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Prof thanks for the response! I\'m afraid in my car the green solenoid is not turbo port related.. :xconfused

I\'m back and hopefully got my hands on a removed hardline assembly for a few mins, so I figured out the pipework lol.

It goes like this:

This is the final, correct layout.

So our green solenoid is for FPR control together with the orange one.. But what does it do?

First of all, does anyone know how a Fuel Pressure Regulator with 2 vac lines work? Should the two lines work as if the diaphragm is placed between them, I may have a clue..

Timmyc you have the dual vac FPR too, how did you deal with it?

Awaiting input..

So based on this update I made a new drawing..


Could it be something like this?

Thanks again..

HOLY THREAD REVIVAL!!!

Hello everyone!

I won\'t lie, I have made this topic originally on RX7club and we are curious to discover what all these you will see are and what they do..
Anyway, here is the post.. Sorry for it being too long. Please help!

I got down to replacing some of the cracked vacuum tubes in my rats nest this evening and I found out that I have 4 solenoids instead of the 3 mentioned in the FSM. The extra one is of green plug colour. My motor is an S5 Turbo2.

I searched and searched again the fora.. At first I thought that it had an S4 turbo nest fitted, but that was not the case, since I traced the green solenoid lines and they were not going to the exhaust mainfold (no flap in mine anyway). This solenoid had 3 lines connected instead of two. One was hardline T-ed to the FPR together with the Orange solenoid, one was coming under the UIM and one was running to something like a vacuum chamber. Yes, I also have that thing. It is located in the right side of the engine bay as we look at it, right behind the headlight and the coils.

I live in Europe, so that\'s a european model.. It originally was fitted with the N380 ECU, which I replaced. No clue if the new JDM ECU can handle this nest.

I was about to believe that I comprehended the nest, but now I\'m back to zero.  

OK so this is the green solenoid..

Please ignore the adjacent one, it is just a replacement I made for my faulty ACV switching solenoid..

This is the other side of it..

It certainly is not turbo port related.
The wastegate duty cycle solenoid is removed since I have an EBC. You can see its hardlines open.

Here you can see the T and the check valve for the vaccum chamber..


And here is the vacuum chamber itself..


Finally an overview:


I also made a drawing of what I think I found out so far, so that I can help you help me.   I may be wrong though..

Here it is:


Thanks for your time!

***UPDATE! If I saw correctly, my stock FPR has 2 vacuum lines, one before and one after the diaphragm, so maybe the green solenoid and the vacuum tank are connected to the extra port on the side of the injectors on the FPR? :Hammer

Dont disconnect the plugs. Horrible things may happen if you mix them up...
Just remove the EGI fuse from the engine bay\'s main fuse box.

Hello all!

I did some pulls today and recorded a crappy video of my gauges...

It seems that up to 0.7bar the AFR stays in the "oh sweet" levels, but after that it climbs quickly to the "oh ....!" levels!
I feel grateful that I didn\'t detonate... Or at least I think I didn\'t! :eek

Here is the video.
Any thought would be very welcome, as I don\'t have a clue of what might be the problem...
I have numerous fears. Is it maybe that my fuel pump is not fed correctly when on boost? Is it possibly that I was shipped the Low Pressure Walbro pump instead if the High one?
Or I\'m thinking if it\'s my ACV that possibly malfunctions and releases port air... Prior to the pulls, when idling my AFR was 16-17 due to the port air. Now, after the pulls it is 12-13, which means no more port air. OMG what happened in there under the UIM...
:flamed
Please shed some light to a n00b\'s boosting nightmare! :Hammer:Hammer:Hammer
:o

Thanks!

OK update, I removed the airpump belt and did 1-2 more pulls. AFRs still start to rise above 12:1 and thus I didn\'t push it. :2Confused

PS Sorry yiug412 for hi-jacking your old thread!

Hello all!

I did some pulls today and recorded a crappy video of my gauges...

It seems that up to 0.7bar the AFR stays in the "oh sweet" levels, but after that it climbs quickly to the "oh ....!" levels!
I feel grateful that I didn\'t detonate... Or at least I think I didn\'t! :eek

Here is the video.
Any thought would be very welcome, as I don\'t have a clue of what might be the problem...
I have numerous fears. Is it maybe that my fuel pump is not fed correctly when on boost? Is it possibly that I was shipped the Low Pressure Walbro pump instead if the High one?
Or I\'m thinking if it\'s my ACV that possibly malfunctions and releases port air... Prior to the pulls, when idling my AFR was 16-17 due to the port air. Now, after the pulls it is 12-13, which means no more port air. OMG what happened in there under the UIM...
:flamed
Please shed some light to a n00b\'s boosting nightmare! :Hammer:Hammer:Hammer
:o

Thanks!

