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He would as he was selling them i had a PFS that is the King of SMIC\'s and i replaced it with a Blitz FMIC and gained 15hp throughout the power band.

IC\'s are not all about keeping the IC close and the pipe volume down (it doesn\'t work like that) you want a quality core with next to no pressure drop across it. Cheap is BAD in the IC world.

BTW if Pip is doing any Custom work for you get a quote written in stone first, his Custom work does tend to get expensive.

I would do the Clutch, then at the same time fit all the other bits, decent service (Oil,Filter,decent plugs etc) then once all that is done Get it mapped. If the clutch is dodgy a decent power run will finish it off a treat If you fit the bits on a base map (the stock map the Apexi comes with) i would recommend you don\'t get the car on boost until mapped. The only mod i would have real issues with driving once fitted would be a Decat as the Target boost can be quite erratic (that\'s the one you pop your motor with if you aint careful on Twins)

As for oil etc, i like http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHELL-Helix-HX5-15w40-Engine-Oil-5-Litre-/300637246724?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item45ff605504 in my road car, Plugs are a bit of a personal thing but i\'d ring pip and ask his opinion before buying some, the Stocker plugs do a job but Race type plugs do that job better

O and btw scratch the XS IC from the list and buy a decent one, they are slightly better than stock but not in the same league as a greddy or PFS smic, then SMIC\'s are not in the same league as a FMIC Apexi GT,Blitz or Greddy FTW

Do you mean a Turbo to Downpipe gasket?? and is your car stock or Single turbo etc?

If it\'s stock Tim at Rx Motors is your best bet. http://www.rxmotors.co.uk/

LOL, Dude there is some thing really wrong if your even able to see a 525 in your mirrors let alone get beat by one

The rims won\'t be the problem, i was using stock rims for trackdays for a good while on twins with 340 at the fly as i like the unstaggered balance but i was using Yoko\'s. The stock rims are about the lightest rims for an FD you can get

The Tyres make a MONUMENTAL difference to an FD\'s handling and feel, i had Run flats on my fd for quite a while and thought the Handling was OK, but i went to 595 RSR Federals and its a different car. The tyres where one of the two things i changed that really made a night and day difference the other one was Brake pads, i had EBC\'s in and went to FERODO DS2500 granted they weren\'t cheap but makes such a difference to the way the brakes feel.  

If you find your self at WGT at any time have a chat with Pip, he\'s one of those guys who can drive an FD round the block and tell you what\'s wrong with it also the Geo service he does is well worth the money if its never had a geo.

If you say it steers its self when you go on and off the power make sure there isn\'t any wear in the Track control bushes (think thats where there called ).

Edd\'s you man. Worth having a chat with him

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81232

2.75" or 70mm Not 75mm / 3" i seem to remember on stockers. If you have 3" tubes you will need reducers.

They changed there format to do that car and Chav\'d it to make it look like a Mcc D\'s racer, Good promotion of the Fd??? Not so sure, you can\'t have that amount of BS and not have some rub off on the car.

I just loved how they showed the basics of Buying an FD so you don\'t get your fingers Burnt like Compression test AFTER!! you get it home (in Mikes words) to see if you have lost 5k
 
Pip should have wrote a speech down or some thing because Edd had obviously slept since he spoke to him........4lt 4 stroke

And!! NO 3 ROTOR AUDIO!!!!!!

Set up or not the Buyers Guide should have been Accurate!!

Painful, Fancy buying an FD without a Comp test then take it back to see if they have lost 5k?? Really??

4lt four stroke?? tbh they lost me when Mike was giggling like a school girl in a bone stock FD then the work of fantasy with the Buy/Sell section.

The Worse bit with out doubt!!! Two 3 Rotors and no audio of them on the track?? Seriously??

They say the best Jokes are the ones you have to explain :Hammer

Probably had the Rotors balanced but not the rotating assembly (two different things)

That said -8 in and -6 out would be ideal.

i had AN6 from swirlpot to pump. it ran lean as pump was trying too hard to soooook.
 
swirlpot to 044 should be 15mm (id 13mm)

Compared to what? I ran 400hp on a all -6 set up for about a year until i went for more power, i found the main issue with my set up was the tank pump, it ran dry every time i went round a sweeper on track days even though the Swirl pot kept fuel flowing to the main pump, which in turn meant the Intank pump died. The other thing with feed lines is keep them as short as possible, mine was 3" long.

There is of course the position problem, if you mount the pump higher than the tank/Swirl pot you will have feed problems (044 like to be Gravity fed) they like to be lower than the fuel tanks.

IMHO i\'d rather run an 044 with -6 lines than an 044 Intank (every thing gets map tweaks for anything that could alter fuel delivery or AFR anyway so thats no issue), the first track day you do (intank) will show you how bad the stock tank baffles are, i didn\'t need to look at the fuel gauge i could tell when i hit 1/2 a tank by the big Splutters on corners.

Try and keep the pump intake a size bigger than the outlet, so if you run a -6 out it needs to be -8 in (if that makes sense)

You can run a -6 feed on a road car just so long as its gravity fed (the swirl pot is higher than the pump) and your not looking to get every lph out of it. Its not ideal but it works.

Depending on placement of the reservoir the 2 stroke oil should be warmed by the heat radiating from the engine as it warms up.
Remember engine oil is also cold on initial start up too.
I would hazard a guess that cold pure 2T has a lower viscosity than say cold 15w40 (just guessing here)

The stock OMP is the benchmark its probably the only setup that has been thoroughly tested and set up correctly by Mazda (so lets say that works fine if all the components are in working order )

Don\'t forget that No one opens the car up cold, the engine is designed to get the oil up to operating temps as fast as possible and the OMP is designed to meter the engine oil correctly hot or cold via the stepper motor.