,

Just signed up this week  so saying hello.  Just bought a 94 FD a few weeks ago so looking forward to getting it close to 100% and enjoying it. Project thread to follow.....!

Paul