You\'re most welcome! :cheers

Put that Walbro back on a relay before you do anything else!!

I have used the OEM relay for the fuel pump circuit that resides under the dash, behind the steering coloumn... Isn\'t that adequate for the current that Walbro requires?

Thanks for the once more accurate and immediate response!

I\'ll try some pulls today and maybe record a video of the wideband+boost meter+tach for cold-blood reference lol. (oldskool method haha, no datalogger)
:3gears-lh

Thank you!

I also found another layout of the manual here:
1990ownersmanual

OK I was also in search of one and it really took me ages to find and scan it. A friend, labros, had it and gave it to me... So I give it to you.
Here you go! :cheers

RX-7 FC3S-FC3C 1989-1991 Owner\'s Manual [by infernal and labros]



PS: Wish the member to have luck and fun with the car, and also to join us! :WaveBye

HOLY THREAD REVIVAL!!!

This really helped me, so I thought I should give it a bump, plus ask some questions... :Thumbs-up

I rewired my Walbro pump too, but did it in a different way... I just took the fuel pump feed wire from the relay under the dash that normally goes to the resistor in front of the airbox area, and connected it to the wire going back to the pump, actually bypassing the resistor/relay circuit. Is this a good move? I noticed the wire feeding the fuel pump relay (the one under the dash) from the fusebox (maybe?) is quite thin, but oh well... Now the Walbro sees 12.5 to 13V steadily on idle - not yet tested on boost.

And another thing.. I also upped the boost lately to 11.6psi (0.8bar).
I use the Walbro, an Access-Blitz chipped ECU, an HKS intake, a 3" single exhaust with an 100cpsi converter and a Blitz SS BOV; everything else is stock. Is this pressure safe?
My wideband shows 10.5-11 under acceleration with this boost, but under steady RPM and steady boost (11.6psi still) it raises to 12-12.5. Well, that\'s what I think, I was break-testing so it may not be accurate...

Dave does the Access-Blitz run the OMP? Where any models available that don\'t? My oil level seems too steady OMG...


Sorry for the looooooong post :o:o:o

Fantastic explanation - I read the FSM and really didn\'t understand it at all!
 
This gear marking compound - does it require the internals to be free of oil (as in clean) in order to work?

Hehe sometimes the FSM is ommiting valuable information and just sticks to the numbers... But for DIY numbers are inadequate!

As for the gear marking compound, I sprayed and wiped the ring gear (nothing else) with a bit of brake cleaner prior to applying the compound, just to be sure.
Also after I finished, I removed the leftovers of the compound with a soft copper brush and I flushed everything with the old diff oil I had removed before.

The compound makes small chips and I didn\'t feel like letting it sit inside. Some people tell me that they don\'t wipe it or clean it at all and there is no problem, but to me it feels wrong, especially for the torsen and the bearings. :Thumbs-up

The first three of your questions are answered in the first page of this thread.

As for the lining/marking points, after you install the diff and before you assemble the case, you need to set the backlash and tension. First you set the tension by screwing in the two rings and then you set the backlash by screwing both rings at the same amount towards the same direction. You go by the FSM. You will need a dial gauge (micrometer) and gear marking compound, to test and verify afterwards that you have it set correctly.

Basically what you are trying to do is keep the bearings under slight load to each other so that when the torque path changes (pinion to ring and ring to pinion) the carrier won\'t shock around. Backlash is set to ensure that the pinion and ring teeth mesh correctly, that is at the center of the area of each tooth.

This is a detailed how-to I had made in the past about how to replace the steering wheel... Btw the nut is 21mm.
Click!

The switches are together as an assembly with the instrument cluster. The cluster is held in place by means of 5 screws as mentioned by papercutout. You will need to disconnect 4 plugs after you detach the cluster, and it all comes off as 1 piece.

The turn signal lever and Cruise Control lever are held in place by 2 screws at the back. You will first need to undo the levers themselves in order to get clearance to get them out. They got a little screw in their inner elbows. The cruise control lever has some wires through it for the button and therefore can\'t be removed entirely.
The light and wiper cluster switches are held in place by two screws, one at the back and one at the bottom. You will need to get the buttons out first (pull them gently straight out) and also both the lever clusters.

BE VERY CAREFUL when reassembling the switches, as the instrument cluster plastic is very very very fragile and when it cracks, it turns into pieces. And that thing IS expensive!!