Messages

got some 12.9\'s off ebay

zinc coat as opposed to plated as 12.9 plated bolts can suffer from embrittlement in the plating process

Random question,

Mazda cannot find the brake caliper to diff bolts, they are m10x20. I assume they are high grade 10.9 bolts but can\'t find them anywhere!

What are people using?

tim

Managed to get the right one through mazda.

Still can\'t believe that 3mm isolated diff plate to protect the brake line. Looks like a massive after thought... weird when the car has been in production for 5 years at the time.

It is almost if they had a few failures and ran out of time so thought lets put on a really thick plate and isolate it so there is no change of it braking!

Cheers for the reply,

Mazda cannot find me the part number for the chassis to diff brake hose. Anyone know?

Tim

Hi,

Been replacing all the brake lines and the rear drivers side one from the tee-piece on the diff to the caliper goes through an odd cover / plate that bolts to the diff in three places with isolated mounts.

What an earth is this for? Doesn\'t seem to do anything but maybe protect the brakeline? Can\'t imagine why they isolated it as it is too thick to be a noise issue (usual cause for isolation).

Also noticed a weird pipe welded to the rear muffler can. Looks like its been cut short. No idea what this is for either?

Tim

Hello,
 
I reckon that the elford is running about 70°C when warmed up fully. This puts the temp gauge sitting about 1/4 up (temp measured with thermocouple).
 
Looking at the information on this site 70°C is in the low region but about where mazda run race engines or where people often run to keep thing cool. My question is what temps are people running on there elfords? Do they have a low temp stat fitted or is mine just old and leaking?
 
Thanks,
 
Tim

Just sent the rears off to biggred, they were in pretty poor condition and it failed the old MOT.

Anyone know how much effort the brakes should be putting in on the test or what the ideal brake balance should be?

Ahhh ok,

Left back switch is for the rear wiper. Right switch does nothing. Areial is wired to the head unit so I can use this one for the fog.

Brilliant. Just need to find a nice set of cibies for that elford look.

On the centre section below the gearknob there are four switches.

Top two are windows. Bottom left is rear wiper. What is the bottom right? Seemingly does nothing on my RX.

Tim

Thanks for the replys, the 55 profile would just lower the gearing by 3%, would probably not change the steering feel.

Seen some falkens online that look OK, not that exciting though

So..

Tyres on the FB are a bit old and looking for some new ones. Currently running the standard 205/60R14\'s.

Looking around the web I cant really find any decent replacements as this is an odd size.

R888\'s come in 205/55R14\'s which are around 20mm lower profile or -3%.

Anyone run 55\'s on their FB? Got any other recommendations for tyres?

Tim

Gidday John,

Thanks for the reply. I am down in Brighton so not terribly local. The needle has a code printed on it so you have to disassemble it to get to it. Probably not worth while.

Had some success today by putting the original spring back in the carb and changing the damper oil from 20w to 3in1. I can now easily set the idle speed and it responds much more nicely.

Going to get it back on the CO meter hopefully tomorrow and try to set the mixture to 7%. Would love to know what yours runs on the meter as a comparison. Might even stretch to chucking mine on a dyno and get a good AFR reading through the engine speed range.

Cheers,

Tim

Hi,
 
Well the SU is rebuilt and fitted but struggling to tune it. Spoke to Tim White at RX motors and he advised the following:

• Set to approx 7% CO at idle (massively high!)
• Take it for a drive for fine tuning, apparently what elfords would do was to run full load in 3rd gear, high rpm and lift off / de-clutch, if the engine fell to idle and stalled it needed to be more rich, if it did not stall you could lean off

The problem I am having is that I cannot get the CO to stay stable at idle. Once set I rev it up and it runs massively rich.
 
As per the above post I am running the BFS needle that was what was fitted before the rebuild (although a new needle). The replacement \'green\' spring was also slighlty longer than the one I had fitted. Apart from this the main jet, seals and damper were all new. It ran OK before rebuild but there was room for improvement.
 
So I think there are two possible things going wrong
[LIST=1]

• I am letting it sit at idle for too long and fuel is gathering / pudelling in the turbo compressor, when I rev it up the fuel is sucked through causing it to go rich
• The spring / damper is too stiff so that the slider is not moving up fast enough when I rev it up causing it to go rich

Planning to refit the old spring and damper this weekend and have a go at retuning, also going to make sure to rev it up to clear any fuel out of the compressor every 60s or so.
 
Any thoughts / ideas / comments appreicated. Spent four hours trying to tune it so far and still nowhere near right.
 
Thanks,

Where is the rx7 friendly garage? I am in Hove..

Well finally rebuilt the SU and found a few horrors including a machine screw replaced with a wood screw and also a missing seal. The carb also had a BFS needle fitted as standard and as recommended by SU.

Got some new plugs in as well so have to muck around with the mixture a bit to get it running better. The plan was to lean it off as much as possible then go back rich 1/4 of a turn or so.

It seems people are running really rich (like 11 to 1). Seems excessive to me. Does anyone have any actual data on how these carbs / engines should be set up (afr or co)??