Messages

unfortunately not mate, im trying to make up a harness adapter but i need specific pin outs. thanks though

Page F2-8 tells you what go\'s where.

hey guys, im looking for an ecu pinout diagram for a s5 fc3s. i cant seem to find anything out there, does anyone on here have one or a link to one???


cheers

Any help?

http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_gen/Mazda%20Service%20Manuals/1989-91%20Factory%20Service%20Manual/04b_fuel_and_emission_control_systems_turbo.pdf

Is this any help?

http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_gen/

If you go to section "14 Body", then "Windshield" it shows you an exploded drawing.

............. also new rad cap from work!

I was thinking along the lines that the coolant wasn\'t being pressurised and hence would boil at 100degc.
 
I saw this many moons ago on an Astra where the bypass spring in the cap was goosed so the system could never pressurise and would just over heat like a Bi_ch!

Are you using the same radiator cap you have always used, or the one you got with your new rad?

Tiddles might be speaking about Rotaryart maybe?
A vendor may be banned, but cant see why we are not allowed to say the vendors name, its not swearing and not a police state this forum LOL

Are you allowed to say why?
 
I was thinking about ordering something from Rotaryart, but now I\'ve got little alarm bells ringing in my head.

emailed...
 
completely unrelated.. kinda.. but makes me think of this. so funny!
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sv5iEK-IEzw
 
if u can reply where about you are also as i will be travelling along a303/ m3 to london sat so might be able to drop along the way.

 
Yip still very funny :rollin
 
Thanks for the offer of dropping it off, but I\'m slightly further north than London....like a 7hr drive further north :Laugh
 
I\'ve e-mailed you anyway.
 
:cheers

Haha great email address!!

Cool huh?. :D

Nice one mate. It\'s actually the drivers side I\'m after
 
Are we talking original black cloth ?
 
Drop me a line and we could possibly sort something out: Darthvader at blueyonder dot co dot uk.
 
:cheers

Thanks for the suggestions guys.
 
Unfortunately he sold the seats to someone else.

Hi all
 
I need to have a couple of FC seats picked up and delivered to me (400/450 miles), and never having anything as remotely as large as two seats transported before I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations on a cheap courier.
 
Cheers

Just taken out the seats on my FC and they are 1.25

Any chance of removing this double post?
 
Dunno what happened
 
:cheers

Got a little bit more done, but not as much as I\'d hoped.
 
Some of my "retail therapy" arrived the other day:
 

 
Some POR15 paint, which I\'ve never used before, but the general feeling on the net is that its the dogs danglies, and my polyurethane bush kit http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=11%2E18101
 
I removed the fuel filler pipe and as per sods law the mounting bolts sheared. This isn\'t the easiest place in the world to get into, but I bored them out using a small rightangle drill.
 

 
 
With the filler assembly off, I removed the clamp ring for a small experiment.
 

 
Having never used electrolysis to remove rust before I thought I\'d give it a go.
So you need one battery charger, a plastic bucket, 5 litres of water, 500g of washing soda and a piece of sacrificial steel (not stainless). The negative goes to the rusty item, and the positive to the sacrificial piece.
 

 
Mix up the water and washing soda and drop in the metal work, although make sure it doesn\'t touch. Turn on the charger and leave for 12 hours.
 

 
 
When you take it out the rust just flakes away. Give it a good scrub with a wire brush and ...Hey Presto!
 

 
I must say I was quite impressed.
 
 
 
However I wasn\'t really impressed with this though:
 

 
 
When I removed the underseal and paint from the spare wheel well there was some heavy surface rust. To make matters worse the bottom of the wheel well was like a tea bag, so it looks like I will be doing some welding after all : :reallymad
 

 
 
 
I\'ve also hit a small snag so I\'m hoping someone with more experience can chip in.
When removing the hub from the trailing arm on the passenger side of the car, the large washer was on the front side of the lug, and with a bit of a wiggle the hub came off no problem.
 

 
 
However, On the drivers side the washer is on the rear of the lug which means I now have zero "wiggle factor" so I can\'t get the bolt bush over the sholder of the lug (Does that sound as clear as mud.)
 

 
I know the bolt bush hasn\'t moved, because it\'s the same as the passenger side. The only difference I can see is the placement of the large washer which doesn\'t give you enough movement to slip the bush over the lug.
 
Any ideas?...or am I just being really stupid :o

Got a little bit more done, but not as much as I\'d hoped.
 
Some of my "retail therapy" arrived the other day:
 

 
Some POR15 paint, which I\'ve never used before, but the general feeling on the net is that its the dogs danglies, and my polyurethane bush kit http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=11%2E18101
 
I removed the fuel filler pipe and as per sods law the mounting bolts sheared. This isn\'t the easiest place in the world to get into, but I bored them out using a small rightangle drill.
 

 
 
With the filler assembly off, I removed the clamp ring for a small experiment.
 

 
Having never used electrolysis to remove rust before I thought I\'d give it a go.
So you need one battery charger, a plastic bucket, 5 litres of water, 500g of washing soda and a piece of sacrificial steel (not stainless). The negative goes to the rusty item, and the positive to the sacrificial piece.
 

 
Mix up the water and washing soda and drop in the metal work, although make sure it doesn\'t touch. Turn on the charger and leave for 12 hours.
 

 
 
When you take it out the rust just flakes away. Give it a good scrub with a wire brush and ...Hey Presto!
 

 
I must say I was quite impressed.
 
 
 
However I wasn\'t really impressed with this though:
 

 
 
When I removed the underseal and paint from the spare wheel well there was some heavy surface rust. To make matters worse the bottom of the wheel well was like a tea bag, so it looks like I will be doing some welding after all : :reallymad
 

 
 
 
I\'ve also hit a small snag so I\'m hoping someone with more experience can chip in.
When removing the hub from the trailing arm on the passenger side of the car, the large washer was on the front side of the lug, and with a bit of a wiggle the hub came off no problem.
 

 
 
However, On the drivers side the washer is on the rear of the lug which means I now have zero "wiggle factor" so I can\'t get the bolt bush over the sholder of the lug (Does that sound as clear as mud.)
 

 
I know the bolt bush hasn\'t moved, because it\'s the same as the passenger side. The only difference I can see is the placement of the large washer which doesn\'t give you enough movement to slip the bush over the lug.
 
Any ideas?...or am I just being really stupid :o